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Jim F

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    KRTS
  • Interests
    PL, IR, MEI
  • Model
    M20K A&P IA

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  1. Hi Skip, Four or more years ago, I saw someone post here a pic of a Lycoming with a crack in the case right under the lifting eye. At the time, I thought the only possible reason for the crack was jacking the nose of the aircraft with the engine lifting eye. Jim
  2. Hi Wingover, I don't have the part number but you can measure the tube OD and the opening in the baffling. Then search the web or a hardware store. When you get the new grommet just cut and roll it in place. Jim
  3. Agreed Ross, just my 2 cents
  4. Hi Shadrach, I have seen problems with CHT cooling and the only thing found on inspection was detached seal from the aluminum baffle. Reattached and the CHT came down. My take away was that the airflow is dynamic inside the cowl during flight and must have vibrated or folded over. Back in the day I replaced cowl seals two times a week on average. I have said before in other threads, I look at the baffling and cowl seal like a water radiator, no air lead are expectable.
  5. The red oval shows the missing rivets
  6. There should be a rubber grommet in the area in red, one to seal the air gap and two to keep from chaffing through the line. jim
  7. As @N201MKTurbo & EricJ its about the how the seals - seal. Think about every space that air can leak as a problem that must be fixed. The only way to cool the cylinder is to have air flow down through the cylinder fins. 1) You are missing all the lower front cowl seals. 2) Cyl #1 looks like you only have a front and back pop rivets and you are missing the pop rivets in the middle. 3) The prop gov hard line in missing a grommet. 4) the back seal is vertical, you normally would like to see a bend forward so when the upper cowl is put on the seal faces forward and the high pressure above the engine pushes the seal on the cowl. If any seal folds over toward the low pressure area you will lose a huge amount of cooling air. When you put on the lower cowl on make sure all the lower seals are in the correct direction, think high pressure low pressure. When you put on the top cowl look in with a flash light and make sure all seals face the correct direction, forward and inboard.
  8. You can reinstall the caliper on the hydraulic line and step on the brake pedal. It will push the puck out. Its going to make a mess. Once the puck pops our removed the hydraulic line and cap immediately. You don't want air in the system. When you put it back together add some hyd fluid to the caliper and slide the puck in hold the fitting at the top. Push the puck in and keep tapping the housing. The idea is to make sure there is NO air in the puck. You will need the puck to still have about an 1/8 of an inch to go till flush. Reattach the brake line loosely and press the puck in till flush while wiggling the caliper to brake loose any air bubbles and tighten the fitting. If done properly you should not need to bleed the brakes.
  9. Added a pic of my engine in the morning after a cold night and the cylinders and oil at ~60F
  10. A friend installed a tractor LED as a landing light, same PAR36 so should be good, right. After he departed a private field with radio call outs and then called ATC to do some practice approaches he found the he was always Tx on both radios and any frequency, NORDO. He found that when he turned the landing light off everything was good. Yes tractor LED are cheaper, No they don't work if you want to use your radio. Oh course you are totally legally in using a cigarette lighter USB charger. kind of relevant
  11. When I was in a non heated hangar I used a trouble light stuffed up the cowl flap opening and a silver lined bubble wrap cover that i made to cover the engine. After a flight i would stuff the trouble light( with an incandescent 75watt bulb) up the cowl flap and rest it below the oil sump. I left it on 100% of the time. Even when it was <10F in Reno over night I would power up the master and check the engine temp on the JPI. The engine was always above 50F. In a pinch once when I got the plane stuck over night below freezing and no pre-heat available on the way into the airport I stopped by a hardware store and picked up an aluminum dryer duct. I pulled the rental car up close to the plane and connected the dryer duct to the car tail pipe and stuffed the pipe in the cowl flap with the oil door open. It took about 30 min to get the cylinder temps up and I pulled the prop through to see how she felt. Jim
  12. Hi Shadrach, Do know the procedure to clean out the lines, master cylinders, and calipers of 5606. Thanks Jim
  13. On your dual mag, do you have 2 P-leads on the left side(shower of sparks) and one on the right? Or when you pull the prop through in the normal direction do you hear a loud clunk like a deadbolt lock(Impulse coupling)? My guess is you have a shower of sparks and that kind of limits your troubleshooting options. From your symptoms I would bet that your left starting points(shower of sparks) are working and your left mag points are not set correctly. When you turn your key to energize your starter, it grounds both LH and RH points and only the LH start points operate. When it kicks and you go to both then both the LH and RH points operate as normal. This is so the normal points don't fire the spark plugs during start at 20 degrees BTDC and kick back. If you have a impulse coupling your left mag is most likely bad and your starting on your right. To prove the Mag/start switch is working correctly: Caution you are moving the prop with the mags HOT if there is fuel in the cylinder the prop can swing through and hurt you. 1) You can test your ignition switch by putting a Mag timing buzz box on the P leads(if studs) mag switch to both, move the prop to get both buzz box lights to come one. Then sit in the pilot seat, master off, wiggle the switch in the off position to see if the buzz box light change, then right and the right light should change, wiggle the key, then go to left, wiggle the key, move fully clock wise to the start circuit(mast off) and wiggle again. If you have P-lead caps you can remove both normal caps and connect the buzz box clips to the p-leads and run the same test above.
  14. +2 for Airspeed Insurance @Parker_Woodruff
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