Ragsf15e

38 minutes ago, Utah20Gflyer said:

The simple answer is a hanger fairy dialed up your oil pressure when you weren’t looking.   Normally a hanger fairy would only complete work they knew the owner wanted, but maybe yours went rogue.  

I’m just glad he didn’t dial it down!

12 hours ago, PT20J said:

One other thought: When was the last time you checked the suction screen in the sump? There might be some carbon in there reducing the flow rate slightly that might have an effect on oil pressure. Draining the oil might have migrated some carbon to the sump where it was picked up in the screen. This is just a spitball thought, though.

I agree with your above to watch and wait.  If it stays the same throughout this oil change, I’ll have my mechanic check the oil screen.  That’s a good idea as he usually needs a little push to do that and I don’t do that myself.

7 hours ago, MooneyMunnerlyn said:

Hello,

 

I fly a M20E and I have an oil leak on the back of my engine. It runs down the rear interior cowling and down covering the front gear as all Mooney oil leaks do. I have somewhat located the general area of the leak through cleaning the engine and running it. But, I am not super engine savvy so I was hoping that someone could point me in a more accurate direction. I know it could be a vacuum pump, rear mounted governor, or magneto leak from what I have researched. I think it originates above the governor though. The oil filter is tight and so are the return lines. The leak runs down and covers the exhaust manifold and the orange and black lines in this photo. It seems to equate to a loss of about 1 quart every 4 hours. Here are some photos of the leak thus far (seems to come from high rear).

What the other guys are saying nicely is that you’re not leaking a qt/4 hours.  If you were, you’d be shocked at what the bottom of the airplane looked like. You’re likely leaking a tablespoon per 4 hours, but hot oil spreads very easily and makes a big mess.  I’m not saying that your oil level doesn’t go down by a qt/4 hours.  Actually that’s not terrible, but it’s unlikely caused by a leak.  Oil can also go out the breather or through the exhaust valves.  Blow by of the rings is pretty common and will significantly increase your oil loss. These things do use some oil.

Now there’s absolutely nothing wrong with finding/fixing your leak (we all have small ones), but don’t expect it to change your oil use. Most of these engines use a qt/4-12 hours depending on cylinder type and age.

2 hours ago, PeteMc said:

Okay, "eliminating" dumb question round...   With the change in Wx you didn't up the weight of the oil?  By any chance did  you add more oil than normal?

Did you completely fill the oil filter before spinning it on?  If not, here is one I'm just tossing out there as a NON mechanic thinking of what could change the oil pressure.  I've "heard" stories about oil filters coming apart inside if you don't fill them fill them first and then startup the engine.  It sounds a bit far fetched and I'm guessing it is an old hangar tale or it had to do with older style filters on maybe radial engines, but maybe it is true.  If the filter is defective and there are now extra material in the wrong place, might it not change the Oil Pressure indication.  Depending upon where your oil pressure sensor is, it might be backwards and you'd show lower pressure if it was a defective filter.  (Mechanics???) 

And do you just muscle the cowling off/on or do you have something to support it.  I used to do it alone but it was really hard on the edges. 

 

Same oil (xc20w-50).  No I haven’t ever put oil in my filter first, and I don’t think my IA does either.  Interesting though be supposedly a “blockage” can increase it?

The old models with the aluminum cowl are really easy to get back on by yourself.  Maybe the whole top cowl is 5 pounds?  I’m guessing the fiberglass ones are a little more heavy…

23 minutes ago, Hector said:

Going through the decision process on backup AI myself. My M20 F is going in for avionics upgrades in a couple of weeks it already has a GI 275 for AI but the HSI is analog. The HSI is getting replaced with another GI 275. Both GNS 430w are getting replaced with GTN 650. The panel mounted 496 will be replaced with an Aera 660. The airplane currently has a backup AI that is vacuum driven. It is the only instrument in the plane that will need vacuum and it just recently started to precess badly so it needs to be replaced. So, struggling with what to replace it with. Another vacuum driven AI, or a digital AI so I can remove the vacuum system. If digital AI then I wanted something that will last longer than the GI 275. Been looking hard at the RCA 2610-3. At 80% brightness it will last 3 hours on its internal battery which is plenty long to get me down alone with the Aera 660 with its own 4 hour battery which I can use for navigation while he master is off. Still have not made a final decision but but leaning towards ditching he vacuum pump and installing the RCA 2610



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Another benefit of the rca is completely different software, ahrs type and “aiding” requirements from your gi-275s.  I have looked at that as a great backup option as well.

47 minutes ago, DCarlton said:

If you have all the data…. Curious, did the pressure change at all from when the oil was fresh to when it needed changing ?  

Nope, in the past, oil change hasn’t been noticeable.  I’m not sure this oil change is responsible, but strangely it only started immediately after it.

Oil use is noticeable for me though as the oil “ages”.  I have to add more per hour (slightly) as it gets old. However, the pressure was always the same.

For the last 2-3 years, my oil pressure was 74-76psi and 180-185 degrees in cruise.  I have all the data from my edm930.  Last Thursday I changed the oil (I do the grunt work and my IA spun on the filter and safety wired).  Then on Saturday I flew a 2 hour cross country.  Oil pressure 81psi the whole time, 180 degrees temp.  Huh?  Today I flew home, same thing.  Any reason why it might change a little higher like that?  Obviously it’s still perfectly in the green but it’s definitely different which has made me wonder…

IO-360A1A

On 4/20/2024 at 2:13 PM, bonal said:

It’s been some time but wanted to share with you the painting I did for last years silent auction at the summit.  I Don’t know if the winner is someone that visits Mooneyspace but wanted to thank them for their contribution to the Guillian (spelling) foundation.  Was very nice working with them and I was very happy with the results of my work as were the recipients.  They run Cadillac aviation in Michigan.

John

That’s really well done!

Another Mooney on the ramp in Hillsboro Oregon this weekend!  A beautiful long body with tks.  Definitely makes me jealous.  I always miss out meeting the pilot too - he/she must have arrived after me?

Real nice tailwind on the way back to Spokane.  Apparently I broke the Mooney groundspeed record as well… at least my 430W thinks so!

1 hour ago, MB65E said:

What light bulb socket is under the floor? 
My right nav light won’t work with an LED lamp. Only an old Grimes bulb. Time to get out the ohm meter. 
-Matt

Maybe he means the light under the manual indicator in the floor?  Mine has a very small bulb in it and the wiring is fragile, but it works fine and lights up the floor indicator.

51 minutes ago, DCarlton said:

My EDM 730 and AV 30 both display voltage but the AV 30 reads .5 volts lower.  Is that common?  How can the difference be explained if they’re wired to the same buss?  I’m haven’t checked with a volt meter to see who’s providing ground truth.  

You can definitely have voltage loss where there’s resistance through a bad/corroded connection or circuit breaker.  The higher one is likely the voltage on your bus.  Trace the lines and check each connection with a dvm to find where the drop is for the lower one.  I had a similar problem and found a looses connection to a circuit breaker.  It doesn’t take much.

I agree 30 minutes isn’t enough, but im pretty comfortable with the 3:30-4:30 that I have on two G5s.  I have tested them both many times, and last year flew a 3 hour cross country with both of their CBs pulled.  They still indicated ~45 minutes remaining.  I’m not sure what the right answer is, but I don’t see flying my little m20f through/over weather so bad that it would take me multiple hours to divert to vfr.  That just seems like a day I shouldn’t have flown.

Just don’t take out the fuel tank ones. It will be self critiquing.  They do look different, but it’s possible.  I remove them all like @Hanksaid.

39 minutes ago, Derrickearly said:

Looks like I need one of these too.  My mechanic's finger can pass right through a hole in the top.

Yep, you need one then.  You’re pulling unfiltered air right into the fuel servo and through into the engine.  There may be some temporary repairs that could work depending on your mechanics comfort level.  The lead time for the new one is at least 35 weeks, so you’ll want to call Lasar asap.

17 hours ago, marcusku said:

I recently moved into an Ovation and one mark against it was it last lived in Ft. Lauderdale.  It doesn't have any signs of corrosion and the obvious areas of the airplane are clean.  I'm wondering if I need to worry about "salt dust" in internal areas?  If it exists I can't imagine there is anything that one could do?  Many areas of the airplane can't be hosed off.  Appreciate any suggestions.  

An acf-50 spray inside the wings, tail and appropriate fuselage area is pretty easy and relatively cheap.  Add that to flying a lot (which lubes engine parts), and keeping it in a hangar and you’ll be fine.

Some of them can fit in one instrument hole (gi-275 eis), but most require more space.  We need a panel picture.

5 minutes ago, Shiroyuki said:

During a recent inspection my M20J’s muffler flame tube was found to be broken, and my mechanic suggest to replace it.

The mechanic who found the broken flame tube says the riser and tailpipe need to be replaced at the same time, while my regular mechanic says he would just replace the muffler.

I don’t really know who’s advice to follow so looking for some input.

thanks

There are a few other threads on this (try some google searches with mooneyspace and flame tube), but it’s going to be at the discretion of your IA.  Many are fin with missing flame tubes. Mine hasn’t had one in several years. That being said, you should ensure there are no leaks, especially around the heater muff as that can become dangerous.  If it’s simply the flame tube, you might want to consider just keeping an eye on it.

21 hours ago, Shadrach said:

Oscar,

What do you perceive to be the benefit of relocating the cooler? 
 

Can someone with the mod speak to the ease (or lack thereof) of removing the left magneto with the cooler in place?

I wonder what the benefit is too. I haven’t had oil temperature problems with the stock position, so I have to assume something besides position of the oil cooler is causing the high temps?  Mine sits at 185 degrees unless I let my chts sit up around 400 in a climb (slow speed) in real hot air.  Just holding a cruise climb and keeping chts under control seems to be enough to keep it below 200 for sure. 

32 minutes ago, EricJ said:

Your airplane looks great!

It's always a bit annoying to those of us who don't keep them that clean... 

Thanks!  I do try to keep it clean.  Washing and waxing it is therapeutic for me, but the real secret is Oct-Apr is no bug season up here!  I’m lucky to find one or two to clean after a long flight during the winter!

Can we call it a convention?!  There were more Mooneys in this “Cirrus Service Center” than Cirri today.  One for annual and mine for an owner assisted oil change and minor fuel seep (top screw on wing walk).

19 hours ago, Shadrach said:

I flew my F model today for the first time since annual was completed last month.  My plan was to do a timed climb to 10k and gather speed data. It was 81 so I opened the vent in climb. To my surprise, I was blasted with high heat. It was like running a heat gun in the cockpit. I closed the center vent, but by 4500’ the heat radiating from the duct itself caused me to RTB. On the ground I started trouble shooting. It turns out, the cable mount was disturbed while reclocking the prop governor. This prevented the internal flapper valve from fully seating in either the open or closed position. A simple repositioning of the Adel clamp holding the cable rectified the situation. Those of you with heater issues would do well to simply ensure that the valve is moving over its full range of travel.  As you can see the heater box and the seal are in fine condition even at 57 years old. The seal material look like table tennis racket rubber.

Heat on

 

heat off

 

 

Adel clamp after repositioning.

Here’s mine… it’s a ‘68F but looks totally different, no?  Seems to have the same size flapper secured to a seal in the middle.  Looking down from the top.  I also have the large diameter scat tube in and out.  Maybe it’s just a different size sheet metal air box?  Yours is mounted much lower too.

My climb rates at lower altitudes were very similar to yours.  I didn’t start to drop off until above 5-6k…

15 hours ago, DCarlton said:

Anyone know if the old thermometer probe stuck through the windscreen can be removed if I have two digital OAT gages (EDM730 and AV30).  What paper trail would allow you to remove it?  On one hand it keeps my cover on; on the other hand it keeps my cover on.  I’d definitely like it removed if I install a new windscreen.  Thanks. 

I had an IA remove my unicorn horn about 9 years ago.  That part is simple.  Make sure you have a plan to fill the hole. There is guidance in the appropriate maintenance regulations for windshield repair. My IA just filled it with silicon. My new IA has not complained about it and it has held up just fine, but that is not in accordance with the directions.

@Shadrach Mine is a 68 but the valve looks totally different.  It’s a butterfly and the seal doesn’t look like it, well, seals as well.  They are pretty easy to adjust for best efficiency though.

I can’t wait for your time to climb and speed run numbers!

I see my IA do some of that kind of thing while I’m helping and I usually bite my tongue and move the binder/tool/whatever.  He is actually pretty careful, but stuff definitely happens to these airplanes.  Taking them all apart all the time in a shop for multiple weeks doesn’t help.  I guess im lucky to have marginal paint…

Another place it can easily come from is your mags and harness.  I had bad noise once after maintenance and found several very loose spark plug connections.  They don’t get tightened much, but if they are loose it’s noticeable.