Andy95W

Actually, an STC covers all of that and dispenses with the need for a PMA. That's why Sabremech's cowling is STCed but not PMAed, just like a Garmin G5.

Carter pin.

While I agree that is probably the source of your leak, I would double check before you mix the sealant. Nothing sucks more than going to all that trouble, resealing the access panel, and then finding out there was another leak. I suggest reading the article below, Don Maxwell describes a great method for finding leaks, and you're already halfway there. http://donmaxwell.com/fuel-tank-repairs-how-we-fix-them/ Good luck, keep us posted.

That looks nice, but I don't think you should have removed your Johnson Bar just to have cup holders...

@Lionudakis and I are both A&P/IA's, so some experience as well. A cam like that could go 50 hours or 250 hours. If it was forged before 1995, it's a lot more likely to go longer. I'd cut open the oil filter every 25 hours and check the suction screen every 50. Every annual I'd check valve lift like it mentions in Lycoming SB 301B (normally a 400 hour inspection).

Richard- I see what you mean, I've made some notes on the photo. It might come down to how many hours are on the engine, and just run it until the cam spalls. Then either overhaul or replace the camshaft and install DLC lifters.

Call JPI. Their tech department is very good and will let you know. I guarantee they've seen this before. What's odd is that the JPI finds new probes when you plug them in. I'm surprised it doesn't realize that they're not plugged in anymore.

On my jacks (Alpha Aviation, but very similar design) I have to physically push the piston down into the cylinder so that it is low enough to get under the airplane.

The standard orange SCAT tubing is 100% acceptable for that installation.

Ross, if you're re-doing your panel and your A&P/IA is agreeable, I'll email you a copy of that 337.

I'm not sure the ADS-B transmitters have enough bandwidth to stream that content. Certainly not for Marauder's tastes.

@ilovecornfields- I truly doubt that Anthony (carusoam) was asking that you leave permanently (at least I hope not). You do provide a lot of unique insight that many of us find useful. I'm with Bonal. I hope you stay and continue to post.

Actually, I did exactly this. By the FAA definition, it is a minor alteration. I wrote it up on a 337 as such and my FSDO agreed. Technically, a 337 isn't even required for a minor alteration, but I filed it anyway because in that form it helps serve as a permanent part of the aircraft records that modifies the information in the Owner's Manual. I fabricated a dedicated bus bar for the components controlled by those breaker switches on the pilot side. I used switches and circuit breakers that were MIL-SPEC. I used wire that was appropriate for the current based upon AC 43-13.

Welcome, Paul Salem. It really doesn't make sense to buy an airplane on your own other than for convenience or just because you love owning your own airplane. Here are some fixed costs, you can figure yours from there. -You should probably figure $2,000/year for insurance (but figure $3000 for the first year). -You should probably figure $5,000/ year for maintenanc, including annuals (but figure $10,000 for the first year). -You should probably figure $3,000-6,000/ year for hangar rent, depending on your area. You don't have to hangar it, but you'll be glad you did. -Don't forget sales tax/Use tax for your state. Good luck, keep us posted.

They say it doesn't matter. The evidence for that is when the electronic ignition advances the timing, it only fires one plug early and the engine still runs very smooth, particularly lean of peak.

The rust on the arm going to the elevator is not uncommon. The airplane got stripped well, but when they shot the paint they didn't get enough onto the top part of that steel control horn. One day you will probably want to remove it from the airplane, clean it down to bare metal, and reshoot the paint with it off the airplane.

Your question might’ve been better in the Avionics section. A lot of that stuff is all over the place right now as people upgrade their panels. Your best bet is to check average values from eBay and then just post the stuff for sale in the Mooneyspace classified section with your price for each, or best offer.

@Cody Stallings

Actually, I'm pretty sure that's a DC-9. The Douglas Corporation tested different colors and found that "Robin's Egg Blue" was most visually ergonomic so they used that.

Except that there is real data to support some of those claims. On page 1 of this thread (posted on May 21, 2017), I included the Aviation Consumer article that talked about corrosion testing for different oils and additives. AVBLEND tested comparably to Camguard, and actually showed identical performance in anti-corrosion. Aviation Consumer does not take advertising money and is probably the most independent and unbiased reviewer of aviation products available to us as consumers. I'm not trying to convince anybody one way or another, but neither will I belittle anyone out there for their preferences, snake oil or not. (I'm not implying that Hank was doing that, I simply quoted his post to reference the test data.)

Mine has started doing that, too, but very intermittently. I expect it to get worse over time so I'm planning on pulling it out and send for overhaul. Price seems to be about $350-500. The fuel pressure line probably needs cleaned out with mineral spirits also. Hopefully someone around here can provide suggestions for a good instrument overhaul shop, otherwise Trade-a-plane usually has a bunch of advertisements.

Ah, yes. Fluoridated water. That's why I only drink rainwater and pure grain alcohol. You gotta love "Dr. Strangelove"!

This one is FAA-PMA for every Mooney model except the M20A or B. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/sts-12a24a.php http://www.lamartech.com/files/128975167.pdf