Andy95W

I used 6-32 rivnuts with 1/2” oval head countersunk screws with beauty washers. Do it during annual inspection with the belly panels off so you can make sure you won’t drill into anything critical. The nap of the carpet ends up covering the screw/beauty washer so they end up being invisible. Very secure, but probably the most work of any solution.

@Skates97 put 90° tubes on his M20C. He can probably provide some good insight, and hopefully a picture.

The best person to involve in this conversation is @Cody Stallings, who owns a prop shop and gives very good advice. One of the things he’s said over the years is that Aeroshell #6 breaks down over time and will separate out the oil component, which then gets spit out. Aeroshell #5 is much better and doesn’t separate, and is chemically compatible with the #6, so it can be swapped out a little at a time each annual. The only negative is that #5 is not usable in the same temperature range. The limit for the #5 is (I believe) -20°C, which means for an M20C isn’t much of a restriction. But Cody will be along soon and correct anything I said wrong.

Concorde AGM batteries are very sensitive to voltage, mainly high voltage, which can ruin them quick. Flooded (wet cell) batteries are much more tolerant of high voltage, all that really happens is the water boils out faster than it should- but that gets checked and added back every annual. There is a chart in the Concorde manual of recommended charging voltage based on temperature. Basically, if your voltage regulator is set for 13.9-14.1 volts, it should be happy and last a long time. If that’s not the culprit for you, I’m at a loss.

Yes, the 10-176487-121 is the correct replacement per the newest Mooney Parts Manual. Brand new ones are about $550 from Aircraft Spruce. A more cost effective option is to buy a used one from a fellow Mooneyspace member or off eBay, and then have your mechanic give it a once-over before installation. He should install a new capacitor and file/adjust the points. This option will cost about $200-300. But Anthony, above, mentioned the best option- install an electronic magneto replacement like the Surefly. For that money, you’ll come out ahead over the 2000 hour TBO of your engine.

He last visited January 20, 2010. Probably got tired waiting for an answer.

Manufactured 4th Quarter 1974 (4Q74)

I always love it when people point out the 60 mph/2000 hour car comparison. Fact is, your car engine at 60 mph is loafing at about 25% power. When you can run your car at 120 mph for 2000 hours I’ll listen. As far as unleaded fuel, FADEC, liquid cooling, etc., you’ll get no argument from me. But it raises a good question: After decades of electronic ignition, electronic fuel injection, and computer controlled car engines, why are guys building brand new RVs putting Lycomings in them? Are you seriously suggesting that those Experimental builders are also wedded to “good enough”?

The point is this. Our engines do a remarkably efficient and reliable job of producing 65-80% power for 2000 hours. Could you gain a few percentage points here or there of efficiency? Sure. But why would you spend $50-100k to gain a few percentage points? And as Rich pointed out above, lots of people have been talking about and proposing these same ideas for decades. Is it possible that they are all idiots and too stupid to bring them to fruition? Not likely. And we regurgitate these same discussions regularly, most recently last April.

I went to the local Tractor Supply store and bought $3 worth of 3/8” washers (they sell them by the pound). Pressed those into every turn of the spring, then used duct tape where necessary to hold them in place. Unlocked the gear, swung it part way, and removal was easy.

-Cheaper than a Cessna 172 -Faster than a 172 -More useful load than a 172 -Uglier than a 172 -Not quite as forgiving or easy to fly as a 172 -Very good airplane to learn to fly in, especially at the price -If buying, make sure the fabric and steel structure are in good shape

I’ve never done it on a prop flange bushing, but I’ve used the socket method often on other areas. I’ve never had a problem and it’s worked very well every time. Go slow, watch every part carefully as you apply torque to the bolt. When it’s going right, it’ll surprise you how little effort it actually takes to remove bushings. If it were me, I’d try the socket method first. If at any moment I didn’t have a warm, fuzzy feeling about the process, I’d stop and buy the tool. To install the new bushing, you can use the same method. If you freeze the bushing first, it’ll likely pop in with very little effort.

After paying the $$$ for dual G5s plus their installation, a new flat panel would be a relatively minor up charge. And you’ll be much happier in the long run.

The 8 letters that can separate you from your paycheck!

Ah yes, the short-lived Twin Comanche 800. ”Fast as hell for an hour and a half”

I can’t believe we’ve revived a nearly 3 year old thread and are now arguing about it again.

Actually, $1400 will get you rudder trim. STC’ed for all Mooney models except the M18 for almost 30 years. http://www.aerotriminc.com/id2.html

Good question, Jim, but it’s really not as cut-and-dried as you’d think. For me, on a 150+ mile trip, I’ll usually file IFR. Less than 150 miles, I’ll file if I need to file due to weather or weird airspace. But late fall in Michigan means icing in the clouds, so if the ceilings are less than 3000 feet, I’ll go VFR.

No promises, but you should call Plane Plastics. They may not have the part listed in their catalog, but there's a good chance they have it or can make it. That's what happened to me when I needed a speaker cover, which also wasn't listed in their catalog. When I called, the lady I spoke to knew exactly what I needed and got it made (they had the mold). Bonus: it wasn't even very expensive ($150 or so).

Why not just have David install the G5 HSI and connect it straight to the GNC 355? That way you'd have the KX155 connected to its CDI and the GPS to the G5. That is exactly what I did and it's fantastic. I'm perfectly fine not having an ILS indication on the G5, and the installation was simplified. The installation itself is very straightforward, David can do it himself as an A&P/IA and get the unit from Aircraft Spruce. Let him know Andy is available to answer questions. It is fairly extensive, and I'm not sure if he has the time to do it himself.

Buyer: "There’s a tear in the seat, I’d like you to take $500 off the price.” Me: ”No.”

The biggest lesson I took from his video is: "Don't post videos on the internet that show you forgetting to latch the baggage door during your preflight inspection". No, I don't buy his excuse that it must've come unlatched by itself.

I have one OAT on my JPI, and one that reads on the G5. I got them close, but couldn't make them match exactly. I changed the G5 readout to Celsius. Problem solved!

For takeoff or landing? What about crosswinds? Sometimes the debates themselves are up for discussion...