Leaderboard
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/12/2020 in all areas
-
"Everybody Knows" what keeps an aircraft aloft is Money.... Lots of money. -dan6 points
-
@Fry just remember you said "Any advice, link or hint is welcome. " Legality has nothing to do with this. It's perfectly legal in the U. S. to pick up a hammer and hit your thumb as hard as you possibly can. It's not smart, but it's legal. I am not a mechanic, but I have done owner-assist annuals and maintenance and have come to realize how much I do not know. If you just completed your first oil change and it went "okay", for your safety and that of your passengers I would find a mechanic familiar with Mooneys that's willing to let you learn under his/her supervision. Just over- or under- torquing something could be very expensive if not extremely dangerous, especially when it comes to fuel systems. One example: Many, many highly experienced mechanics have a very difficult time removing the suction screen on the back of a tightly packed Lycoming engine (and on most modern Mooneys, the engines are shoe-horned in). If you get it your first time working on your engine you will be considered for a Nobel Peace Prize (most experienced mechanics are heard saying words or combinations of words that haven't even been invented yet). And now for the bad news, taking it off is supposedly a piece of cake compared to safety-wiring it back on. You have a late model J that's worth in the neighborhood of $200,000 USD. Spend the money on an experienced Mooney professional and if you are intent on learning how to work on your airplane, see if you can quietly watch and gradually learn. Whatever you do for a living that allows you to buy an airplane makes you good at what you do, but not necessarily good at all things. Pay someone who is good at what they do to, at the very least, walk you through this. After seeing how much work this really is you may be thrilled to let them handle it.5 points
-
Hi guys, its with reluctance I am now listing my 1998 M20K 252 Encore on the market. This was my "forever" bird but situations change. I have full access to very nice A36 (biz partner) and another hanger buddy has decided to sell is Super Decathlon. I have talked to a couple of people, but decided to start here since everyone here has helped me out so much. Details: 1998 Mooney M20K (252 Encore) S/N: 25-2026 Reg: N755FM AFTT: 1359.6 NDH Engine: TSIO-360-SB2 TSMOH: 837.9 (averages 200h+/year) Oil change every 25hr, Oil Analysis history for two years GAMi Injectors, 0.3 spread JPI Engine Data for the past 200-250h + SAVVY Analysis MSC Maintained (Maxwell & SWTA) No Deferred maintenance, all ADs complied with All LED (exterior) WHELEN lights, strobes Electric (factory) speedbrakes Panel controlled inflatable door seal 2017 Paint, Encore interior (both 8+) 1110.4# useful load Hangered in Conway, AR Avionics (complete overall in June 2019) Garmin G500 TXi (GDU1060) w/Synthetic Vision Garmin GTN 750 Garmin G5 (all glass backup, no vacuum) King KFC 150 w/Flight Director, Alt Pre-select, and Yaw Damp Garmin GAD 46e Autopilot interface Garmin GCU 485, Dedicated PDF Controller JPI EDM 930 CiES Fuel Senders WX500 Stormscope, interfaced with G500 & GTN750 Garmin GTX345, ADS-B (in/out) Garmin 35c, remote Audio Panel (with Telligence voice command, and Bluetooth) King KX155 Nav/Com2 SIRS compass Logs & Weight and Balance: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aj6bITv-9cUTkYUdd8Vy_lxA8-1L3w?e=Lis2v2 $228,000 obo -Bryan bryan.brannon@gmail.com 501-472-00824 points
-
He's here because we have a decent group of folks. His other option is probably pilotsofamerica.com where a lot of them are d-bags.3 points
-
Our company puts on a free pancake feed during the local town festival every year. One year it basically got rained out and we were left with 10 gallons pancake batter to figure out what to do with. Hmm? I took it home, mashed it with 6-row malted barley to convert the starches to sugar, fermented it into a mash and turned it into my very own "pancake" whiskey. It obviously lacked the complexities of anything mentioned in this thread, but the volunteers at the festival the next year thought it made a good mixer for Coke.3 points
-
I'm not so sure I agree. While it's true the Part 23 rewrite has been glacially slow, take a second to think of the changes we've seen since 2016. While the complete rewrite might be beneficial to some of us, the real crux of the matter is getting better equipment available for installation, quicker. 4 years ago we had barely seen the advent of the Dynon D10, now we have an incredible array of products all designed so that we can ditch the one system that is least reliable and most problematic- vacuum. Four years ago, to install an HSI, it was close to $10k. A G5 today costs $3k and your local A&P can install it. The cheapest autopilot was $20k. Now it's about $5k, and can probably be installed by your local A&P. Dual Aspens? Easy. Electronic ignition? Two STCed models are available right now.3 points
-
I have been contacted directly by several Mooney owners looking at Aerostars and feel compelled to "complete" this thread; at least to get to the point of "should I or shouldn't I". I won't go into details, but after getting my son in law back on his feet, the family was faced with some more challenges. 2019 was a year full of challenges. With the announcement Saturday of my son and daughter in law expecting our granddaughter in August, perhaps smoother sailing is in store. I'm going to write this in points, not a narrative, in the interest of time. First, understand that I owned the 601P with intercooler added by STC. That is my only direct experience with the airplane. YOU DO NOT WANT A 601P WITHOUT INTERCOOLERS. Temp issues will make your flying unpleasant. The 601P, my choice of models, is a 290HP turbo-normalized engine. It will legitimately give you 215 knots in the mid teens at 28-30 gph and 240 at 24,000'. The 350 hp models will add 20 knots and lots of single engine performance The airplane is fast, efficient, and stable as a 6,000# airplane can be. High wing loading smooths the ride. It's single engine handling is benign and stalls come with lots of warning though when it breaks, it breaks and recovery will require some altitude. Frankly, "handling" is about as good as it gets in all regimens. You don't flare on landing, just get a positive angle of attack and let her touch down. Personally, I found it to be one of the easiest airplanes I've ever owned to land consistently. That being said, don't let it stall on landing or you may be patching holes in the runway. It is really two airplanes. One with no flaps or half flaps and one with full flaps. You will have to have full flaps to land at an acceptable speed, but you do not put them down until you KNOW you have the runway made. With any weight and full flaps, the airplane will probably not maintain altitude even with full power. The only time I ever got close to the edge was on final when another airplane cut me off. I gently raised the nose without full power or dumping flaps and in seconds entered coffin's corner. DON'T DO THAT. ILS approaches are so incredibly simple: half flaps, gear down, power set to about 16" and it will settle into a 116 knot approach like on guided rails. The fuel system is different in every respect, but tricky only to the uneducated or careless. It will unbalance itself in cruise flight and must be monitored. You can rebalance with crossed, but DO NOT TAKE OR OR LAND ON CROSS FEED. THE FUEL WILL UNPORT. There was a fatal accident at Philadelphia, MS, just before I bought mine by a pilot (military fighter experience and airline pilot) who inadvertently took off with one engine on cross feed. When I bought the airplane, a friend who is a professional, Challenger pilot and who has 700 hours of Aerostar time in his early logs, that the Aerostar is the highest work load airplane you can find in civilian aviation. Absolutely true. I made more (thankfully minor) mistakes making IFR approaches in the Aerostar than all of my 50 plus year flying career combined. There would be a very good argument for only flying the airplane IFR with a qualified co-pilot. What I really didn't like about the airplane was no manual trim and an electrical capacity that could be overcome. A/C can't be used at night for instance. In a pressurized airplane, A/C is not an option. Then, the big negative. After lift off at 85 knots, you are in no man's land until you accelerate to about 115 knots when she acts like she really wants to fly. Blue line of 108 may be the best single engine climb speed, but it certainly doesn't feel like it. Lose and engine right after lift off and you had better have three thousand feet in front of you. The flaps and gear are hydraulic. The good side of hydraulic systems is that they are reliable and cheap. Most parts for repair are nothing but O-rings from your auto parts store. The down side is they leak just about all the time: hell of a mess. Forget avionics, paint, interior, and prop & engine reserve, Annual inspections and maintenance cost me $20,000 a year. YOU PROBABLY CAN'T DO THAT. I have an ideal maintenance situation with a reasonable shop that has been doing all my airplane maintenance for many years. If you use one of the "experienced/known" Aerostar shops, double that. Though I had no major failures during my ownership, the airplane "nickeled and dimed" me to death with my always having to go to the shop for some minor and difficult to diagnose item. We spent $2,000 trying to find the fault with the air dump valve light. You need the air dump valve light. Forty hours after I sold the airplane, it blew and engine at 24,000' over the high desert of Utah, landed on a remote field without damage but with enough damage to the engine and components that the airplane was sold for salvage. If you think you are going to overhaul those engines and components, (remember four turbos) for less than 90k per side, you are daffy. I understand how tempting the entry price can be. They are relatively cheap to buy, but remember, THEY ARE VERY COMPLEX FORTY YEAR OLD AIRCRAFT THAT WOULD COST UPWARDS OF TWO MILLION DOLLARS TO BUILD TODAY. The airplane has the ability to eat your lunch, your pocketbook and your children's education savings in a heartbeat. I will "finally" say something that I have never said publicly. The Aerostar community, I mean the professional community that supports them, has some good and some bad people. Problem is, the group protects the group and scratches each other's back. You will not know who to trust until it is too late. I will have to say that selling my beautiful Bravo and buying the Aerostar ranks among the dumbest moves in my aviation life. Yes, there are people with long ownerships who would not own anything else, but they are in the minority, IMO. Now, at seventy years of age and, soon to be, 60 years of flying under my belt, my wife says that "I should be happy" with my Cessna 180, 195, and Piper Cub. Throw in first class airline tickets and I suppose she is right. Still, I damn near cry myself to sleep sometimes thinking about N21448, my Bravo. So, I'm happy to talk to any of you at any time about Aerostars, but my answer is, well, I think you know. Ditto for any turbocharged, pressurized, piston twin. Jg3 points
-
2 points
-
Progress! Re-Assembly complete. New nose truss, clamp-on pin, and new nose pucks. (They were over-due!) Now waiting for all the TN rains to pass to try some taxi runs and then take to the skies. I huge thank you to my new local A&P, Ted Tippon (son of the country music star). They are Mooney owners as well!2 points
-
@FlyByMike, we can be more helpful if you'll add some info to your id. Where are you based? We have MSers almost everywhere and we know some shops we can recommend to do your pre-buy. M20Es are highly prized by those of us who are lucky enough to take care of one and many others who wish they were so lucky. I bought my current '66E 8 years ago with a low time engine and many mods. It was a great candidate for a forever last plane and worthy of a fresh panel and a nice paint job. Good luck!2 points
-
I'm not an A&P and relatively new to Mooneys, but I purchased a '69 E last year as my first plane. So far, I am very happy with the decision. I had a prebuy inspection done near the airport where I purchased the plane and, having done quite a bit of reading, also gave the mechanic some specific items that I wanted them to check including fuel tanks/bladders, the landing gear pucks, any signs of corrosion, oil analysis, complete logbook review, etc. It took them about 3 days and cost just under $1k. Because I was several hundred miles away, I also had them send me pictures as they were doing the work, which they were happy to do. Then, as a final stipulation for the purchase, I also had the owner take me for a flight in it (I also did some flying from the right seat) and used a title company to ensure all was ok on that. What I like: It's an absolute blast to fly! Very fast (mine has several speed mods that I'm very glad were installed prior to my purchase). It's MINE. I can leave it in the hangar with my headsets and iPad in place, full of fuel, and it's ready to go whenever I want to go. Ownership is pretty great in that regard. Contrary to what many will say about Mooney's, the room inside isn't terrible. In fact, I'm 6'1" and have to put my seat pretty far forward to reach the pedals. So, lots of legroom in the front. Width-wise though, it's not as comfortable as Piper Archer / Arrow. What I dislike: It's a 50 year old airplane and thus requires some care and attention (duh!). I have quite a bit of cracking on the interior plastics which obviously don't affect the airworthiness, but does bug me, so I'll probably work on it at some point. The original Mooney / Brittain AccuTrak autopilot / wing-leveler is a bit of an enigma. Mine only has the wing-leveler portion operational and I wish the failed autopilot portion had been discovered during the pre-buy. Sometimes, like when I'm flying in really gust winds, I like the wing leveler. Other times, I don't like it as much and I find myself wondering whether it's the wing-leveler or my feet on the rudder causing me to be slightly off my track occasionally. It's wonderful for single pilot IFR though. I am patiently waiting on the TruTrak to get certified and will likely replace mine with that eventually. Hope that helps some. Feel free to PM or email me if you'd like any additional thoughts on it.2 points
-
For me, the whole PC system, turn coordinator (replaced with a non PC turn coordinator), full vacuum system and pump, AI and DG, as well as the vacuum gauge was a total of 52 pounds. However, your mileage may vary.2 points
-
The accident model helicopter has a normal cruise speed of 140-155kias at the altitude it was flying at. With 150kias in level forward flight I can pitch up 30° and achieve a near 4000 ft./min. rate of climb. Airspeed will bleed off but the resulting altitude change is dramatic. Pitching the nose up 30° in ‘wings-level’ flight in any helicopter at any forward indicated airspeed will result in a positive rate of climb until the indicated airspeed is zero. Upon reaching zero indicated airspeed and with no change in the nose up pitch the helicopter will then begin to accelerate in the opposite direction now trading altitude for airspeed - in a negative direction of course. All things being equal (same power setting and same 30° nose up ) the helicopter will return to the speed and altitude as when the nose up maneuver began - albeit with a vector 180° opposite. Think of it as if you’re rolling a marble up a giant skateboard ramp at 50 kts. Once the marble runs out of kinetic energy it will roll right back down. Same thing happens in a helicopter - all things being equal. Just like everything aerodynamic helicopters like to fly pointy end forwards. But I can fly this helicopter backwards and sideways at 35kts relative airspeed all day long (normal operating limitation). Pardon the crude drawing.2 points
-
Scott, Part of this is that you are a Meteorologist, and will analyze those charts. Most pilots are tactical and want the post analysis data. I usually start about a week out with windy.com and the ECMWF model. I'm looking for the projection of fronts and low clouds/IFR. on my targeted travel days, to see if I need to move the travel date +/- 1 day. I then watch this solidify over the week as the timing of the frontal movement gets clearer. Once we are within 48 hours I'm pretty set with what we will get, and look then only for problems with T-storms and icing, IFR minimums and alternates for the flight. I'll use windy and the MOS product. The FAA/NOAA forecast products are very vague... if they show no precipitation, you can be sure there is nothing there.. but you will have large areas of forecast rain, and possible rain, that are over broad.. Within 24 hours the TAF's now give you local knowledge for the terminal forecast. Once we are within 12 hours, the ICP products are valid, and the GFA, and Flight path tools can be used. This allows me to finalize the icing decision, look at cloud layers and skew-t. I'll finalize the route and optimize the height for winds, cloud layers etc.. and execute. Examples: I was in Denver for Christmas, and there was a snow storm forecast, by Wednesday I knew that we had to get out a day earlier (Friday) to beat the storm and picked a destination (Ohio) that would be beyond the affected area. The 12 hour forecast showed freezing fog, and possible light icing in the lower clouds.. So I planed for right at that minimum (FIKI), and would be out soon to the east. Weather was clear, we were above a layer and had no issues. Last year on the way to Florida, there was a front forecast stretching from WV to the coast with freezing levels to the MEA and other things in the mountains, but what looked like the 100miles to the coast were clear in the morning, with the freezing level above 6000' and just a stretch of IFR weather. This worried me, but it was over 12 hours so I didn't have the ICP products yet. On Friday morning, I ran the OGIMET analysis for the next day, and it showed me what I was missing, it was snow above 6000'.. descending into warmer weather, and therefor freezing rain. I moved up the departure to that afternoon, and flew down to Grand Strand which would be south of the front, and completely bypassed the icing threat. An easy IFR flight to FL the next morning. I'm planning this year's flight down to FL... 1 week out it was showing a front from the SE across the Carolinas. By T-5 that forecast front had moved on beyond the coast for Saturday, and I'm seeing easy VFR until south Florida and perhaps a simple IFR letdown at my destination. With that forecast there isn't much more to do until the final morning to adjust for winds, and morning fog, and looking at the cloud layers for the final IFR planning.2 points
-
4k to install ! you have got to be kidding me! I personally feel like the 275 is going to bomb and that was before hearing this. No way this is a 40 hour install. That just cant be right.2 points
-
Spending time with other mooney pilots is like doing research to support your work... Best regards, -a-2 points
-
Yep, I fly a 252 based in Denver... where it's cold. But it's also high altitude. I was experiencing similar hard starts in below freezing temps. But the fix for me was to pull the mixture back about an inch. I was actually flooding the engine at full rich. What works for me... very consistently 10 seconds of prime, mixture set about an inch out for the altitude, throttle about three quarters. Crank and as soon as it fires, hit the prime again for 2 or 3 seconds. I also have an engine heater. I do find that if I'll leave the engine heater on which keeps the oil at about 65 degrees, it starts much easier.2 points
-
Don't do anything based solely on oil analysis. It should be just one of many data points pointing you toward a solution. Oil analysis on its own is dubious at best. The metal you found initially in your filter sounds very normal as well. Generally, our engines don't just seize up all of a sudden without warning, unless it's a fuel problem or your M20J dual-mag falls off the back of your engine. Everything you're talking about will begin to add up over time and let you know when it's time to overhaul.2 points
-
Hope this helps you- Question- Are you required to do a 50 HR insp per the manual in your country? Or, do you just want to do it? It does make a difference in your case. If you are required to do it and have it signed off then you have to do it. On a cautionary note- we don't know anything of your experience level for doing mechanical work. It would help with responses if we knew more about your background. If you are as limited as your posting says then please think about this- when you learned to fly you didn't just ask someone how to fly and then go solo on your first flight. Likewise, if you have very limited mechanical background then maybe you don't want to "solo" right now on aircraft maintenance. Your interest in doing things correctly is lauded and commendable. Don't cut it short by not being trained properly. An A&P mechanic here in the USA can not do any maintenance procedure and sign it off that he has not been previously trained on. For instance, if he hasn't been trained on how to replenish the hydraulic system on a G5, he "technically" can't do it unless someone who is trained shows him how to do it. Please let us know about your background so we can better advise. Just asking how to do something doesn't quit cover the issues. For instance, brake wear and condition. If you don't know or haven't been shown what a good brake system looks like or does how will you know what you are looking for on your inspection? Very glad to have you asking questions. Many here are ready to help you.1 point
-
Absolutely possible to do it with semi rigid designs. The only limitation is you have to maintain positive G. Unloading a rotor of that design has flapping and feathering issues that may cause a portion of the system to contact the mast (aka mast bumping). Fully articulated rotor heads on the other hand are fully aerobatic and will even take negative G. That is the system used on all S-76 series of helicopters.1 point
-
Here’s the deal... the C, E and Fs are ~50+ years old. They definitely won’t be perfect. Even well cared for examples will need things fixed. If there’s a prebuy and nothing is found, it wasn’t a good inspection. Have an MSC or experienced Mooney mechanic look it over carefully for show stoppers like spar corrosion or maybe an engine that’s toast. Pucks and fuel tanks can be repaired with money, so that’s just a question of purchase price and your own plans. They will almost all have some issues with plastics and or paint. On the plus side, they aren’t that hard to work on, efficient, fast, and they are yours.1 point
-
I'm in Seattle again the 17th through 19th. Happy to catch up in the evening after work for drinks or something.1 point
-
1 point
-
We take everything in context. We've had higher numbers than yours but aren't planning on doing much other than keep an eye on it. I actually called Lycoming and they essentially said that they would not be too concerned unless the iron count was over 100. We also noticed that the more hours we put on the oil the higher our count so we adjusted our oil change policy. We WERE using a policy of 50 hours or 4 months whichever came first. We have since modified that to start trying to schedule an oil change with our mechanic once the oil hits 35 hours but stop flying if we can't get it done by 50 hours (our mechanic can usually get to it within a few days of our request). We still use a 4 month cutoff too. Plus, we take flying history into account. Our plane sat for 30 days during the GFC500 install so we expected higher iron count in the next analysis. Then it got the oil changed at annual but the annual took most of 30 days waiting on parts so we expect the next analysis to be elevated too.1 point
-
Thanks, Scott for your perspective. I start flight planning with a look at the National Wx maps: Location of fronts, areas of L and H pressure. NEXRAD and the AWC convective and icing graphic forecasts are next. By this point I’ve sometimes already decided against a flight just based on that initial overview.1 point
-
To be less diplomatic than Andy, who is spot on with his guidance, just ignore the oil analysis1 point
-
1 point
-
Inviting @mooneygirl for this conversation... Something that may be familiar to her... Best regards, -a-1 point
-
have a look at the skybolt website. They have an alternate suggestion of using small split washer to retain the camlock loosely within the hole, but still allowing it to move and let the cowls actually come apart. https://skybolt.com/portfolio/mooney/ They are very nice fasteners, just oversized enough to fit worn holes nicely. I bought a bunch to put on mine when it returns from minor surgery. Here are the instruction showing use of the washers. http://skybolt.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Mooney-Instructions.pdf iain1 point
-
1 point
-
With my 256 sitting above a G5... I fly nearly all the time with the G5 in ADI mode... It has a small HSI indication at the bottom and I can always look at my 530w for a map. I do this for a few reasons. 1- I have 2 adi's I can compare at all times. The turn coordinator is the tie breaker 2- I can set altitude clearances which is helpful and I get a bug on the alt tape. 3- the altitudes never really match up, so I can go off of the conservative one or split the diff in cruise. also, when flying above 180, on the way down I can set the area altimeter on one of them then set the other to match at transition.1 point
-
I wish I could. Hopefully, I can pick it up this Saturday, I need to get it to the Kansas City area, where it's going to be spending the next 6 months.1 point
-
Hi Everyone, The West Coast Mooney Club Summer Conference & Retreat is really taking shape and we already have a large group of pilots registered. It will be an awesome event! Sunriver Resort, Oregon (S21) June 11-14, 2020. Sponsorships keep coming in. Special thanks to LASAR and AIRSPEED INSURANCE for supporting our event. Special events include presentations by Don Maxwell, Jolie Lucas & Jan Maxwell (Right Seat Ready Class), Raffle Giveaways, Silent Auction in support of the Bill Gilliland Foundation, Hotel Discounts, Fuel & Tie Down Discounts, Spa Packages, Golf, River Rafting, Horseback Riding and so much more. Click the link below for more information. It's going to be a great time. SIGN UP TODAY! West Coast Mooney Club Summer Conference & Retreat - REGISTER HERE Mooney Club Sunriver Video.mp41 point
-
Agree with consistency - I've been practicing on and off. I go best glide, prop back, gear UP no flaps. Continuous glide toward the runway - keep the touchdown at the same visual plane in the windshield - until you have the field made and then use energy dissipating techniques - gear down, flaps, slip, to manage the buffer of energy you've stashed. You can get rid of energy but you can't take it back. Anticipating the distance (seconds) from the beginning of your flare to the actual touchdown spot for a given speed is key, so aim a bit ahead. I have electric gear and the procedure above departs from my SOP (i.e. puts me at risk for a GUL). Therefore I put my hand on the gear lever and don't take it off until the gear is selected / verified down. Hope this helps. Not a CFI. *** Also remember that the stripes / bars are not 200' long; they are 150' so you got a little wiggle room ***. https://www.faa.gov/airports/southern/airport_safety/part139_cert/media/aso-airfield-standards-quick-reference.pdf1 point
-
Thank you for the information and recommendations. I appreciate all the help that I can get.1 point
-
Filing IFR can be a burden at times at Mooney altitudes, especially in south Florida where you talk to act almost non stop. makes it impossible to have a conversation with someone flying with you. however, the benefits come when you least expect it, and can be overwhelmingly good. I filed ifr and flew to west palm one day to pick up a friend, bluebird day without a cloud in the sky, no ceilings in the forecast and clear metars at destination and departure. didn’t even shut the engine down to stop, they hopped in and off we went. 15 min later, in full imc, I lost ahrs, autopilot, traffic, horizon, and hsi. Not fun flying compass only during turbulence, backup horizon in about the worst possible location on the entire panel, and no slip... there was a LOT of traffic all around prior to this and I had not filed ifr, expecting great conditions, which by the way, they were departing airport and at my destination. picking up an ifr, in the air, under partial panel imc is something I hope to never do again. I file 99% of the time. just personal preference, because you just never really know.1 point
-
A couple of ideas: 1. Try practicing the maneuver with no flaps and aiming for midfield. You don't have to actually touch down if you don't want to, but be able to consistently hit that point. Once you can do that, you can use the flaps to steepen your descent to land shorter. The key is to learn to continuously visualize your glide path throughout the maneuver. Changes to speed and configuration makes this harder. 2. Your approach must be stabilized per the ACS. You should be able to do it with very little slipping if any. If you do need to slip, do it early and get out of the slip by 200' in order to get everything stabilized at a normal approach speed. Skip1 point
-
I start every time the same and get the same stumble you had noted. Leave throttle at 1100rpm when you shutdown, close the mixture. When starting LEAVE the throttle there. Mixture at full and run primer for 3-10 seconds, more when cold. Wait a couple of seconds, then crank. It should catch right away but might stumble a little. Run the primer again ( hold it down ) until it stabilizes. Lean mixture once stable to highest rpm. I think the stumble is from fuel draining out of the injection system and some time for the mechanical pump on the engine to get the fuel back up to it.1 point
-
It's a mindset problem. Filing IFR on every flight keeps you familiar with the system and you expect to encounter IMC weather - it's not a surprise. Even if you later cancel in the air and finish VFR, you're still using the system every time. One of the reminders I really appreciated in the training I recently got from Gary Reeves was that professional pilots expect to go missed approach and they have it all set up every time to do that. I got my IFR rating in 1995 and flew every flight IFR for years. I was out of flying a few years and in just those few years a lot of things had changed - WAAS approaches for one. The additional training I've been getting has been helpful in getting my IFR mindset back where it was 15-20 years ago. The capability I have on my panel today vs. mid 90's is amazing, but it's usually the pilot that's the weak link, not the equipment.1 point
-
When i first transitioned to my 231 I had lots of failed starts in the first time using the primer. The engine dired fine, ran 3-4 seconds and then started to die or died. Feeding it with the primer pump fro several seconds prevented that, but always gave me a roraing engine spooled up to 2000 or more RPM and forced me th pull back the throttle - and the engine sometimes died again. Anything changed by accepting a method from here: - Full rich - Throttle wide open - Then use the high boost pump for 6-8 seconds (8 in winter) - wait for ~ 10s - close throttle to position for ~1200RPM - crank the engine I never again have seen the engine dying. It runs smooth from the first second with ~1200-1400 RPM. May be thuis can help you1 point
-
Pg. 81 of REV 21 • G5 needs to be connected to the battery bus when installed: -As an Attitude Indicator (ADI), -installed in either the turn coordinator or attitude indicator position • G5 needs to be connected to the avionics bus when installed: -As a HSI -In the DG position1 point
-
Since it’s an angled fitting going to a hose... To deliver oil to the cabin... To have an analog needle display the OilP... It also has a safety device that restricts oil flow in the event of a leak It may be possible to find a straight flow restrictor... add angle further down stream... (two piece solution...) go with a digital pressure gauge, where a pressure sensor goes in the same hole... (see what EI has for oilP) pic of an EI pressure sensor... Below... lift the engine, loosen the mounting bolts, install the angled restrictor... Check the engine layout drawing to see if there are other taps available to the same source of oil pressure... Since OilP is a primary instrument... it becomes a bit of a challenge to use different fittings and different holes if they give a different result... The cost of the EI gauge and sensor and install is about 1amu... What is the cost to fix it right? PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a-1 point
-
That's interesting. Of course for me an hour is probably enough. If I have a complete electrical failure, I would not be continuing my flight longer than it took to make it to a suitable airfield.1 point
-
You can always remove the wires from the back of the speaker . . . Only one needs to be disconnected.1 point
-
Sometimes, sometimes not. I had 250+ hours in Barons including over 100 hours in the previous 12 months. Barons aren't that much different than Bonanzas. If I could safely fly a Baron I could probably safely fly a Bonanza. Plus I had a couple thousand hours in HP & complex airplanes. My transition training requirement into the Bonanza was simply a checkout by the seller (who was not a CFI) which tells me they didn't feel as though I was much of a risk in the airplane and risk drives premiums. Am I at less risk now at 125 hours in the Bonanza? Not by any meaningful standard.1 point
-
I have a JPI, but it just measures FF and keeps track of total (yes-based on fuel burn). Plus the wing fuel gauges. So four total fuel gauges (2 cockpit, 2 wing and JPI giving total). This is a lot more than most planes... Great idea to clean connections. Will try.1 point
-
The JPI 900 does both: senders and fuel flow totaling. If its a bad ground connection, which is common to all 6 gauges, I would expect more than just 1 gauge to show symptoms. If it’s a bad connection to sender, I would expect to see problems always, not just when fuel is low. Cies are close to 500/each, in the J that’s $2000 plus labor, the OP clearly indicated he didn’t want to spend a lot of money, Cies plus JPI 900 would run around $12,000...pretty sure that qualifies as “a lot of money”. Tom1 point
-
Director of Content and Social Media for full service digital ad agency working primarily with car dealers. https://www.imacsweb.com/1 point
-
Thanks @Cody Stallings for the kinds words. There are many people here that would have done the same. Let me know when we need to go rescue the fire-breather.1 point
-
hey everyone, I just went through rigging my M20L/R and had a heck of a time finding someone to rent me the boards. Mooney wants $2000 for the set!!! forget that. so I finally rented the set from Wilmer which cost about $200 including shipping both ways (after promissing him the world that I would return them - apparantly people rent and never return these) and decided to duplicate them and not have to beg in future... granted I'll prolly not need them again for a long time. Anyway, it was a huge pita but I did duplicate them and just so you know I drive myself nuts as to how nit picky I am so trust me when I say they are identical to the original. attached are photos of the copies next to the original. I believe mine are better since I used better wood than the factory (they use 3 layer oak plywood whereas I used 5 layer russian birch) and are stiffer and more dimensionaly stable... and better looking too. I scanned the scales 1:1 (confirmed) and had them printed on vinyl (similar to what is placed on cars, signs, etc) and laminated too. I cut aluminum as the substructure for the vinyl. used the existing handles and a quality router and made exact copies of the handles. got some "L" aluminum support pieces for the back (even though my wood didn't really need it since it is much stiffer that the factory wood. Their's will snap in half without the "L" support pieces). I assembled everything together which you have to be very exact about to make sure everything is right on. if something is off 1/32" at one end it will translate to several degrees error at the other end. finally I verified my copies are accurate by comparing them with the originals on my airplane to ascertain the same readings. And before anyone asks I am sorry but these won't be leaving my hanger anytime soon so don't bother asking. HOWEVER, I am willing to upload them to this site if possible or email anyone who wishes my scans as a starting point of duplicating these. you would still need the handles to copy which I can't scan (too big). I cleaned up these scans with photoshop and they are ready for print.1 point