moosebreath

You can search for my post “Stupidly Simple Boost Pump Switch Repair” and likely fix it yourself.

You access the bulbs exactly as Jake describes. They simply plug into sockets on the front of the unit. The hardest part is getting the static line off if it has not been disconnected recently. The rubber will be old and not want to slide off the metal tube on the computer. Mouser part number 606-CM7376 will work. They are currently less than $2.00 each if you buy ten. It might be a good idea to simply replace them all at the same time.

+1

The short version of my story is that I wanted to purchase two new main gear shock links. I have in prior years bought parts from the factory by calling them directly. The current policy is to order through a MSC only. My service guys had in the past just called Lasar for price and delivery of factory parts. This time the phone went directly to an answering machine when they called. The same happened when I called. The message said to email parts requests. I did this but was a bit unsatisfied with this method given my plane was sitting on jacks in the hanger at the time. While awaiting a reply I discovered Dugosh had one of these new old stock on eBay. I called to ask if they happened to have a second one. They answered the phone on the first ring and told me they had only one. They checked factory stock for me while I was on the phone and gave me a quote. Further they offered to walk across the ramp to the factory to pick it up for me and ship it in the same box with the one they had available. You can't ask for more than that, I thought. The new one cost $1485 plus a bit of freight which is a lot. Lasar sent me an answer four days after my inquiry. They offered to sell me exactly the same part (as in the same exact physical one sitting on the factory shelf) for over $1800! So my experience was this: Lasar took four days to answer and marked up the factory price more than 20%. Dugosh answered instantly, shipped the part at once, and charged me a bit over the factory list price. They even apologized for not being able to box it up in time for UPS pickup the same day. Given the above it will be an easy choice who to call first when I need factory parts next. To be fair, I did not call every MSC for a quote and I would hope there are others who answer the phone. Don Maxwell was nice enough to tell me that both that the part was heat treated and not repairable and that he did not have any in stock. I only called Dugosh because they had one advertised. It does seem to me that they have a huge advantage over other MSC given they can see the factory from their hanger. Your experience may be different but I would suggest you consider Dugosh if you need factory parts.

I have to say it … $230 EACH for a lightbulb is not cheap. Also when you get into the wingtip you will discover they are actually a bit fiddly to replace. Several years ago I and others made our own as documented on postings here. I do not recall the exact cost but it can not have been more than $50 total for two. I think the home made variety are just as bright as well. I just can’t get past the thought it is just a low power, non critical, not at all special, solid state, LIGHTBULB. Landing and taxi lights, I gritted my teeth and bought aircraft variety. But $230 for a recognition light bulb? I could not have done it even if they had been available. They will doubtless still sell a lot of them.

I am looking for a source of two serviceable shock link assemblies, 520010-501 as part of my landing gear repair.

All four books are available on Kindle Unlimited for free. You can read them on your iPad and decide if you need a hard copy. Kindle Unlimited is about $10 a month.

Yes, I am looking for some instruction not a book course.

Any recommendations?

Precisely the same in my ‘96 J. Which means when your stall warning fails on a long cross country and sounds continuously you will have to pull the stall warning AND gear warning breakers to make it stop. Ask me how I know …

My factory gauges read perfectly with the bladders. The tanks do fill more slowly as mentioned above.

A good solution to this problem is use of Caig Deoxit. It is really expensive and really amazing. A two pack of the 2ml squeeze tube is $14 on Amazon. I have used it in a variety of applications with uniformly remarkable success including RV trailer Bargman plugs, every known amateur radio connector, and the control electronics for 4 and 15 meter diameter telescopes. It also does not retain dirt like Vaseline.

I won this in a raffle and have no use for it. It is in the original box with all the accessories and instruction manual. These include a headset adapter, 12v charger adapter, and a AA battery tray as well as the Lithium-Ion battery. $200 via PayPal shipped in the USA

Sadly I had to cancel my planned trip for this year. I have the following for sale: Camp Scholler Weekly Camping Ticket beginning on Sunday ... $180 Payment by Paypal and I will ship them via Priority Mail. I hope someone can make use of these.

Trim servos are hard to find but surely you mean $900 not $9000! What model is it?

Sold

New, in box. I ended up with three of these and only need two. $200 shipped in the US. Payment via PayPal. Message me and I will send you my PayPal ID

No it does not fault. Hitting the end of travel does not generate a TRIM warning light or audible warning. It just stops. I speculate the computer senses a demand signal and no movement from the tach feedback and stops the motor. There is no mention of how the end stops work in the manual that I could find.

In the course of troubleshooting a problem with the trim servo in my KFC 150 I attempted to find an engineering system description. I knew this had to exist somewhere but it was not to be found in any resource I could locate for free. The codex for the logic of KFC 150 operation is King Manual 006-5539-00 entitled "King KC 190,191,192 Autopilot Computer Maintenance / Overhaul". There are no free sources that I could locate. eFlightManuals.com has them available for .1 amu or perhaps you can give your local shop a couple of six packs and take theirs to Staples. However you acquire access to the manual, turn to Section 4 for your model computer and begin to learn how the system actually works in detail. Expect that this will take a while and in some places be a bit of a steep learning curve if you are not an engineer and/or electronics enthusiast. Here is a crib if you are interested in the trim servo. The King terminology for what I would call the "trim system" is the "autotrim system". I thought initially that was an option I did not have installed. Even for the non-engineer, the Theory of Operation section of this tome is full of useful and interesting things not covered in the Pilot's Guide, which is primarily concerned with what button to push when rather than how the system actually functions. Why King did not make this information easily available is a mystery to me. Perhaps they thought only engineer pilots would care. Here you can discover the one true answer to such mysteries as: - How to calculate the lead for level off when you hit altitude hold. Answer: Lead the desired altitude by 15% of the rate of climb in feet. I tested it yesterday, it works perfectly. - How does the system recapture after a losing the glideslope signal? In distinctly different ways I discovered depending on the delay before the glideslope signal is again recieved. - How in the world does it decide when to engage NAV mode once it is armed? Well ... it depends on exactly how you engage NAV mode and the offset error from the desired course at the time it is engaged. There is a whole section on just this topic. - And the ultimate and final answer to that old chestnut: Does the glideslope capture from above and below? Answer: Absolutely yes it does but it requires a null in the glideslope error signal to do so. If you approach from above and then level off just at or above the glideslope capture never occurs. (Guess now I know this ...) Fly though the glideslope, like you do when level approaching from below, and it captures every time. It is my hope that some other technical knowledge seeker will someday find this post and discover the path to KFC 150 enlightenment thus preserving their sanity. Not to mention that you will be able to definitively determine the difference between how your KFC 150, or someone else's, is presently working and how it is SUPPOSED to work.

What you say is all true. The question I had remaining is what happens when the trim goes all the way to the mechanical stop in one direction or the other. Clearly the servos can not spin without limit then. Being an engineer, I could not stand not knowing any longer. If anyone else wants to discover exactly what your KFC150 is doing, and I understand if you don't, what you need is a copy of King Manual 006-5539-00, King KC 190,191,192 Autopilot Computer Maintenance / Overhaul. There are no free sources that I could locate. eFlightManuals.com has them or perhaps you can give your local shop a couple of six packs and take theirs to Staples. However you acquire the manual turn to Section 4 for your computer and begin to learn how the system actually works in detail. Expect that this will take a while and might not be helpful if you are not an engineer and/or electronics enthusiast. Here is a crib if you are interested in the trim servos. The King terminology for what I would call the "trim system" is the "autotrim system". I thought initially that was an option I did not have installed. The answer to my question is the following. The trim servo has no stops or position encoding, which is why you can simply replace it and the system still works. What it does have is tachometer feedback. The computer monitors whether there is a command for the trim motor and then whether the trim motor is moving, at what speed, and in what direction. It does this whether the autopilot / flight director is engaged or not. King specifically says it monitors for actuation in a reverse direction and movement with no command signal. In these cases it generates a trim fault. What King does not say, explicitly, is what happens when the trim hits the mechanical stop. It clearly senses a command to move with no tachometer feedback in this case. I was curious as to whether the servo motor is commanded to stop or whether it has a clutch that releases and it keeps moving until you release the trim switch. I did not want to buy the trim servo manual to find out. The quest for the right manuals had already begun to make me feel like Groucho Marx in "A Day at the Races". For the answer, I made a trip to the hanger and ran the trim to the stop. I could hear the motor run once I silenced all the noisy panel fans and gyros. When the trim hits the mechanical stop the motor stops. Clearly there is logic in the computer to do this as it is perfectly clear from the schematics that there are no limit switches or encoders in the system. I will make a separate slightly different post to document that the manual Theory of Operation section is just full of interesting things to know about how the system functions that are not documented in the Pilot's Guide such as how to calculate the lead for level off when you hit altitude hold (15% of the rate of climb in feet, I tested it yesterday, it works perfectly). How the system recaptures after a lost glideslope (it depends on the delay before the signal is again recieved, did you know that?). How it engages NAV mode once it is armed, (it depends on exactly how you engage NAV mode and the offset error when you do). And yes, that old chestnut, does the glideslope capture from above and below. The answer is YES. Perhaps some other knowledge seeker will see this someday and also discover the path to KFC 150 enlightenment. Why this information is not simply in the back of the Pilots Manual is a mystery to me. King must have thought only engineer pilots would care.

I also have the KFC 150 Mooney installation STC. This details installation and testing of the entire system. It has no mention anywhere concerning setting a pitch trim servo datum. There is trim position feedback. Perhaps the computer remembers where the clutch disengages at the end of travel.

I have just had the KS179 removed, repaired, and reinstalled. During this process the servo was run without being installed. How does the KFC 150 know where the trim stops are? The servo was removed and replaced without attempting to retain any datum point. Does the servo simply run the trim until it hits the mechanical stop and then disengage the clutch? This seems rather simple minded but perhaps that is how it works. The trim currently runs from stop to stop just as it did before. I have the installation, service, and operating manuals and I still can't figure this out. Anyone out there know for sure?

It appears I might need a KS179 pitch trim servo, part number 065-0052-14. Does anyone have one available?

I just adjusted my panel gauges on Thursday, my right gauge was reading about 28 gallons when full and it was driving me crazy. It is just a simple span and zero adjustment. The best way to set zero is with the tank empty. How you do that is an “exercise for the maintainer”. Do it first. Set the span on a level surface with the tank full. You will have to exercise the span screw a bit and then make several adjustment trials to get it to read properly. Mine did not have a simple linear change as you might expect. The adjustment seems to persist once it is made however. Be VERY VERY careful not to overtighten the gauge locking screw. Use two fingers and stop when it is only a bit snug. If you go further you will break the corner of the plastic gauge face. Rochester will be glad to make you one to order for around $175 plus shipment. Ask me how I know … Once the above is done use the fuel totalizer and ignore the gauges. I have my totalizer calibrated to within a few tenths of a gallon out of 50. That is better than 1%. It is easy to do and the procedure can be found searching here. The panel gauges are reliable within 5 gallons or so, maybe.

Pull the stall horn breaker AND the gear horn breaker to stop it. It is crazy but that is how the wiring is done. After that you likely need a new microswitch in the stall warning vane. They are a standard part available from Mouser for less than $10. Alternatively a new part from the manufacturer is around a grand. Use the forum search function. This has all been discussed before. You will find discussion and applicable part numbers.