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Andy95W

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Everything posted by Andy95W

  1. I'm not at all convinced that you'll need a new hub. For 50 years these props were just fine on our Mooneys. Then some cracks started to appear in 300 HP applications, and agricultural airplanes, and acrobatic airplanes. Next thing you know there's an AD for those applications. Next thing you know there's an addition to that AD to include our relatively low powered Mooneys. Yes, I believe some hubs will crack. All I really know is that an awful lot of us are getting the 100 hour inspections and very few are writing in to say they failed and need a new hub.
  2. Couldn't have said it better myself!
  3. http://www.hangartoolbox.com/Instructions/mooneyshockdisctool.aspx I'll be replacing mine in the next month. I'm going to put in full fuel and hope to be able to do the mains without the tool. Might grab a couple friends to sit on the wings, or only one of Marauder's girls.
  4. Why would someone pay perfectly good money to go through that? I got paid for it, never could understand it the other way...
  5. Ryan- high amperage flowing through the wiring going to the main electrical bus bars- just behind the instrument panel from the big circuit breakers marked Generator. Bet your copilot intercom jacks are in close proximity, and may even be secured to that wiring. That would be why the noise goes away when the generator isn't on line or you change to isolate. First try re-routing the wiring, then making sure shielded wiring was used in your intercom wiring- and that the shielding is actually grounded.
  6. Unit no; company yes, and they are fantastic. I have spoken with quite a few of their employees at OSH. All very helpful. Found out that one of the guys was the owner/founder/president. He began his life with avionics working for a man named Mr. King, but left when the business was sold and merged with Bendix. He liked working for the smaller company that still believed in good customer service. I bought their transponder and think it's the best I've ever installed or used. They are working on an ADS-B solution using the UAT network. When it's done I intend to buy and install it.
  7. Normally I'd agree, but the OP has lost over 160 pounds from his useful load and doesn't have an extra 160 pounds of stuff. Decent possibility of miscalculation of W&B somewhere along the way by a mathematically challenged A&P.
  8. "Pontifical" for a crack to form? I'm not Catholic, so I had no idea the pope had so much power. Perhaps I should convert...
  9. I thought the mod was to fill the hub with red-dyed oil and seal it. If no red dye leaks, then no cracks. Edit- just read Daver's post. Yeah, what he said!
  10. I never really liked the hub cap/dust cover idea. Too hard to check or fill the tires. My suggestion: paint and new hardware.
  11. Don't know about your part number, but thanks for posting the parts manual!
  12. Mac angle headed wrench for the hard to get to nut. Funny thing is, a Snap On angle headed wrench won't work, nor a Craftsman. Only the Mac. I'll probably buy the Tempest wrench anyway.
  13. The cleanest way to add a switch is to get a Bob Fields Inflateable Door Seal switch. It is a simple pneumatic switch, just like the button on the yoke, but it looks exactly like an electric toggle switch and it is either on or off. You put a t-fitting in the small line that goes to the yoke switch so that either switch dumps the vacuum. You could hook it up in lieu of the yoke switch in order to install a push to talk, but that gets into the realm of Major Alteration. (Not that anybody would notice)
  14. The A&P can farm out the work and inspect it for airworthiness, just like you did, then make a logbook entry for it. Only problem is finding someone who is willing to do so.
  15. Luckily for all of us they are not flimsy cork gaskets like some airplanes use. I guess since I am my own A&P/IA, I'll keep myself safe, and I replace every gasket, o-ring, and filter required on schedule. You found a mechanic you like and trust, and I won't fault that.
  16. In 14 years of Mooney ownership, I've replaced it once. The only fluid pressure on the gascolator is from gravity, and the gasket is made from good material. If it doesn't leak with the proper torque on the bolt, it's okay.
  17. Sure hope you kept the KR-86 ADF when you did your upgrade. Those are going for almost $200 on eBay!
  18. For the Original Poster- you should contact r bridges and offer to buy his KMA24 and PS1000. The KMA-24 is probably the most bullet proof audio panel out there and still looks good in any panel. The PS 1000 is practically the industry standard for intercoms. Definitely the Cheapest B@$tard solution. Guess what I have in my panel?
  19. Agree with this entire post except the 337. Technically, an audio panel installation does not meet the FAA's definition of a Major Aleration, so it does not require a 337. A 337 is recommended as an additional, detailed record of the installation, including ICA's. Or so says my FSDO to me.
  20. I I'll have to actually look inside the Baggie and try out all the different earplugs. I liked the yellow foam ones so much I didn't even try the others. Astounding all the stuff I don't know...
  21. It is audio input. I bought mine last OSH and specifically asked Phil that question. Speaking of which, Phil McCandless owns the company and an M20B, he posts here regularly. If you have any questions, give him a call. Very friendly and helpful.
  22. Wasn't there a thread recently that talked about poor customer service and high repair costs for Garmin audio panels? And that you had to have a Garmin Dealer to even just remove the audio panel for repair? PS Engineering- any A&P can install.
  23. Five years! Wow, I just got mine last Oshkosh. Which ones are the silicone? I've only been using the yellow foam thus far.
  24. The unbound boomerang piece has all of its edges hidden by other pieces of carpeting. The partially bound piece with the rounded front edge goes on top of the nose gear hump with the bound edge toward the cabin.
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