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  1. I thought this was an auction for oxygen equipment and was wondering why it was so expensive.
    7 points
  2. A low(ish) pattern, overshooting final, heavyweight, unexpected return, new owner, distraction from wind/noise… there are lots of things stacked against them. None of them should be fatal by themselves or even together, but they do increase the risk.
    5 points
  3. Most of the capabilities are driven by software and Garmin has more software updates than Microsoft or Apple . The only way to be sure is to get with your avionics shop and carefully review the frequently updated proprietary installation manuals which should describe the limitations. The current version 6 of the G3X AFMS still says that the GI 275 will not drive the GFC 500 If the G3X or GSU 25D fails (the G5 will), and the G3X will not display comparison alerts from between the GSU 25D and the GI 275. The G5 is cheaper, better integrated with the G3X, and has a longer battery run time than the GI 275. Personally, I would still choose it if I were designing a G3X panel today.
    5 points
  4. Totally subjective at this point, but if the base leg did have a 10 knot tailwind, then with some anxiousness to get on the ground, an overshoot of final (and from the track that looks to be the case) could have caused the classic cross controlled base to final stall? Just hypothesizing with no basis in fact... Obviously, we need the final accident report to shed more light on the situation. The pilot seemed pretty calm initially about a simple return for landing and closing the door.
    4 points
  5. Here's the real scoop: "Despite false rumors and misinformation that the hugely popular Garmin GNS-series navigators are at the end of their service life, Garmin says that 99 percent of GNS users can keep using their units. Moreover, the Garmin factory will still continue to support common repairs and refurbishments as it has for the past 25 years."
    4 points
  6. You must be in Canada. If we had an AME looking over our shoulder in the U. S. he would be doing our physical, and I'm not sure I'd want him back there (https://www.faa.gov/ame_guide/standards)
    4 points
  7. There is a software bug in the G3X (v9.15 and earlier). According to the AFMS, if the GMU 11 fails the G3X is supposed to display a red X over amber HDG and display magenta GPS TRK on the HSI. But, instead, it continues to display white HDG as normal. What is happening is that the logic is not switching to TRK upon GMU failure and the ADSU 25D is continuing to compute HDG but without GMU input so the heading will drift over time. The G5 does properly switch to TRK. I don't have a GI 275, so I don't know how it behaves. I reported it to Garmin and after some back and forth, Support was able to reproduce it and passed it on to Engineering for resolution.
    3 points
  8. @PT20J I hope that you’re writing a book with all your experiences… you could pitch it to everyone that buys a G3X!
    3 points
  9. Bringing the plane for maintenance and practicing my new commute yesterday. Nearing the Crazy Mountains, between Livingston and Harlowton, in south-central Montana, 13K.
    3 points
  10. That is not correct. The one that was all over youtube was at cruise speed and is the only one I'm aware of that departed the aircraft. Many here have reported one coming open on the t/o roll or after t/o with a normal landing to follow. From the overhead shots of this wreck, the baggage door appears to be open and attached to the plane, and the overhead shots appear to be taken before any first responders were on the scene. -dan
    3 points
  11. Hey David I this past weekend lost my pitch trim servo, figuring I have a 3-5000 expense, I got lucky my avionics man found a loose pin on the servo plus the other pin was missing unbelievable he found the pin in the back belly of the Acclaim. He said it’s his second Mooney that had this issue, changed the captan pins good to go. At his mercy he could have said it was a bad servo and nailed me for a major repair. So many things can go wrong or occur gotta be diligent luckily I lost it landing at home airport. D
    3 points
  12. Never thought I’d learn so much about the handling qualities of shopping carts on MooneySpace!
    3 points
  13. I believe you meant castor, not camber.
    3 points
  14. It always amazes me that we cannot accept that the best solution has already been discovered. A lot of people must think the people in the past were just stupid. Sure, we have made great strides in electronics, but when it comes to chemistry, I think most of the great discoveries were made a century ago.
    3 points
  15. Not long ago somebody contacted me when they took they Mooney to Fort Lauderdale to get their tanks redone. Unfortunately they had this efc100 in their tanks. I told him what I did and told is tank guy to contact me. Apparently 15,000 psi water jet is needed to remove this garbage. I was replacing my spar cap. I used a propane torch to heat a thick metal putty knife. The hot blade removed excess polyurethane where it was thick and needed to be removed to remove and install hiloks and rivets. A heat gun was also used along with a temp sense gun to not over heat the metal. I did no remove all of it, just where it was disturbed to facilitate structure repair. Before I came up with this technique, I disturbed the whole tank. I ended up coating the entire tank with the seskents and process called out in the mooneys manual. Plane might be test flown before the end of the year. Glenn
    3 points
  16. Looks like the Navy is going to pay someone to develop a process for removing the stuff. https://govtribe.com/opportunity/federal-contract-opportunity/e-6b-sealant-removal-and-replacement-n0001923rfpreqapm2710068synopsis
    3 points
  17. Apparently it's awesome until something needs to be repaired or reworked, or even worse, stripped. Then you're screwed.
    3 points
  18. William the paint scheme and color combo gets more remarks actually from the towers and ground than my other planes. It’s awesome looking although I’m a little biased.
    3 points
  19. Another simple test (that I learned from the Concorde rep) is to watch the system voltage during engine start (while the starter motor is running). If the voltage sags too much during start it may mean that your battery capacity is reduced. I neglected to ask him how much is too much on a 12V battery. Their example was a turbine engine starting with a 24V battery that sagged to 12V during start and actually couldn't continue the start. Turbines are in danger of a hot start when that sort of thing happens (i.e., $$$ engine rebuild). A year ago last July I did a load capacity test on my six-year-old Concorde and it tested to >95%. Recently I noticed that during a start it'll sag to 9V, so I need to pull it out and do another capacity check, but I suspect it is either getting near replacement or needs a rehab cycle.
    3 points
  20. First, I have a custom car shop I have worked with building the seats to my specs. So, I can’t elaborate on specific upholstery techniques. I also did not have the time to learn all the trades required in that project. I wanted it finished by the time my new engine arrived and there was a long list of other items on the airplane that needed attention. There are a lot of details involved in the interior. I encourage you to source a local vendor as I did unless you have a lot of time on your hands. Also, taking the interior out is at least half a day and there is a bit of technique involved. Getting it back in will be a bit longer I believe. Because of the limited space inside the airplanes any seats that are reupholstered need to be copies of the seats that were removed more or less. The leather was cut using the existing ultra suede covers as a pattern. Existing foam was used where it was still good, replaced if bad and augmented with new where we wanted it stiffer or fuller. I used burn certified leather. I used the 3 layer memory foam, and “back saver” foam from Aircraft Spruce. I’m sure there are plenty of other types. It had good reviews and is already burn certified so that was good enough for me. I took advantage of the rebuild to clean, paint and lubricate the seat as well. Doing the interior yourself is totally doable and you learn a lot about your airplane as well. I highly recommend hiring out the seats and anything else that you are recovering. If you are just doing the seat foam and reusing the covers you will have to research foam types and use trial and error to get it right. It sounds like some time invested would be required but I think that is doable on your own. If you want me to quote your seats for you message me. Hope that helps.
    3 points
  21. We went down to Spain to chill and eat some paella Found it, it’s the new clouds factory over the Loire river !
    3 points
  22. Yup, both tanks were looked at and had some preventive sealing applied. I’m using Scheme Designers to help in developing a good layout. I should have something from them in three weeks or so.
    2 points
  23. Rainy day, was out at the hangar cleaning the airplane and saw something that didn’t look right. I was cleaning the top near the baggage door and the hinge looked loose. Maybe the last 3 or 4 hinges weren’t exactly lined up. Went around and looked from the other side and found a good few inches of the wire pulled through. Not sure how that happens, and I’m guessing door departure wasn’t imminent, but it didn’t feel good. I got it pushed back in and will have to keep an eye on it.
    2 points
  24. Not that this possibly-a-transient guy would know this, but until very recently (gone now but as recently as a couple years ago?) the TPA at SGJ was published as 800. It was definitely 800 when I did my PPL there in 2007 and it was the outlier that I used to point my students to. Guess the FAA finally changed it. Anyway, if he was a local, this wouldn’t necessarily be uncommon.
    2 points
  25. Comparing autos (and airplanes) to bicycles and motorcycles may be confusing because each vehicle has it's own terminology for the same geometric parameters. Here's a picture from Wikipedia showing that a bicycle has, what in automobiles is called, positive caster. We're talking about caster (steering axis angle), bicycle manufacturers talk about trail. But the idea is the same: the tire contact point is behind the extended steering axis.
    2 points
  26. Add to that… they may well have had a full bag of gas, which is way cheaper at St. Augustine than at Homestead. Speaking only for myself…. I seldom land at max landing weight and NEVER at 3368 MTOW. Stall speed really goes up at heavy weight and high bank angle. 57 KIAS at a normal wings-level 3000# landing vs 72/85 @ 45/60* bank and MTOW. AOA warning, if installed, would have been screaming if this is what happened. -dan
    2 points
  27. I believe George Perry has some Hi-Rez photos of his plane that he posted on here in flight. It’s exactly as it does on the ground. If it’s low sitting in the chocks, it’s low in cruise.
    2 points
  28. Regarding the topic of airspeed indicating inaccurately with the door open, I would suspect it is the flow disturbance over the static ports that cause it. The static port locations are not only to get accurate altitude, but airspeed as well. Not quite the same, but on some jets, even a ridge in a paint stripe at the wrong location could cause some splits in airspeeds.
    2 points
  29. I would expect high resistance failures of either Tempest or current production Champion plugs to be rare. The problem was with older Champion plugs that had the removable resistor. Champion now has a design similar to Tempest. If your mechanic is having this many failures, I would suspect his test rig or method.
    2 points
  30. If I'm reading the Concorde manual correctly, you need to test at a 1C discharge rate; for the RG-35XC, that's 35 Amps. This was the best (lowest cost $175 with shipping) I could find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/KP184-Electronic-Precision-Capacity-Resistance/dp/B0CD7LM5R3/ref=sr_1_25?crid=3CVYHWD9YT856&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.meSQGHU_0ms1CUhVP44jui5B1Ii4jaBAZwoRbVJYuWvpE-77y6RjlF4zetq_qFoGXoaK_YrLGBUy9ipYP4rZ2TJ8M2tW3auiH_k25ZcEmn6-eHUZcJ_A4ecpGxXcOFUdYqF44jFo-v67GKx7fG4zeb-82UNWJP43TUl3LthaSHxn6LY__ClJEGbxfst9g_lI.J-5J-SIRZd163ZfSklVG7GtXxHZa0eQsH3l9pVlilWo&dib_tag=se&keywords=battery+capacity+tester+kp184&qid=1711387539&sprefix=battery+capacity+tester+kp184%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-25
    2 points
  31. Replacing and servicing batteries is specifically listed as Preventive Maintenance in FAR 43 Appendix A, so owner/operators can do that task. While the battery is out you can capacity test and recharge it. There are a number of ways to test capacity and imho the constant-current loads that you can get from amazon or elsewhere are a good way to do it, but require some effort. The old-school way was to hook up a bunch of headlights or landing lights, but it's not a very well controlled technique so accuracy will suffer. Whatever you do, use the Concorde battery CMM as your guide: https://batterymanagement.concordebattery.com/BatteryDocs/5-0171.pdf Here's an example load tester, there are cheaper ones depending on what you need. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09925SZF3
    2 points
  32. I have a book from 1939 titled Aircraft Maintenance. Most of the charts and tables in 43-13.1B are from this book. It’s like it used this book as the foundation for it.
    2 points
  33. I think you are chasing your tail. First, you have a new engine, go fly it hard for a while, only concern is not to let the temps go over 400. Then check which cylinder might have a different probe location, just so you know. Then go learn all about the Gami 'spread'. Once you understand which cylinder peaks first, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and how the EGT's and CHT's follow one another (or not) you will start to understand why one cylinder is hotter than the rest. Is more likely unbalanced fuel and air rather than cooling and baffles. And then cylinders are just different, both in manufacture, location on the engine, baffling, airflow etc. I don't think you have an unreasonable spread at all. Aerodon
    2 points
  34. I did talk to a ranger before going in, they returned my call after I left a message. They had the airport closed for a week to sweep some of the gravel from the runway, but they did not do anything about the cracks or bumps. I heard from someone else that they are considering closing the airport permanently, it is too much of a headache for the park service and it gets them nothing in return (??). My experience was so-so. Neither landing nor taking off seemed to be a problem with soft field technique (I don't think the bumps were big enough to do any damage to the landing gear, I taxied very slowly on the left side of runway 15, which is where I also landed, iirc). The runway is definitely much worse than that at L09, Stovepipe Wells, where I had gone in January. This might be something to consider if you have some transportation while there or don't care how far you go from the airport. We wanted to see Badwater Basin by bike, and that was too far from L09, that's why the second time we went to L06. However, after both flights to Death Valley (L09 and L06) I found nicks in the prop, I guess from gravel picked up from the runway. Even after the sweep there was still plenty of it at L06. Nothing major -- my mechanic was able to file the nicks in about 20 minutes, but something to keep in mind. I did not do a run up before takeoff, did not want to increase damage to prop. If you do go there make sure to bring ropes with you -- there are steel cables but nothing attached to them (both at L06 and L09). Maybe also bring some chocks -- where I parked at L06 the cable for tying down the tail was missing, so I was only able to tie down the wings.
    2 points
  35. https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/builderresources/while-youre-building/building-articles/cowlings/the-installation-and-use-of-piano-hinges
    2 points
  36. The reviews of that switch says they are easy to turn off. I’ve noticed this too. Plus they feel cheap and you need to cut a hole to mount this. Not a fan.
    2 points
  37. I’m really surprised that someone hasn’t developed a portable one with ability to wireless connect to your EFB. You can buy $25 lightning detectors.
    2 points
  38. The engine mount on my M20J is attached with 4 AN4 bolts which each have a shear strength of 3730 lbs. The engine and prop weigh around 400 lbs and with a 1.5 factor of safety and a max load factor of 3.8 g that’s the equivalent of 2280 lbs. When we weighed my airplane, the weight on the nose wheel was only 639 lbs. Seems like the engine mount is plenty strong. However, I do what 90% of mechanics do and use a tail weight.
    2 points
  39. Does either Continental or Lycoming recommend this? If you use AD oil and change it frequently, it keeps the gunk suspended (that’s why it turns black). Straight mineral oil will form sludge and Lycoming recommends not switching to AD oil if you’ve been running mineral oil for a long time because the detergents loosen the sludge and can cause it to clog oil passages.
    2 points
  40. Repainting procedure is in the Cleveland manual. AWBCMM0001-12.pdf
    2 points
  41. If you use your plane for ifr (or anything else where the battery is critical), please get a legit cap check once in a while. The “sag” test might give you a ballpark idea, but it’s not a real test. A battery that fails the capacity test can still start the engine fine but will die quickly if you lose your alternator.
    2 points
  42. Why did you remove the brake caliper? Now you will have to bleed the whole system. If I do remove the caliper, I quickly cap the hose. I fill the caliper with fluid and quickly reconnect the hose. A couple of peddle pumps out the bottom and the brakes are good as new.
    2 points
  43. Non pressurized turbines answer a question that no one is asking.
    2 points
  44. Collar thick side up. We had to flip this over to get fore aft position aligned. Thick side down (or add a shim) moves the nose wheel aft.
    2 points
  45. Here is a current article from Mike Busch (just a few days ago) and the link to a Wings seminar he is putting on. https://www.savvyaviation.com/ending-the-war-on-jugs/ Here is the FAASafety Seminar: "Ending the War on Jugs" Topic: Safety information to determine cylinder condition and tips to remedy issues prior to removal. On Wednesday, April 3, 2024 at 19:00 Central Daylight Time (17:00 PDT; 18:00 MDT; 20:00 EDT; 14:00 HST; 16:00 AKDT; 17:00 Arizona; Thursday, April 4, 2024 00:00 GMT) Select Number: GL13127672 Description: Historically, the rule A&Ps were taught about cylinders was simple: If the compression reading was less than 60/80, the cylinder had to come off for repair or replacement, period. This works well for mechanics, who are always happiest when they have clear-cut guidance to follow. But it was bad news for aircraft owners, who have to shell out several thousand dollars each time a jug gets yanked, and occasionally suffer catastrophic engine failure when the cylinder installation isn't done precisely right. In recent years, we've developed far more effective methods of assessing cylinder condition, catching problems early, and remediating them without the need for costly and risky cylinder removal. In this webinar, Mike Busch discusses these modern methods, techniques, and practices. To view further details and registration information for this webinar, click here: http://www.faasafety.gov/SPANS/event_details.aspx?eid=127672 The sponsor for this seminar is: FAASTeam
    2 points
  46. lol, I love my undeserved reputation for power here :). If only the reality matched! In all seriousness, we advise many people not to get a pre buy from a mechanic on field with the airplane or a mechanic that regularly maintains the plane…. It seems reasonable to practice what you preach. Also, there’s just a built in conflict here - is the mechanic supposed to betray a long time customer and blow up a deal by finding something bad they really should have found before? And what if the mechanic missed something then just keeps missing it on the pre buy? Everyone is just more comfortable with the sale if there’s an independent assessment. It’s crazy that even MSC’s won’t respond to a call about a pre buy - I know there’s some MSC shops regularly on MooneySpace, I wonder if they’d chime in about what’s going on? Seems like Mooney pre buys would be a required service for them to provide. Unfortunately, Mooney is not currently authorizing new MSC’s afaik.
    2 points
  47. Since it was experimental, it was probably legal. Years ago there was a big gypsy moth spraying operation. One group staged out of my home field. They had two Ayrs Turbo Thrush aircraft. They were Restricted airworthiness. The fuel placards said USE ONLY - Jet-A, Jet-A1, Jet-B, Jet-B1, JP-4, JP-5, Diesel Fuel - Kerosine, Home Heating Oil, AVGAS 80/97, AVGAS 91/96, AVGAS 100LL, AVGAS 100/130, AVGAS 115/145, MOGAS I loved the ONLY The text wrapped around the filler several times. I was surprised that they did not list Moonshine.
    2 points
  48. This last time I did my brakes, I was alone. Knowing this would be a challenge, I employed the following procedure which worked flawlessly. Tools: Mighty Vac - This is simply a hand pump that draws air out of the system. This inexpensive pump from Harbor Freight or any other brake/clutch bleeder would work just as well. Motive Power Bleeder This is simply a pressure pot the pushes fluid into the system. Any other pressure bleeder would work as well. I have seen garden sprayers repurposed as pressure pots as well. 1/4" AN flare fitting for Hydraulic reservoir. Various fittings and several feet of vinyl tubing in different sizes. Various hose clamps or zip ties. Clean Bucket/Catch can Procedure: Flaps first - Make sure flap lever is in the up position. Attach 4' of clear vinyl tubing to flare side of 1/4" AN fitting and clamp to seal. This will serve as an overflow. Remove plug from fluid reservoir and and thread on AN fitting with tubing. Ensure tubing outlet is in a bucket/Catch can. Fill pressure pot with one qt of Hydraulic fluid. Royco 782 synthetic is superior to 5606 in my opinion. They can be combined if not fully draining the system. Attach pressure pot to the T fitting on the flap actuator with a clamp. This is the lowest point in the system. It is accessed though a small oval panel just ahead of the stub spar. It is a tight space with which to work. Make sure the pressure pot hose is well secured to the fitting and is not kinked. Pressurize pot (30-35PSI is plenty). Get into the plane and watch for fluid at the reservoir overflow tube. As soon as fluid is visible in the hose, begin pumping the flap handle vigorously. You should feel it pulling fluid into the pump cylinder. Exit plane and have actuator T fitting cover on hand. Depressurize pot, then quickly remove hose from T fitting and replace with cover. Clean up hands/remove gloves. Pump flaps do to lock out position and leave them there. Does not matter how many pumps it take at this point Using a straw as a thumb siphon, reduce the fluid reservoir to ~half full Empty catch can into pressure pot move on to the brakes Brakes - Attach pressure pot to bleed nipple on bottom of caliper and secure with clamp or zip tie. Pump pot to 30-35psi Open bleed nipple Get in the airplane and pump the appropriate peddle as fluid is pushed into the system. You will feel fluid enter the brake cylinder. When over flow is noted, get out of plane and close the bleed nipple. remove pressure from pot and disconnect from caliper. Repeat process on other brake circuit Using a straw as a thumb siphon, reduce the fluid reservoir to ~ half full Attach hand vacuum to reservoir. This can be done using the vent on the top of the reservoir or the fill opening; it does not matter which but the other will need to be blocked so it is air tight. Draw the system down to 20- 25inHg and position the pump so that the gauge can be seen from the cockpit Raise deployed flaps while system is under vacuum. Actuate flap handle (lever in up position) and brake peddles from cockpit while system is under vacuum. Release vacuum and test systems. Repeat if needed Remove pump, unblock reservoir vent and go fly. Notes: Not all hydraulic reservoirs are the same. Depending on year, some are welded aluminum cylinders with AN fittings and some look more like a repurposed solvent container. The person servicing the system will have to procure the correct fittings to work with the installed cylinder. Either flaps or brakes can be done independently without doing the other. I personally prefer to start with flaps when doing both. It may take a few days for all of the air to vacate the flap system. The best way to facilitate the process is to pump the flaps 3/4 down and leave them for a day (or a week). If a freshly rebuilt flap pump is being installed, fluid will travel more easily through the system with the retraction speed adjustment screw backed out to max flow. This is not necessary, but may make the process easier. Conversely, if the retraction screw is inadvertently tightened all the way down, fluid will not flow through the system. I welcome comments if it appears I have left anything out.
    2 points
  49. After paint, fuel tanks and a new deltahawk engine, i don't want to hear anyone complain about me selling my E for 300k
    2 points
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