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As requested - here’s an intelligible run down of the GFC in a 77 J. hope it’s helpful. b

Taken 9 May, about 40 NM west of Memphis from 7500'. That ribbon of water in the distance is the Mississippi River.

Not in the most recent versions. If you have a in flight level reference you can calculate a pitch attitude offset to use. The level reference is the rivet line above the battery box. It’s about 2.5 ANU on my J. If you don't want to use the pitch offset calculation, you can make your plane level without use of jacks by decreasing the air pressure in the nose wheel and using the same reference line. Whomever did the installation didn't RTFM. You're going to want to do the entire calibration over again with your A&P; save a problem with an early software version, the G5's problems in flight with regard to erroneous attitude indications seem largely related to lack of proper calibration during installation.

Yep, approaches with RF or Radius Fix segments - in the GA world, only the GTN's can fly them. Not really, I don't think you'll find the approach in your database - I don't think you'll ever see a partial approach in the database for all the obvious reasons. But you should see another approach that has the same final approach guidance just with different IAF and no RF segments - at CRQ this is the RNAV Y 24 approach. So from that standpoint it's not like there is any airport that you can't get into without RF leg capability - not yet anyway. Its just a nice capability and fun to fly. You "are approved if you’re appropriately equipped to fly them" -- very true and another important detail, since to fly these you need both a RF Leg capable Navigator (GTN) and an auto-slewing HSI or CDI. But a simple G5 qualifies there. Thanks for playing along. The GTN does have some awesome capabilities including VNAV which I especially appreciate and use on every flight.

It's really easy, just let NorCal know you want the Bay Tour, they'll give you a simple instruction: Stay North and West of the Bay Bridge, usually below 2000 ft, clear of the Bravo. From there you can go wherever you want, over the city, Golden Gate, Alcatraz etc. You can also do it without talking with anyone and just stay out of the airspace, but it's good to have flight following for this IMHO. NorCal is super friendly in my experience and will let you know if you're about to go anywhere they don't want you to be. When you're done just let them know you're leaving and where you're headed to (if you want flight following).

Go read my thread HERE. I bought a "clapped out" M20C for $16k and probably have an additional $30k poured into her over 5 years. Biggest friggin headache ever. Unless you're an A&P I would not suggest it.

The in-wing RCA Weatherscout radars could, on a good day, see a cell at 10-15 miles. The small antenna had especially poor performance in the vertical axis so ground clutter obscured most cloud returns. I doubt many remain in use. Some Bonanzas also had that radar option. Early PA46 Malibus offered that system 1984-88. PA46 Mirages were fitted with the pod-mounted Honeywell Radar starting in 1989 which usually can paint embedded cells 30-40 miles out and isolated storms at 80-100 miles.

Maybe so, but it's a lot easier to reach over and down a bit than constantly raising your hand to reach a Controller placed on top.

I'll let you know. I just ordered the and they'll be here tomorrow :-)

Even an old workhorse with bad paint shines up pretty decent with basic products from the auto parts store. All it cost me was a few bucks and a lifetime supply of ibuprofen for my sore shoulders and forearms. Haven't flown it yet, will hope for good results like GLGA!

You want $25K. The next guy figures he’ll be stuck with the engine job plus avionics upgrades. It will be real easy to burn through $50k plus taking care of those two items. So it becomes a $75k plus ticket for the next caretaker right off the bat. Even if you have to take less to unload it, you avoid the engine job and that will save you some real money and the associated aggravations that go along with it. There is a lot of thought that goes into selecting an aircraft for purchase. If you have unlimited resources, that makes it easier. This experience will leave you far more enlightened for the next buying experience.

Forget the stick, read the rivets!!! I have never had a need for calibrated fuel sticks. When I got checked out (2006) by John Pallante (used to be a MAPA president, CFII, M20J owner....) he taught me how to check the Fuel Level (in my M20C) by reading the Rivets inside the tank. If you are on the Pilot side, looking into the fuel tank opening, the Rivets are at about the 2 O'Clock position (with 6 O'Clock facing in front of the plane) - on the back wall of the fuel cell. The top rivet is 1.5 Gal down from Full, Each Rivet below that is 3 Gal. So lets say I see the fuel is 2/3 the way down between the 4th and 5th rivet I would count: 1.5 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 2 = 12.5 Gal's used. I have a JPI Fuel Scan 450, and I am within 1/4 Gal of accuracy for both tanks combined on every fill up. Once the fuel gets below 15-18 gals used in one tank (my tanks hold 26 gal each) then the accuracy gets a little worse. However after a lesson learned I wont take off on a tank if it has less then around 10 gals (1hr of fuel) in it anyway. I had a bucking issue after taking off with around 7-8 gal's in the tank. The guy at the FBO had an Ovation and mentioned in his POH it says not to take off with less then 12 Gals. M20C POH does not mention a limitation. Once I topped off the bucking stopped. The only challenge is on really bright sunny days - sometimes tough to see in the tank with glare - but you can always shade the view with a checklist, baseball cap, etc and if needed grab a LED flashlight to see better. I have been doing this since 2006 and have never had a need or desire to purchase a fuel stick. I can't speak for other models that have different size tanks. But you could take your time one day and calibrate the Rivets as you would a stick, and you will never misplace your Rivet trick, its always installed in the tank!!! Good luck.

If you can manage to keep it, I would. Replacement cost would be a significant multiple of what you have in it, and if you like airplane ownership (the fun parts, anyway), it'll always be a higher barrier to entry than what you have now. Since you're young you have time on your side, and if you're just starting your aviation career you probably need to be mobile, anyway, so a house might not be a great investment at this point. If you get moved around for work, the airplane could make that easier rather than harder. It may make other opportunities easier, as well.

DME arcs are old... GPS arcs are in... Way Cool! Thanks Paul! Go WAAS Powered MS! Best regards, -a-

I'm using Philips X/C 20W50 + CamGuard. Aeroshell 15W50 is semi-synthetic and there is enough anecdotal evidence that it is problematic for cam wear (including my experience) that I no longer use it. Shell and Pillips both have oils blended with LW-16702. There is a lot of confusion about this. LW-16702 is required by AD 80-04-03-R2 for certain Lycoming O-320 H engines that use automotive style lifters and had cam spalling problems. The oil is made for those engines so you don't have to add the additive. Because a lot of Lycoming engines have had cam/lifter issues, some use the LW-16702 additive (or oil with the additive) in other Lycoming engines as a prophylactic against cam distress. I have not seen any authoritative evidence that it helps with non-H engines, and I've heard plenty of laments that it did not. LW-16702 is NOT an anti-corrosive agent and it seems that most non-H engines suffer cam problems due to disuse and resulting corrosion. CamGuard is supposed to have anti-corrosion ingredients, but the mixture is a trade secret and I have not seen any real evidence that it prevents cam distress. But I use it figuring that it can't hurt and was developed by a knowledgeable person. I currently operate a L:ycoming IO-360-A3B6 factory rebuilt with roller lifters. I broke it in with Aeroshell 100 and switched to AS 100W after about 40 hours. After about 130 hours, I switched to Phillips X/C 20W50. My oil consumption went from about 8 hrs/qt to 12+ hours/qt. I have no idea why, but it seems pretty consistent. Skip

If you just want something to work on, why not buy an rV kit. You can buy whatever stage you can afford at the time. Save the hangar cost and build in your garage. No way I would try to rebuild a worn out certified plane.

The flip side argument is that if you keep the 430 and it becomes obsolete or fails in 5 years, you'll only spend $2500 extra at that time, but you'll keep $4500 in cash in the meantime. If you spread the extra $2500 over 5 years, that is also easy to justify standing pat if the 430 still works and meets your requirements.

Thank you, sir, for still watching over me! For those who don't know, we became stewards of our E from Mr. Bronson and he put a lot of love into it. It recently had the first annual in our hands and our A&P/IA (who also owns two Mooneys himself) was super impressed. I hope you are well - and please know that this aircraft is still loved and enjoying new adventures!

Non-WAAS GNS 430 owner here. I’ve decided to go the IFD440 route. The problem with the GTN 650, aside from the additional install cost as previously mentioned, is that the avionics shops in this corner of the world are still crazy busy. With the IFD, if the existing coax cable length is good, I only need to replace the antenna and a circuit breaker, and the savings can go towards a second Aspen or back into the maintenance fund.

WOW - that stuff is AMAZING! So quick and easy to use and the effect is out of this world. Paint job is already clean and almost new - but this stuff makes it just that much better.

An existing GNS in the panel is a depreciating asset continuing to provide its owner free cash flow! Why give that up? Garmin helps tremendously by upgrading it, renewing it, factory certifying it and continue servicing it for under 5 grand! The unit gets a fresh new look. Among other things it will get a new faster microprocessor which enables upgraded software and improved graphics and advanced terrain database. You'll be hard pressed to distinguish it from new! If desired can be paired up to an FS210 which, among other advantages, wirelessly pushes flight plans to and from a portable. This would mitigate the knob twisting on the GNS and bring its capability to almost that of a GTN! For an existing GNS in the panel the WAAS upgrade is a bargain. What other manufacturer can provide certified WAAS capability for under 5 grand?

To start off, I am a new Mooney owner and this is my first topic I have created. This calculator is just something I have been using and I thought others might think it was neat. If not, please feel free to not use it. Also, disclaimer, this is not intended to be a replacement for your POH. With that out of the way, my background is in military aviation and I was always used to having a “whiteboard” to calculate approach and stall speeds, etc. So when I moved over to general aviation, I wasn’t really satisfied with “just set this in climb and this in cruise”. Usually those being the same two numbers for MP and RPM. So I made this calculator based off of MY airplane’s POH. Other airplanes may be similar or exact, but it’s up to you to verify and/or edit a copy for your own use. It is sized to fit a phone screen and easy to use with drop down menus. Once I get to cruise altitude, I use this calculator while my plane is speeding up, and then I verify what settings I want based off my actual OAT and pressure altitude. The Fahrenheit to Celsius converter is just because my plane shows OAT in Fahrenheit, but my 430 TAS calculator takes Celsius. I recently added the “approximate TAS” section and it has been within a few knots when tested on real flights. Anyway, this is more useful to me as an app on my phone than trying to read spaghetti charts in turbulence or just plugging in memorized, generic numbers. But do what works for you. Mooney M20J Cruise.xlsx

June 2019. IMG_4079.MOV

I did a second coating of the airplane with the ceramic-magic. I'm not sure how its possible but it is even smoother, shinier and even more bling than after the first coat for which I showed pictures yesterday - so a couple more pictures today. I also did two of the cars - one airplane two coats (two on top one coat on bottom) and two cars, was how far one bottle lasted. It is so shiny and smooth and easy to use - I have never seen anything like this.

I agree, and that was my initial thought as well for a location. But, since Garmin is footing the bill....

I think that may be the key difference in climb at least. My max is in the mid-high 17s. 1gph could make all the difference for cooling - the added power is spectacular. I think you'll like the Surefly

^^^ You, sir, are a philosopher. Well said.

I’ve done both: bought a warrior years ago, flew it until rebuild time — pulled fuel tanks, interior, AP next to my hanger rebuilt the engine etc. flew it 2 years after that and sold it. Bought a Velocity SUV kit to build - all the was left was hang the engine and install avionics— sold it due to the financial crisis in 08. This time I wanted a flyer that needed a little bit of work - avionics mostly but not past what it was worth - well folks know how that finally ended. Now I’m wanting another flyer so I can fly — don’t want a builder anymore - maybe a avionics upgrade but not much else... I’m lucky there is a Mooney for rent around here -Don

I was getting a little dizzy looking at it upside down.

Yeah (and I love complex spreadsheets), but when I start seeing MP and GPH measured in 10ths, I begin wondering whether we are measuring a football field with a micrometer.

Yes.

I bought some inexpensive clip on visors to give me extra shade

http://www.selectaircraft.com

The nice one in the foreground belongs to a friend of mine.... The one in the back... unfortunately, de-registered 2012... http://www.aviationdb.com/Aviation/Aircraft/1/N1280X.shtm Best regards, -a-

I'm confused...shouldn't an M20E have an IO-360-A1A? Those don't have dual mags. What engine do you have installed in your airplane?

It must have been a fitting issue back in the day... the tube turns into a Y at the top of the stack... A bit short on depth for a long box... Best regards, -a-

Just spoke to a friend to flies this. He said just tell Travis approach you want the bay tour and they will step you through it. -Robert

Never paid anybody to do it, I’ve done it 3 times. About 20 hours to do it right. Removing and installing is not too hard. Stripping, priming and painting is tedious. They will look amazing afterwards.

We can fly formation to 9V6:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I listened to the full audio from LiveATC. The difficulty is that LiveATC is some guy with a radio and a link. It's neither what the Tower heard nor what the pilot heard. But listening to it, there are multiple instances suggesting there may have been a radio problem. Even one where Ford specifically tells the Tower the last communication was garbled. Add a bad radio with the use of the word "continue" (which is used in the sense of "go" throughout the ATC handbook), and you have a sound basis for an error.

Guys, my wife tells me that I should tell you that she is right one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I’m based at KGCD if you ever want to do some formation flying.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As per the installation manual that was supposed to be set with the airplane leveled on jacks

That's his problem. It isn't level on the ground but it shows level. If I remember right, press and hold the knob while turning on the G5 to get into configuration mode. Search through for a pitch offset setting. Try adding about 5 degrees to the value that is there now then exit configuration mode and restart the G5. If it still isn't what you want, adjust the setting in the appropriate direction until you are happy, then never mess with it again. Ours now shows about 3 or 4 degrees nose high on the ground and level at normal cruise speeds.

It's taken me about a year of on again off again dabble hobby level of interest to get somewhat proficient, having had no background in CAD. Youtube. Seriously. And the solidworks forum. That's where the problem solving gets done. Venturing into 3d printing has gotten my drafting skills up to snuff. I now want to learn mechanical interactions, simulations, electrical etc. The learning curve is quite steep. This is the level I've gotten to so far (trim switch yoke housing).

“Making an offer” means presenting information about yourself and making a case as to why Bob should sell it to you.

This analogy is about as close as anyone could possibly get to describing this whole debacle.

It must be the governor's fault. The most important thing in any crisis is to figure out who to blame.

"Should" is the operative word here...