Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/03/2021 in all areas

  1. Wrote up some more details in my blog here.
    3 points
  2. By far my biggest vice is "it wont happen to me". I look back at myself with 250....500...750 hours and realized some of the stuff I used to do that was plain stupid and took me another 750 hours of experience to realize it. And I'm not talking about plainly stupid stuff like buzzing a house at 50AGL or loading 6 friends into a 4-seater- just regular day-to-day stuff that you don't realize. I've got a good story of how I don't blast off on a spontaneous night flight anymore and got a rude wake-up call, but that's something I'll only tell in-person over a cold one. Tomorrow I'm headed to Flight Safety in Wichita for 8 days on a simulator to learn the C208 and the amount of knowledge I've picked up over the past week of indoc alone is perplexing that little Private Pilot me didn't even know existed.
    3 points
  3. The Bravo formerly known as N64HK is sporting a beautiful new paint job, shown here visiting KFXE.
    2 points
  4. Well, I don't find the last statement to be true in my 231. First, yes, a turbo is an exhaust driven turbine, not quite accurate to say it is heat driven. What is it about the heat that drives the turbine, as opposed to the exhaust flow through the turbine. The exhaust flow is hot, of course, but if you blew an equal mass of cold air through at an equal velocity, the turbine would generate the same work. More importantly though, the degrees LOP vs. ROP is a difference in EGT, it is not a difference in CHT. The CHT's generally run quite a bit cooler at 25 LOP than at 50 ROP. It is the CHTs we are concerned with, not the EGTs. EGTs have value only as a relative number (when did that cylinder peak, and how many degrees from peak EGT is that cylinder now), CHTs have value to us as an absolute number. On the last statement, I am able to produce the same power in my engine whether ROP or LOP. When I cruise at LOP, I am at 71% or thereabouts. I have the ability, with a turbocharger, to vary my degrees LOP by increasing MP as well as by decreasing FF. So that is what I do to stay well LOP, I cruise at 34" MP and operate at 71% HP. I can operate at 71% HP on the ROP side also, if I want, but the CHT's will be quite a bit warmer, on the order of 80 degrees or more warmer. The reduction in CHT is not due to extra air being pushed through the cylinders when LOP, just as the reduction in temp when going further ROP than normal is not due to fuel flushing through the cylinder. What is happening in each case, for different reasons, is that the rate of combustion is being changed so that the combustion event is more of a push than an explosion, and less temp is generated. In the LOP case the fire takes longer to find the lesser available fuel, in the ROP case, the fire takes longer to find the lesser available O2. It is the varying of the fuel/air ratio that determines LOP or ROP. The amount of power being produced is the area under a curve, you can have the same area with a short, high peak, and with a lower and more drawn out curve. The lower drawn out curve will generate less heat because, among other things, the max ICP is lower. LOP is easier on an engine because the same power is produced with a less harsh power curve, than ROP. You could, in theory, make the ROP power curve about the same as the LOP curve, but to do it you would have to operate much more ROP than most pilots are willing to do.
    2 points
  5. This is why my right hand is on the center bar above the glare shield on take off. It's very unlikely that my throttle/prop/mixture vernier controls will move by themselves, or quickly in any case. And there will be lots of indicators if they do start to move at all. But the seat letting go, would be an instant event.
    2 points
  6. Reminiscent of Scott's post a while back "a nasty icing signature." The big difference is the big dry zone before we get to the inversion, suggesting that there isn't that much moisture to be trapped, and the temperature -30C. The saturation mixing ratio analysis doesn't seem applicable at 15k feet here. Interesting that you/Scott cut the CAPE from the numbers box. Looking at the chart the moist adiabat line would be to the right of the actual red temp line...i.e. instability...chance of convective clouds reaching 15k, hence icing possible? Robert PS: love these puzzles
    2 points
  7. Now that your bird is fixed I guess they can reopen Oshkosh Airventure!
    2 points
  8. @ basically $3k avg for just the kit, you’d have to sell 34 sets just to pay for the STC, can’t see that happening. Hoping Jose recovers - strokes are no joke... -Don
    2 points
  9. Unless it is really in very bad shape, there are two routes: 1. Send it to Aerocomfort as Anthony @carusoam suggests. Hector will patch it and cover it and it will look very nice. However, doing that from France may be expensive and time consuming. 2. Repair it yourself. This isn't really all that difficult. It is made of ABS plastic. The glareshield is made of two parts. You can remove the underside by working it free with a putty knife and/or long bladed knife inserted between the two parts. Obtain some ABS sheet plastic and repair any damaged flat areas by gluing pieces of sheet plastic to the underside with ABS cement made for joining ABS plumbing pipe. Smaller defects or areas with compound curves or that need to flex can be repaired by cutting fiberglass cloth and covering the defect and coating it with ABS cement. Don't apply more cement than necessary to saturate the cloth to avoid softening the plastic too much. Use two or three layers of cloth. After it is structurally sound, turn it over and sand the top smooth. Patch any holes or low spots with plastic filler such as https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-84145-Permapoxy-Black-Plastic/dp/B00THUUVSU?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1 and sand it down. It may take a few applications. Once it is all smooth spray it with SEM texture coat (there are youtube videos for this) and afterwards sand it and spray it with SEM adhesion promoter followed immediately with SEM satin black color coat (again, there are youtube videos). Glue the two parts back together with silicone glue/sealer (which will hold the pieces together firmly but allow you to get it apart again if necessary in the future) clamping until cured. Skip
    2 points
  10. 39 CFIs so far on the list. Waiting on responses from a couple of folks on their model info and I’ll be cleaning up the list to post and send to @gsxrpilotfor the map.
    2 points
  11. 2 points
  12. Holy smokes. I promise to get you updated! I am currently in Costa Rica and will probably clean up the list and be ready to post a good list here real soon for those looking for transition training and beyond. thank y’all so much for all the support and now I hope to see those folks buying new to them Mooney’s with a good resource to find an instructor to help.
    2 points
  13. Spar Splice is in front of the rear seat, middle of the floor. Just where folks spill drinks in the back ;o)
    2 points
  14. Somehow I'm the only one here who self-identified in the survey thus far as having a resignation problem. In my defense, I'm not quite as bad off as this guy
    2 points
  15. 2 points
  16. Hey all, I'm new here. I have been snooping on here while shopping for my first plane. I was shopping for Cessna 210's and Mooney's. I'm happy to report I'm under contract on this guy! I'm nervous, scared and excited all at the same time. I'm having my mechanic do a pre-buy on it. He's not a Mooney expert. What are some key things to look for on these older models? I'm guessing engine mounts, and leaking fuel tanks, but what else? Any help or idea's would be great. What would be the first thing you would improve on, fix or change? Thanks, https://www.controller.com/listing/for-sale/201610701/1967-mooney-m20c-mark-21-piston-single-aircraft
    1 point
  17. I had dual G5s and the GFC500 autopilot installed and it wasn't much more than two GI-275s and keeping the old autopilot. I've seen numbers around $15k for a dual GI-275 install. A G5 HSI with 29B is about $3k worth of hardware and figure probably another $3k for install. You need the temp widget for winds and TAS I think either way. I have it and get both on the G5s. The path you propose will take longer and cost you more in the end. I have a whole KFC-225 system in a box including the KI-256 if you need any pieces to support this upgrade plan.
    1 point
  18. My article was mentioned in RH's special segment with Max Trescot on ODPs.
    1 point
  19. PDC is not CPDLC CPDLC is great for oceanic flights where the alternative is HF going through airinc. I dont think its necessary for GA flights where you are in VHF comms.
    1 point
  20. Take away’s for me since it’s all speculation, let’s mitigate those potential causes in our community. 1. When seat is positioned where you want it—-gently -rock forward then back to FEEL you are hooked. I do this religiously because I had seat slip back when pushed rudder to turn while taxiing. Happy it happened on taxi. 2. Run-up— Exercise the Trim stop to stop. Admittedly I slack here. But not so moving forward. 3. A MS’er /A&P/AI posts pics and guidance on that AD from 2012. Hope all have complied, but again?
    1 point
  21. So . . . some of this information will be repeated later, but the 4 blade is not recommended for the 4 cylinder just like the smaller three blade is not recommended for the 300 HP IO550. The Hub has to be engineered to take the power, and the smaller 3 blade would not work on the IO550. The larger hub and 4 blade is not recommended on the 200 HP IO360. I'm not sure if it's not allowed. The most efficient least drag proeller is a single propeller with a counterweight. Then 2 blade, then 3, then 4. and so on. With a turbo, the more blades often the better, especially high HP. The issue is low HP and more blades - it becomes a drag machine and actually harms efficiency. The Mooney Rocket to a 4 blade makes sense - Old mccauley prop design with a turbo. MT did tests on a Cirrus SR22T and SR22. On the SR22T the MT 4 blade provided better performance at all altitudes. On the normally aspirated SR22 with an IO550N (similar to my IO550A), the 4 blade MT was faster until 13,000 feet and then it was slower once the HP died off and it caused more drag. The good news, is I don't tend to fly above 11,000 that often unless I am getting a really good tailwind push and have portable O2 on board (1-3 times per year max normally). Thus, I went with it. Once the engine is broken in I'll have data from 6,000 to 11,000 feet, really 6,000 to 9,000 which is the sweet spot for me. I try not to go above 9,000 often without O2 as I can feel the difference (I have asthma). Thank you for the TBM compliment! -Seth
    1 point
  22. I am not a big three-blade prop fan boy. I think they look kinda dumb. But THAT... the quad... looks bad ass.
    1 point
  23. Tom, That’s the point of my paragraph... The FAA has set hard lines... JPI clearly followed exactly what the FAA said to do... Back in the day, our needles wobbled and everyone accepted the fact that needles wobble... Nobody bothered to discuss that our mechanical controls over things like MP and RPM are not exact during changes... they can overshoot, undershoot, and can be decreasing sinusoids... Today we have an instrument that is sensitive enough to detect and alarm when the needle wobbles 0.1 rpm over the redline... and only stays there for a micro second... That isn’t protecting us or our equipment for any real reason... Tuning down our engines so the JPI doesn’t alarm wouldn’t be a proper response either... See the video where the Mooney plows into a berm because the engine wasn’t producing full power... Sure... set the alarms in accordance with the actual redline... set the engine to control at the redline... It is the other variable... being discussed... the small momentary overspeed or over pressures that come with gross power changes... they exist, we just didn’t look so close... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  24. I’m going out on a limb and assume English isn’t a first language, and this may be a Google translation or something. I believe he’s looking for a removed instrument panel glareshield.
    1 point
  25. If you look at the breakdown of your premium, you'll see their biggest concern is paying for damage to your airplane. That's still more about loss of control, takeoffs and landings, and low-level maneuvering than pressing buttons.
    1 point
  26. The SVS is really easy to remove. A piece of cake on the engine side. If you removed the whole vacuum system , you only need to cap the firewall and the hole in the intake side. the SVS cable inside behind the firewall is a little more involved the vacuum system behind the firewall is a lot more involved to be done right i understand the shop reluctance. It sounds easy from an owner standpoint to just remove 1 item. But very often, it involves taking out seats, avionics stacks , .... to have access
    1 point
  27. What causes the pressure?
    1 point
  28. These discussions come up periodically and usually many parameters and mods are discussed. Bang for the buck 1. Proper rigging is number one to start with. 2. Rearward CG 3. A clean and waxed plane 4. Old antennae’s removed 5. Better air filter....works! And adds at least 1/2 inch of MP I can confirm 1/2 inch but seems like even more higher up. http://donaldsonaerospace-defense.com/library/files/documents/pdfs/007217.pdf 6. Make sure engine mounts are not sagging and engine is aligned properly. The above will yield collectively 5 knots and quite possibly a lot more depending on the plane and how it is set up currently. $$$Buck with some bang 1. Lopresti cowling(may not be available for the k) 2. Get the fin VOR antennae 3. Replace old reverse 7 antennae if on your plane. 4. Mount all external antennae in the wing tips. 5. power flow exhaust(not sure of the effectiveness here) 6. Fancy new prop. 7. New engine assuming the old one is not producing full power. Probably others and I can’t comment on the $$$buck with some bang part due to the economics. I wasn’t willing to commit to.
    1 point
  29. The 150 is worse. I never practiced full flap stalls with students jn the 150 because if they couldn’t retract we couldn’t get back home. Cessna later removed the 40 degrees of flaps
    1 point
  30. I finally made an account!! I was the one who peeled and removed all the black foam. There seems to be confusion about glue and self stick. Just to clarify, the tan/brown glue you are seeing in the pictures my husband posted has nothing to do with the black foam, it is residual glue from the original fiberglass installation (this glue would not come off with anything I tried, however all the fiberglass was removed). The black foam was self-stick. That being said, the black foam is very different than the approved Mooney foam kit. The Mooney foam kit is significantly more porous and light as to not let moisture get trapped and has a very thick gooey anti-corrosive adhesive backing that fills in cracks and crevasses well. The black foam was not as porous and had a harder adhesive (on top of feeling cheap, plasticy, and heavy), so as some of you have noted it could have been the combination of the black foam with the old bumpy glue trapping moisture that caused the corrosion. To rectify, that was the whole point of removing the fiberglass as to avoid moisture-induced corrosion on the steel frame. By replacing with alternative foam instead of the approved kit, you have the potential to create the same moisture-induced corrosion, except this time on the skins. I am a big believer in not cutting corners in aviation, it's expensive in the short-term but manufacturer's parts will save you on labor, money, and prevent damage in the long run if you intend to keep the plane for a long time.
    1 point
  31. The equation used to get BSFC is different depending on whether the engine is running LOP or ROP. On one side Fuel Flow matters and is part of the equation, on the other side it doesn't. Therefore it doesn't make sense to add either numbers to the chart. The chart can be read completely and appropriately using the numbers provided. But as @bluehighwayflyer said, I know how it works and how to use it. I cruise my turbo 252 in the flight levels somewhere between 20° and 30° LOP and enjoy a 35% fuel savings for only a 10% speed penalty. It also keeps my cylinders cool and my turbo happy. And on long flights, nothing says speed like skipping a fuel stop. So when all the ROP guys have to stop for gas, I just keep going
    1 point
  32. Well, I can think of five...six if I had an O vs. an IO.
    1 point
  33. I found out this guy is a pilot, so this is aviation related............ Listen women.mp4
    1 point
  34. Did you order Qty. 4 of the Parmetheus Pro (the lower light in @OSUAV8TER's post above)? If so, that light is only made in one form...it doesn't have a taxi and landing versions like its predecessors. You will be SO impressed with the Pro's performance...a few pics below of my install last year.
    1 point
  35. The 2 quart level is a level that if you fall below will result in engine failure and if doesn’t I believe that oil level supposedly requires an overhaul. The upper level is determined by hours of fuel on board of a standard airplane, then using the max allowable oil consumption multiplied by number of hours of fuel available won’t take you below the min safe level. This is why identical engines in different aircraft will have different min oil levels according to the POH. ‘This is the formula used to determine max oil consumption for Lycoming’s .006 x BHP x 4 ÷ 7.4 = Qt./Hr. https://www.victor-aviation.com/pdf/tech-docs/SI1427B.pdf So if I do the math correctly, and check it cause I often mess up the math, but we are allowed to use .65 quarts per hour and it’s not excessive. So take .65 quarts times the max time aloft we can achieve, add that to two and you will get the min oil level at take off. Understand that’s MIN level, not recommended level and it allows for zero leakage. so a little extra can be similar to having a little extra fuel in the tanks Most engines max level is above the point where it will blow out the excess, the engine manufacturers know that of course but that allowable level may be required in order to ensure some aircraft can use that engine due to the rather long endurance they may have. ‘For some reason STC’d long range or ferry tanks are not accounted for in this oil consumption formula, so it’s possible in theory to run out of oil if your ferrying an aircraft for example, why long range tanks don’t require higher oil levels I can’t explain, it would seem they should. Who would fly a aircraft that burns a half quart an hour?
    1 point
  36. I had #3 cylinder go higher on EGT about 4 flights ago but thought it was an abnormality but we did a fuel pressure check and it was leaking. Easy quick test to do. I’d do that before taking the injector off to clean it.
    1 point
  37. Propeller efficiency is affected by airspeed as well as rpm. Here's a good paper on the subject. cruise_propeller_efficiency_screen.pdf
    1 point
  38. CFII in Seattle, WA Own a M20E. Based at BFI, but willing to travel, willing to do long haul ferry flights. Experience in C/E/F/J/K/R models.
    1 point
  39. Not sure if its the same as the one that came on my ovation, but be careful when you take the bulb out. That colored lens will suddenly liberate itself from the wing tip and if it hits the floor it will cost you $40-80 depending on how good you are at ebay.
    1 point
  40. Charles, Expect that is a precise flight alternative for a back-up vac pump... it uses the vac generated by the intake system... Get that uninstalled before it hurts somebody... That thing was good for about a year... where people noticed it has a lot of limitations.... There is a lot written about them around here... including how to use it... The follow up is a vac pump mounted in the tail... The modern version is a back-up alternator mounted where your primary vac pump just vacated... Have your mechanic verify what needs to get removed... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  41. Don't feel bad about not catching that in the pre-buy. Pre-buys are for catching airworthy items or the items that are thousands of dollars to remedy. You're always going to be dealing with the little stuff as long as you own an airplane.
    1 point
  42. The webcams they have around the US are also a really nice touch.
    1 point
  43. A separate GPSS box is not all that expensive... Many are being thrown to the curb while other displays are getting updated... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  44. I’m not sure; something to think about though. if we are just going to list by forum names so they can find and contact the CFI meeting their needs, I hope they swap real names I surely don’t want someone calling me poor for 5hrs
    1 point
  45. Is leaving actual CFI names off the list a good thing? PP thoughts that come through my mind when I’m seeking a flight instructor... It could be I’m old school... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  46. Welcome aboard Rick, I’m glad you are here... We have at least four known users of Dynon large color screens in their Mooneys, and many more with small Dynon color screens... Let me invite two guys to the conversation that like their Dynon equipment so much... I would think they worked directly for Dynon... @chriscalandro @PilotFun101 They have blank spaces in their panels already... marked Dynon AP goes right here... X It would be greatly helpful... if you could share the likely schedule of this being available for the various Mooney airframes... Around here we have everything from M20A to V... Let us know if you need a hand getting to know Mooneys better... We have three airframe sizes, generally... Short body Mid body Long body With power plants ranging... from 180 to 350hp that can be... Normally aspirated Turbo charged Turbo normalized We have a spreadsheet that covers deeper details if interested... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  47. Nah, nothing to do with rotating the prop by hand or by power strokes or forwards vs backwards by hand. More to do with need for regular mag servicing every 500 hrs or 5 years. The nylon/deldrin gear gets fragile from ozone damage which can be accelerated by internal arcing (misfire). Also sudden stoppage, like a prop strike, can rip the teeth off instantly. Opening them up annually to inspect and complying with the 500 hr/5yr IRAN is the best defense to avoid such surprises. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  48. Ok good luck restoring your files, please let us know when the factory is up and running again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.