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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/14/2020 in all areas

  1. And here she is, all dressed up! Axalta AF 700 paint, work by http://uppervalleyaviation.com
    8 points
  2. It arose out of a combination of an online discussion and me trying to find things to occupy extra time sitting at home. If you are equally bored, you might like it. It compares the GTN, GNS, and IFD in a single task - holding where the holding fix is a point some distance from a navaid or waypoint.
    5 points
  3. Well it was decided to just bite the bullet and deal with it. A new servo was ordered yesterday. It came into chandler aviation this morning and they shouod be done with it today. Shout out to chandler aviation for the honest help. He went out of his way to get 52q back home instead of having to wait 1 or 2 weeks. Im still on track to pick it up tomorrow.
    5 points
  4. Get the cleanest, latest model J you can find. You will love it and remember it fondly after you've moved up to a long body.
    5 points
  5. Baby control towers? For flying babies, duh.
    5 points
  6. @MooneyStrike , you should contact Jimmy Garrison @ All American near San Antonio. https://www.allamericanaircraft.com/Default.htm He has an inventory of Mooneys plus he brokers more. And he recently partnered with Paul Maxwell of Don Maxwell Aviation. http://donmaxwell.com/ Get Jimmy's valuation worksheet. He puts a value on the bladders, one piece windshield, airframe and engine hours... and much more. Here's the model history Anthony referred to: http://www.mooneyevents.com/chrono.htm FWIW, IMNSHO, you're targeting the perfect Mooney. My '66E cruises at 145 ktas on 8 g/h. And that ought to be doable by most 50 year old Es.
    3 points
  7. 3 points
  8. I think it is just terrible that the government is trying to control babies. Babies! BABIES! This is just not right. Free the babies!!!
    3 points
  9. Instead of "maximum of 1000h SMOH", I'd place a condition "minimum of 50 flight hours in any given year in the past". It does not help an engine to be parked on the ground. Engines live longer when running regularly.
    3 points
  10. WARNING - long answer from an engineer. This is your basic engineering statics class. Anything forward of the datum point is a negative arm. If we view the aircraft from the left side, negative arms and the prop will be left of the datum point. Any weight added in that area will be a positive weight times a negative arm which will result in a negative value indicating a counter-clockwise rotation relative to the datum point. Any weight added to the right of the datum will be a positive weight times a positive arm which results in a positive value. That indicates a clockwise rotation relative to the datum point. If you remove weight, it's a negative weight so you get the opposite results. CG is calculated by dividing the total moment by the weight. If you put a fulcrum under the CG the airplane will balance. It's pretty intuitive that removing the prop will move the CG aft. Removing a weight from the front of the aircraft will provide a positive moment. Even though the weight has decreased, the moment has increased. That's because the CG has moved aft. So even though the total weight is less, the arm is longer resulting in a larger moment. Either reducing weight without changing the moment or increasing the moment without changing the weight will move the CG (moment/wt) aft because either a larger top value or a smaller bottom value will result in a larger value for CG. So for example, if you removed the prop and put it in the cabin, the weight would be the same but the moment would increase and the CG moves aft. Likewise, if you were able to remove weight that was directly over the datum point (vacuum pump?) the moment would not change but the weight would decrease so the CG would again move aft. If the moment decreased when you removed the prop (which it doesn't), one change would offset the other and the CG would not move much. Interestingly, you can pick ANY datum point you want, measure arms and weights, multiply to get moments, and divide by total weight. While the distance to the CG from the datum point would change, the actual location of the CG of the airplane would calculate out to be in the same physical location. So they could have picked a datum point of the prop and had nothing but positive values. But the CG range would be more like 75 to 81 inches instead of 45 to 51 inches.
    2 points
  11. I have a really good friend that would say "Buy the best and cry once."
    2 points
  12. There is an old saying. "I am too poor to buy cheap things". It was this last summer where I started to look at my first plane and after substantial study with this community and other sources, I decided to buy a plane that checked all of the boxes on my list. It is an S with the Screaming Eagle upgrade, FIKI, a ton of electronics. It is a rare thing to find the unicorn. You know, the one thing you can buy where you wouldn't do anything to or change. Yours is out there waiting patiently for you to find it. Take the time and it'll show itself. All Mooneys are amazing. We have absolutely no buyers remorse large in part because of the plane and because of the awesome prior care taker of our plane. They were amazing plane owners. When buying a plane, you are buying the prior owner too. How did they take care of it? Did they do all maintenance and do it properly? Were they good stewards?
    2 points
  13. Ah, my home town! I've let my SA license lapse though - pity, would be nice to fly a J next time I'm there. For the OP: Sounds like a J. Highly recommend you buy through Jimmy at All American Aircraft. Have the pre-buy done with JD at SWTA or one of the other nearby MSC's. Jimmy can arrange transition training - Brian Lloyd lives across they runway from All American and flew his K around the world. Fly it home yourself. Air-Mods in NJ is probably the closest MSC for future maintenance. Highly recommend you stick with a Mooney expert to maintain the plane. Finally, all the glass sounds nice - but frankly I think most folks completely overcapitalize. Fly the plane for a year and then decide about upgrades.
    2 points
  14. That address is the FAA office in DC. I thought when the triennial registration program started, expired N-numbers were supposed to be on administrative hold for a period of time (3 years? 5 years?) before being made available again. A phone call or two is in order, to see what's going on. Good luck, and let us know what you find out.
    2 points
  15. Initial thoughts: Tighten the retract circuit all the way down. If the flaps hold, you will know the problem is confined to the valve In that circuit. If they don’t hold then your problem is likely in the actuator circuit. The eccentric that unseats the retract valve seat has a very abrupt step. There is not a lot of transition and therefor minimal possibility that the eccentric is partially holding the valve open. To set the cable after it has been disconnected, pump the flaps down and move the cable to the retract position. Move the arm on the eccentric until the flaps retract. Hold the arm in that position and tighten the cable. If you are ever flying a plane again in which flaps will not stay down, do not use them. No flap landings and takeoffs won’t give you any trouble. Flying an airfoil that is subject to uncommanded changes in wing cord, center of pressure, lift generation and angle of incidence might...
    2 points
  16. Context is a challenge on line. My wife would say that I can come off as gruff in person. Those two things can make for miscommunications. You’re not the first to read me as being rude when it was not my intent. Indeed we agree that this place is critical to keeping our old birds flying. No need to delete your comments, people have said way worse to me. My apologies for not being more tactful. My offer stands. If you run into a “gumption trap” during your endeavors, give me a call. I’m on Eastern time. Tree 0 one Fife zero 2 tree niner two fowah.
    2 points
  17. I think stay at home has me over reacting a bit. Reading in to things. The first comment about the layout seemed petty to me. The second comment seemed to disregard the value of my effort because the issue is always misassembly. Like I was wasting my time. When I developed issues with my flaps I went through the forums. They are extremely valuable to folks like me. I went through all the posts on this. What I saw was about a 50% hit rate on good advice driven largely by a misunderstanding of how the pump worked. Someone in need doesn’t know who to believe. They have to decide that for themselves and it helps if they have a way to understand the parts themselves in a simple format this post was a way to get agreement on: “yep, that’s how it works” I think this forum is a major contributor to the future survival of these vintage birds. Mooney isn’t going to give us the prints or make diagrams for us. It falls on folks like you and I to gather and retain knowledge for others. We can each do our part. While I can’t make a circuit board diagram or tell someone how to do upholstery, I’m uniquely qualified for explaining how a hydraulic system works. So I’m contributing how I can. I am sorry if I misread your intentions. I’ll delete all my comments after you get a chance to see this one.
    2 points
  18. Well, maybe not necessarily rude, but a little sarcastic... twice... But my message to Nuke: Ross (Shadrach) is one of the 3 most knowledgeable guys on this site when it comes to hydraulic flaps. He's a really good person to listen to about them. And with that said- I've disassembled and repaired 3 hydraulic flap actuators. 2 of them actually needed it. I understand the system pretty well. And I still found your schematic sketch helpful in understanding the system better.
    2 points
  19. I bought an "E" 3 years ago, having never sat in a Mooney in my life. I had owned two airplanes earlier in my life (a Cherokee 140 and then a Beech Sundowner). The Mooney is nothing like these planes. I feel like I am "One with with my Mooney" not just a passenger in the plane. I bought it as a Project plane. I have spent twice as much on it, as I did to buy it. I love working on it, and it is my retirement project. I was a workaholic and my wife insisted that I have something to focus on when I actually retired. Even though it is an expensive "Hobby", it is also so interesting to learn everything I can about the actual plane, as well as flying it. So, in my humble opinion, you have picked a wonderful airplane. It flies fast, and is so solid, but realize that E's are vintage airplanes that will take a lot of TLC to maintain. I tell people that with the "E" that I have a wonderful 2-place airplane with all the luggage space you could dream of, and it sips fuel like a Cessna 150 and skims along at 150 MPH all day long. I wish you all the best in your search, -mark
    2 points
  20. Hi and welcome! I certainly don't want to sound like I am second-guessing your parameters, because you've got a great list. But I would throw out a couple options to expand the offerings. We actually bought our 1966 E shortly after a prop strike...the result of a gear failure. It's a great airplane and the prop strike got us a recently installed factory zero-time engine with a new propeller (with no eddy current AD). Another option is to consider getting a "discounted" aircraft with closer to 2,000 hours on the engine. If the engine checks out well, you might get another 1,000 hours out of it for essentially free. Assuming the price reflects the high-time engine. I'll be following along on your search! Ross
    2 points
  21. As @carusoam suggested, I'd make up a spreadsheet with a column for each of those five airplanes. List each of the features on a row so that you can compare the five planes side by side. I would also list the features in order based on importance or value/cost. For example adding an engine monitor would be $2000 to $5000 whereas adding an autopilot is $15K to $25K. Therefore all other things being equal the airplane with the autopilot but no engine monitor is quite a bit more valuable than the airplane with the engine monitor but no autopilot. I like to list the asking price first then year model, followed by hours since overhaul. Also, if you'd like to talk through these or any other Mooneys, send me a PM with contact details. I'm happy to talk through the process with you and what the market looks like at the moment.
    2 points
  22. I was thinking the same thing. A Mooney is the best of all aviation worlds, of course, unless you happen to be a 92-year-old stroke victim. A call to Angel Flight might be in order, as they have access to a variety of sizes and configurations.
    2 points
  23. I would suspect they went with the cheaper gaskets and did not use the correct amount or seat them correctly. Looks like the EGT probes are installed a little high on the pipes, they should be down about 2 inches. if they are up higher they tend to burn up quicker. Brian
    1 point
  24. Huh wierd - I could still see them on my view on a PC laptop. I removed and reuploaded...better?
    1 point
  25. I'm posting this to the General list because it deals with both Vintage and Modern Mooneys. When Pablo Casals was 93 years old he was asked why he continued to practice his cello three hours a day. His reply: "Because I'm beginning to notice some improvement." I've flown my 201 since 1993. I'm on the other side of 1,000 hrs. PIC. I keep at it because I may, in fact, be starting to notice some improvement. But I've led a sheltered life in the sense of flying other Mooney models. No turbos. No 6 cylinder engines. And on the other end, no Johnson bar gear and hydraulic flaps. Well, I rectified one part of that experiential deficiency yesterday. I took my J to the IA for annual, and, to get back, they gave me a 1965 C model with manual gear and hydraulic flaps. It's IFR certified, but with the funky panel and dated avionics, not to mention flying an unfamiliar bird, I'm glad it was good VFR for the return trip. I wondered about the J bar and flaps. Truth be told, it took longer to orient myself to the locations of controls, the operation of the avionics and the panel layout than it did to figure out the gear and flaps. The gurus are correct: if you pay attention to the ASI it's no problem to use the J bar and to avoid lowering flaps at too high an airspeed (this one has the service bulletin c/w to allow a higher flap operating speed). So, with that verbose preface, here's my question: Does plugging this hole in my experience, and going back to the Al Mooney design, now mean that I've finally escaped my cosseted life and become a REAL Mooney pilot, or do I (1) need to fly a whole lot more in the short bodies (or a manual gear F) or (2) need to tame a rip-roaring, twin turbo, I-Eat-Bonanzas-For-Breakfast Acclaim before I can delude myself and think that I'm actually a full-fledged Mooney stud? Vintage guys may have one opinion and big bore dudes may have another. Or is the fact that "If you've flown one Mooney you've flown them all"? [The FAA would tell us that there are only four Mooneys; for present purposes those would be the M20P and the M20T. Bonus points for naming the third and fourth.] Dave Piehler
    1 point
  26. Yeah, I’ve got a couple a big babies at my control tower!
    1 point
  27. Well, I just got a somewhat hopeful series of answers from the FAA. It appears that the SBS office uses de-registered numbers for various projects on a temporary basis. A regular registration submission will serve as an official request to have the number released for reassignment. It sounded like there are quite a few of these numbers on hold, but not many in actual use, so getting a release shouldn't be too difficult. We'll see!
    1 point
  28. When we flew coast to coast we saw a couple similar to that. One was KPVW, Hale County Airport in Plainview, TX. The other was at KPBF, Grider Field, Pine Bluff, AR. They are a little taller than the on the OP shows, but both were abandoned. We asked the guy at the FBO in Plainview about it and he said that it was an operational tower up until Reagan fired all the controllers that were on strike in 1981, after that it was never operational again. I think there are still a lot of these abandoned towers scattered around the country that suffered a similar fate. I took this picture of the one in Pine Bluff. This picture isn't mine but you can see the one in Plainview is similar in size.
    1 point
  29. I suspect that some of these carbs have had field modifications that are unlogged.
    1 point
  30. Sounds like a Bonanza with rear door access would work the best. Not too many "recovering" 92 year old's would be able to board and de-board a Mooney with the wing access and drop down into the cabin area. I HAVE done a few challenging ones by removing the passenger seat so they could step down and sit in the back. Contacting Angel Flight might be a good option. I just coordinated a Northwoods Airlifeline flight ( a U.P. based mercy flight org) for a similar aged man coming from Gulf Shores, AL to Detroit by airline. Our Seneca III picked him up at DTW and flew him to Manistique (ISQ) in the U.P. Our flight count is down right now but we are not shut down. Just taking lots of safety measures. That flight was taken by an ER Doctor. I felt pretty comfortable all precautions were taken as required. Tom
    1 point
  31. You have one of the coolest running C models I’ve ever seen. You also have more FF at WOT than most C models. Your example proves that these engines can be set up properly and run moderate temps.
    1 point
  32. Understand quotes vary based on # colors required, which colors (red is like a $1000/gal), whether they’re metallic, body work (standard is 8 hours included, some used 16), etc etc A scheme designer will cost an extra $2K if you use one. Edit: Don’t forget taxes, Florida has none, some states are 10% or more.
    1 point
  33. A paint shop can create a vinyl lettering of a new tail number and apply it over whatever number is on the plane. Then you can hold off painting. It takes a minimum of 6 weeks to get a new number these days. Plan accordingly.
    1 point
  34. Nuke, That’s mostly true, but... you haven’t had something maintained yet that didn’t need it? Then have it taken apart and not put back together properly...? Try to be nice to the one guy who is most familiar with the flap pump... we may need him again. Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  35. Looking GOOD! I love green on planes.
    1 point
  36. When testing batteries it’s best to put a load on them. This means checking the voltage while having a reasonable amperage load on like a landing light or two. As batteries age the reserve capacity drops slowly although if you have a bad cell it can drop dramatically. So IMO checking the voltage (pertaining to battery health) with the alternator off is important. Having said all that I just pick the battery that spins over the prop the fastest and use that for the flight. We put both on individual batteryminders after every flight. The required annual capacity check normally spots the bad apples. Also even with dual batteries and dual alternators if the main unit fails I’m landing ASAP, as in right NOW.
    1 point
  37. Well that wouldn’t be any fun though. This one will be $1.43 and won’t break :-)
    1 point
  38. Faster horses, younger women, older whiskey and more money
    1 point
  39. Vantage Plane Plastics has them for $50 P/N: K130078-511.
    1 point
  40. Parts and maintenance manual should be your first stop... If you select the wrong material because it looks the same... it can cause the same difficulty you are describing... If you use a procedure that is different... you may have left out a step... Yes, having the flaps snap back up as you slow on final approach is fall out of the sky dangerous... as the stall speed changes about 10mph... less than the safety bracket you are probably using... Are you sure those are nylon washers in the pump to seal the oil flow from flowing past the ball bearing like unidirectional valves... Or are they Teflon? nylon has the ability to absorb moisture and oil where Teflon won’t... a plastic that absorbs a liquid will change dimension... Nylon is pretty tough as well... and won’t readily conform to the spherical shape of the ball bearing... Teflon, on the other hand, forms a pretty good seal because of its softness... Where some technical improvements could be made, but can’t without some STC documentation... the pump material is leather? Ross @Shadrach has documented some of the best details for flap maintenance... invite him to look over your shoulder... PP thoughts only, I get concerned because I have had the flaps go from down to up in a snap... in my M20C... not a mechanic... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  41. Thomas Webb was also busy certifying Mooney airplanes in 1963.
    1 point
  42. I looked at all the responses here and didn't see any that addressed the spark plugs ( I could have missed it) Have you ever tried a different pair of spark plugs? Have you ever tested the ignition leads for shorts or opens? Even new plugs can come with problems. I'm thinking ignition problems with high a high BMEP setting (high power related) Maybe a hot spot on one plug causing slight preignition? I'm really thinking cylinder specific instead of carb specific unless the carb maybe has something diverting the airflow. How about the AD on the old 2 piece venturi that came apart sometimes? Has that been checked? I didn't notice if you have actually taken the intake tube off and looked at all that stuff very carefully? Cracks in the rim of the intake tube where it seats against the head? Really look it over good off the engine? Can you remove the intake tube and then bolt it back on without the connector rubber tube and see if it will tighten up and seat properly. With a gasket in place! If it does, after a good internal cleaning try a new gasket and re attach the intake tube for another try. How about a new rubber coupling at the same time to try? I'm into doing the easy and cheaper stuff first.
    1 point
  43. Can you imagine trying to use that thing in IMC in a Corsair at 400 mph? I think I'd be upside down and backwards in short order.
    1 point
  44. pfft, it's n a10. should be worried about the runway.
    1 point
  45. Disclaimer...................once again, the below text does necessarily reflect the opinion or attitude [well, maybe some of it! ] of the poster [that's me ]. It just made me chuckle a bit.
    1 point
  46. Anthony got it right, his memories of C ownership are correct. You can leave the throttle wide open but will need a different movement of the mixture due to higher fuel flow. But slightly cocking the throttle body inside the carb will hopefully create / increase turbulence in the airflow inside it, resulting in increased atomization of the fuel (smaller droplets).and improved, more uniform mixing of the fuel droplets into the air. If each cylinder gets equal amounts of fuel, it will run smoother; if one cylinder receives more fuel than the others due to great variability in fuel droplet size, it will make more power and the engine will run rougher when you lean it. Leaning just until the economizer circuit closes off leaves maximum fuel flow for maximum power and speed. But at lower altitudes, keeping this power requires RPMs to be reduced into the red arc on the tach in order to abide by the Key Number for our engine. But the Key Number is only 65% power and is a protective strategy to enhance engine life while still obtaining good performance, and is not mentioned in official Mooney or Lycoming publications . . . It's just another choice that you the aircraft owner get to make.
    1 point
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