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Ragsf15e

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Everything posted by Ragsf15e

  1. Well I definitely believe your panel is all wired up so that the G5 provides altitude to whatever needs it (gfc500, gps, transponder, etc), but the “primary altitude” is still the mechanical altitude indicator. I’m not exactly sure how you’re supposed to reconcile that, but I think that’s where we are.
  2. That is not fun. Washington and most of Oregon seem to be 90% clear, and the remaining smoke isn’t significantly reducing vis.
  3. Just flew back to Spokane from Glacier. Smoke. Agrh!! It wasn’t bad, plenty of vis, easy vfr, but there’s a brown layer around 9,000’. No idea where it’s coming from. It’s there because just yesterday I said we were all clear.
  4. Yes, but tough to say how much. If you depart fully loaded at medium density altitude, that can be a real problem. It will climb like a -152.
  5. It’s really nice now! I think there’s still some smoke down toward Northern California, but Washington and Oregon are looking good! I flew Spokane to Newport Oregon 2 weeks ago and it was good. Spokane to Kalispell MT today was beautiful!
  6. Unless you’re over the North Atlantic. At night.
  7. AGL Aviation has a good reputation with Moonies. I think they’re in Virginia, but someone will be along to say for sure.
  8. Well bus voltage should be at 14v. Literally 14+/-0.2v or so. If your engine is running and the vr and alternator are working, bus voltage should stay right at 14v with any reasonable load. Usually we’ll see corroded connections show as say 13v or so. Still higher than battery voltage, but not 14v as the alternator should be putting out. If you’re down at 12.4ish, that’s pretty much battery voltage, so is the alternator providing anything?
  9. Also, the amp meter in these is just showing the amps going to charge the battery, not a total electrical load. Do you have a voltage meter? If yes, what does your bus voltage show? If not, one can be bought inexpensively on Amazon and fit in your cig lighter. Its pretty common on the old ones to find a corroded connection increasing resistance in the electrical system.
  10. After reading this thread, I made one of these “do not tow” signs with 1/2” pvc that fits into the nose gear. I gotta say, it scares me to have it in there because I might miss it on preflight and takeoff with it in there. I ended up tying it to a hook on my cover so they are connected. Dont save your nose gear only to destroy it when you retract the gear with the sign in!
  11. Yeah I agree with that. In practice though I like it better because now I can set my altitude by g5 and the corresponding pressure altitude from the g5 goes to the transponder. Before there was an encoder between the altimeter and transponder. I feel like there’s less error now than before. Everything is digital and it’s all in one system.
  12. One weird thing after first acknowledging that you’re correct the altitude on the G5 isn’t primary… the G5 is allowed to be your altitude encoder. So how the heck is my non-primary g5 altitude feeding my encoded altitude to ATC while i fly off my “primary” mechanical altimeter?! Luckily mine are within about 50’, but still, atc is seeing exactly what my g5 is showing.
  13. Yes, I also have g5 with stec30. The gpss is internal to the g5. It’s really nice. Before the g5, I had the stec gpss installed with the AP, but that was able to be removed when the g5 went in.
  14. Someone more knowledgeable will be along soon, but I thought i read about it being called a “sonalert” or something like that? Is it in your parts manual? I believe there’s another one for the gear warning.
  15. Does it get capacity checked at annual? Good chance it’s below capacity mins if it’s starting noticeably slower. Do you fly ifr? Possibly worth knowing, possibly not. Up to you.
  16. This will definitely work, just be careful of the runway length. One thing to consider is a big bounce may have launched you airborne below your normal flare speeds. She may or may not be able to flare again without power. So you can get back to a normal flare attitude but the second bounce might still be worse and lead to porpoising. Power helps put some extra air over the wing and horizontal stab but could significantly increase landing distance.
  17. Just to be clear though, in most situations, if you bounce reasonably hard once, don’t expect it to get better on the next bounce. Go around. In deference to @steingar, there may be situations that you want to ride out (trees, waited too long, etc). If you go around at the first bounce you’ll generally be in a much better place though. As a very current corporate pilot, ex usaf instructor, cfi/cfii and with ~700hours in my F model, somehow I bounced a landing a year ago with my wife and 2 kids aboard. Spooked the crap out of me. Luckily I added power and went around immediately. I was on the ~3400’ “short” runway at our field, so full flaps. Luckily I practice the configured go around because it requires a significant push once you add full power. No harm done, but looking back, I’m really glad I didn’t try to save the landing and bounce it again. It can happen to anyone, anytime.
  18. Don’t expect miracles. Yes a SF starts well, but if you don’t use the well developed hot start technique, it won’t start.
  19. I have a Surefly for the last 2 years on a similar engine (m20F). It’s good. Starts easy, slightly better performance lean of peak at higher altitude (~8,500’+), no change ROP. No 500hr maintenance. I did a longer writeup in a different thread showing slightly improved lean of peak speed at higher altitude (where the advance has kicked in). Dont expect miracles. I seriously doubt you’ll see 1gph difference at same speed. I measured ~2-3kts better lop at similar ff.
  20. SF tech support responded pretty fast. Here’s their answer: Drew The SIM utilizes a wasted spark system. One coil fires two cylinders on opposing banks. If it were a coil inside the SIM acting up it would happen on 2 opposing cylinders. My guess is if it’s an ignition issue you are probably looking at harness or plugs. Spark plugs should be gapped at .022. You will also want to check the plug resistance which should be 4K to 7K Ohms. Blue Skies Shane
  21. It’s a Kelly on the SF. I have a Maggie on the right mag. I hadn’t heard of them when I got the SF or I would have got a Maggie.
  22. Quick question about fuel selector valves since I'm studying for my annual in a couple months... Mine hasn't been R&R'd or overhauled since May 2012, about 800 hours. I just found the below tidbit in the mx manual. Do you guys R&R them at 500 hours or so? It seems to work ok... Thanks!
  23. Ok, first off, using the power of my EDM-930 engine monitor, I now know that this has been happening for over a year. The engine runs smooth, starts easy, etc. LOP or ROP, the engine seems fine. There is a SF Mag on the left and a standard mag on the right. Why does the #4 EGT rise so much more than the others during the mag check? Here's what I know... My mechanic says the plugs all get rotated at annual. This was happening before my last annual. This cylinder was actually overhauled at last annual and it was happening before/after that. The SF is 2 years old and the harness (Kelly) was new with the SF. This cylinder is my leanest running cylinder, but not grossly lean (I have GAMIs to about 0.4 spread) (Green is rpm, purple is #4 egt)
  24. Certainly anecdotal, but I have Tempest fine wires installed by the previous owner, 8 years and 750 hours ago. Knock on wood, I’ve never had to put any thought into spark plug issues during that time.
  25. I think he just meant that he worries more about dropping the fine wires because they are 3x expensive ($120 ea?!), not because massives don’t break when dropped.
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