Andy95W

@tmo- no, I was talking about the really old ones. But IIRC the concept is the same, the eyeball/guideblock should be able to move a little to allow the yoke shaft to pivot slightly up and down as the shaft slides in and out.

You could get your CFI certificate, and then do that part time. When hiring heats up again at the airlines, flight schools will be glad to have someone who they know isn't going to leave as soon as they get 1500 hours. Then you may just have to live with the fact that your family is never going to fly with you, even on vacation, but at least you'll be flying regularly without significant expense. And who knows, maybe one of your kids will one day express an interest to fly when they see you doing it. Good luck.

And, luckily for all of us with carbureted engines, they've all been approved by Lycoming to run on 94UL. So when/if 100LL goes away, hopefully it'll be a fairly simple airframe approval for us.

Well, from 1992 to 1997 the hangars at KILE were pretty nice.

Here's one for 20 bucks. Even mentions airplanes in the write up. https://www.amazon.com/Non-Contact-Handheld-Tachometer-Rotational-Measuring/dp/B07FM2Y6Z9/ref=asc_df_B07FM2Y6Z9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343187910376&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1629442965056569980&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016902&hvtargid=pla-724128135766&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=69721953515&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343187910376&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1629442965056569980&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016902&hvtargid=pla-724128135766

Yowza. God bless America.

On your first start of the day, something is preventing sufficient voltage from getting to your starter. Really only two things can be causing that- the battery or a bad connection. A parasitic voltage draw even with everything turned off can drain a battery so it acts like yours. After it starts and the alternator charges the battery back to full capacity, all subsequent starts are fine. When you did your capacity check, was it after the plane had been sitting a while, or was it shortly after flying/charging? Dirty or loose connections can show themselves too on the first flight of a day. Add a little heat and vibration and the connections make better contact for subsequent starts. Likewise, I've seen battery relays and starter relays make intermittently bad contact due to carbon buildup on the contractors. Sometimes "exercising" the master switch and starter switch a few times will result in better current flow. That will also let you know which one needs replacement. Good luck, keep us posted!

The government actually has a reimbursement rate (mileage) for privately owned airplane, very similar to privately owned vehicle. You don't have to have a commercial driver's license to be reimbursed mileage in your car. GSA Announces 2019 Mileage Rates The General Services Administration annouced the 2019 calendar year (CY) official temporary and relocation travel mileage rates per GSA FTR Bulletin 19-03. Rates apply to travel and relocation performed on or after 1 January through December 31, 2019. TDY Travel: Privately owned car: $0.58 Privately owned motorcycle: $0.55 Privately owned airplane: $1.26

The Interav alternator and PlanePower voltage regulator is a great combination and nearly bulletproof. Most likely you have either a diode going bad like you mentioned, or worn brushes that are starting to arc. An alternator overhaul will fix all of that for less money than any other option. It's a common enough alternator that multiple vendors will work on them. Let us know how it goes!

It was flown very regularly, until the man died about a month ago. He wasn't instrument rated and didn't have ADS-B, so nothing will really show up on Flightaware. The STEC and mods are why I wanted to ask folks around here. I've seen some M20Cs not as nice as this one advertised for $40k, and decent ones with mid-time engines but no autopilot actually selling for $40k.

I thought I'd put this up to the expertise here, particularly those who've been looking at buying an older Mooney lately. From 1992-2003, I owned N2997L, a 1967 M20C with electric gear. My wife and I became good Oshkosh friends with the current owner and his wife. Recently, our friend died and I'm trying to help the widow determine a good price for the airplane. Their local EAA chapter is cleaning it up and getting it ready for posting for sale. In 2003, it was very well maintained and clean. It looks 17 years older now, but appears to be well taken care of. Paint and interior 25 years old, probably rank about 7 or 8. So, how much do you think it's worth, if everything else checks out (no corrosion or significant issues). PROs: - STEC 30 Autopilot - every speed mod available from the LASAR catalog CONs: - high time engine- 1950+ hours - no ADS-B - no IFR GPS Thanks for your help.

Nearly always, it is the gasket that needs replacement. That part number is 610202-003. When installing, do not overtorque the screws.

That top photo looks like KMCO. Just quieter than usual.

I must be wrong about the GPS/COM version. The GPS/ADSB version (375) is dealer only, so I just assumed. Luckily I have a good COM 2, or I would've missed out!

I'm doing it myself, so I had to get the 175. The others are only available for installation through a Garmin dealer. I'm so slow I'm not sure you can glean a good estimate of hours from me. I think for a competent avionics shop, 8-12 hours for the 175 installation would be a good number, and 30-40 hours for the dual G5/175 installation that I'm doing with interface to an STEC autopilot. My installation will probably end up being on the order of 70-80 hours. If I were to do another, it would probably be 40-50. But again, I'm slow.

White. Like Phil said above, night vision isn't very critical. And we've got so many landing lights with so much candlepower even landing is almost like daytime. But in my Mooney I still use the old red lens torpedo lights. (But I haven't been single engine night current in years, and I'm okay with that.)

I just did the same. Installation is going very well, most straightforward avionics installation I've ever done. Are you doing the work yourself/with an A&P/IA? If not, then the recommendation to get the GNC-355 GPS/COM is very good.

Yes, a 1/2 ATI will fit in a 3 1/8" hole. Your avionics shop (or you, if you're handy) can fabricate one. I got one from Sandia, who makes a 1/2 ATI transponder. They might sell you one. I'll add this, since you're Canadian-

MooneySpace- helping members spend money since 2008.

Yes, ridiculous. You can always buy the Goodyear or Michelin tires. At least then the tube will cost less.

I used to work at a maintenance shop attached to a flight school. We replaced a lot of tires, but we reused the tubes. After a few years, we'd replace the tubes also when they started to look fuggly. The difference with our (non-flight school) airplanes is that most tires are only replaced every 5, 10, or 15 years or so. By that point the tube might be in good shape, but the valve stem that is exposed to ozone, violet light, heat, etc. is what I don't trust. And like Rich said, it's embarrassing when you can't taxi your airplane. And if you have inner gear doors, you'll probably damage those, too.

You're going to have to remove the top cowling, which means you'll have to remove the right side cowling. You may be able to get away with only removing the upper half of the screws for the right side and then finagle the top off enough to pull the battery. The battery box is held in with three fasteners that go through the firewall, but you have to remove the battery to get them out. The good news is that Mooney realized this, and redesigned the cowling for 1966. Doesn't help you or me, though. Lastly- the big orange booty looking thing should be slid onto the terminal that goes into the relay on the firewall, just above the battery box.

I just saw a Garmin webinar about database updates two days ago (part of the whole "Spirit of Aviation" week done by EAA in lieu of Airventure). The Garmin webinar said all navigation data is unreachable after 180 days.

I know a guy who had his iPad stolen out of his car. The thing is, he left his windows open and his car unlocked. Do I blame the thief for stealing? Yes. Do I think the guy was a dumbass? Also yes.

Yes- it's all good as long as somebody takes responsibility for it. But thus far the G3X hasn't been added yet, and that was the original topic of the thread. I think it took 2-3 years for the IFD/G5 interface to be added to the approvals. Not sure if the G3X will be faster or slower.