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Everything posted by M20Doc

  1. How did it go from starting OK to a switch repair and now it’s the fuel system? If they removed the wires from the back of the switch, they may have something crossed, and if they replaced the internal contacts, they may have one of the triangular contacts in the wrong hole. I’ve seen this before. I have the TCM ignition switch manual if you need it. Clarence
  2. Search Gilles Glatz on Linked in, he delivers several planes per month from Europe. He’s delivered a few for clients of mine. Clarence
  3. I’ve never seen a fuel quantity transmitter held on with 6-32 screws. They have always been 10-32 screws or bolts. Clarence
  4. Even the IPC doesn’t show that placard. My guess is it’s home made. Clarence
  5. I’m in the fortunate position of having one personal airplane and one business airplane. You should be able to take the entire expense for ownership for the year, divide this by the number of hours flown for an hourly rate. Your journey log tracks personal versus business flying, multiply the usage hours for each and pay the holding company accordingly. Clarence
  6. It’s made by Safe Flight Instrument in White Plains NY. Part number from the wiring schematic C46001. It would be cheaper to send it back for repair than buying a new one. Clarence
  7. I just rechecked the IPC’s for the long bodies, M20R M20S M20TN M20U and M20V. All say RG24-15M, the older ones also say Gill G-243, non say RG24-15 and non show use of the aluminum hold down bar. Clarence
  8. We cleaned all of the grease out, the only piece of contamination was the broken tooth. Clarence
  9. That’s a good question and not a value I’ve ever checked. The factory pressure pick up is on the finger screen body, where are you doing the other pressure check? Have you cleaned the finger screen? Not that it should affect fuel pressure, the factory fitting in the finger screen body has a built in restrictor is it clean? Clarence
  10. It really depends on your maintainer. I’ve had them produce cables for me when the OEM parts are no longer available. Clarence
  11. Nice work on your engine. Nice to see it being fully primed, Lycoming should take note. Even the cheapest cars worth less than a Lycoming engine have better paint. Clarence
  12. Skip, We haven’t replaced them because of a particular failure, but because the others crank a big bore Continental faster for better starting and longer starter adapter life. The Lycoming versions generally work quite well, I’ve replaced one due to actual failure. Clarence
  13. That explains it. You have to wonder what happened to the left over pieces? I tell my guys it should scare them when they have left over hardware and they better be able to explain to me where it cam from. Clearly there is a lack of training and supervision at the shop that did this to your airplane. Clarence
  14. I’ll look tomorrow, I may have pressure transducer. Clarence
  15. Here is the PoHlist by year and serial number. Clarence
  16. I’ve thrown away at least a dozen SkyTec 3 & 5 in favour of Tempest or TCM versions, I couldn’t give them away, no one wanted them. Clarence
  17. We have no idea what caused the tooth to break off, there was a reasonable amount of grease in the actuator. Clarence
  18. Have a long body in the shop with wing flaps which would jamb and trip the breaker, always in the same place. Nothing was physically stopping the travel, so we disconnected the actuator from the flap torque tube, they were all free. Then we took,the actuator out and opened the back cover. Here is what we found. One missing tooth. Clarence
  19. I showed this thread to my guys this morning to educate them. After that I did some research on batteries, and there is disagreement on applicable batteries. The long body IPC’s show either a Gill G243 or a Concord RG24-15M battery. Both of these are manifold vented batteries, both have a lid with holes moulded into it for the 2 mounting studs and do not use the aluminum hold down bar. The Concord application guide says an RG24-15, this battery uses the aluminum hold down bar and does not have holes moulded into the lid. Interestingly the maintenance manuals do not mention safety wiring the wing nuts in either the removal or installation instructions, not that that removes responsibility for securing the battery, it’s still poor maintenance. I’m curious to know which batteries were installed in the OP’s airplane. If they are RG24-15M, I find it hard to imagine that the batteries could jump off the mounting studs. If they are RG24-15 and the aluminum bar was not installed, I can understand the batteries bouncing around un secured. Installed correctly four wing nuts don’t just come loose on their own. Clarence
  20. As always another interesting read on Mooneyspace. I can’t believe that things you guys are putting up with. Every shop has had issues from time to time, mine included. Sad that so many of the things you guys are relating can be cured with training and some supervision. Clarence
  21. That pretty scary. I’m curious if the batteries were still on the mounting studs? They can be a challenge to hold the battery up while aligning to 2 studs to pass through the holes in the battery lid. Clarence
  22. Hey Steve, How about a J in a kit form? It would be quite popular. Clarence
  23. The same people who don’t use the radio, likely also don’t have ELT’s, fire extinguishers, never turn on their transponder, do 2 year pitot static checks and join the traffic pattern anywhere they feel like. Clarence
  24. I’m sure that’s backwards, you need to hold the inner nut and then loosen and remove the outer nut. The coax is secured to the inner nut and stud. Time to upgrade to a 406 MHz ELT looks like it’s come. Clarence