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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    In mid September we (wife and I) closed on a 1995 M20J MSE. Since then, it has been in annual and we just came out the other side of that experience only moderately lighter in the wallet. We got the pre-buy and subsequent annual done by Sean at C & W Aero at KCDW. It was a good learning experience but I'm glad it's over. I did the flight from KCDW to KPOU with my CFI yesterday and it was both fun and challenging. On the flight we went through airwork maneuvers: steeps, stalls, slows, constant airspeed descents, AP familiarization, manual gear extension, speedbrake use, and managing energy approaching the destination. As a low timer with DA20 and C172 experience I was amazed how different certain maneuvers felt. For example, steep turns go nose low much more in the Mooney than I am used to. Also, the general cruise attitude of the plane looks different. My CFI was pointing out a tendency to fly more nose-high than I should. I was absolutely amazed at how docile the J felt in stalls (power on and off). There wasn't any strong wing dropping tendency or even much buffeting. I thought about asking to go through accelerated stalls, but maybe another time. I was feeling a little saturated. I thought I had hit the approach numbers pretty good and was 75 knots over the threshold with nearly full nose up trim yet still bounced once and then settled nicely for a smooth but slightly yawing landing. CFI reminded me to avoid the temptation to nose down after bounce and just wait for it to settle as you continue to hold it off the runway. It'll be better next time! It is a joy to fly. I'm excited about getting through the insurance probation period and being free to continue to practice on my own. Thank you MSers for all your words and experience. We definitely made the right choice of aircraft. Photo is me, my father-in-law (retired A&P), and my wife after I returned with my CFI.
  2. 10 points
    I started following Mooneyspace back around 2010. I was in between Mooneys and followed Parker's 201 and later his 252 with great interest. I got more active when I bought another Mooney in 2014. In times over a 20+ year period I had bought insurance through the AOPA agency, feeling that they were doing the best job of shopping rates for me and presenting options, which I feel that they were back then. I didn't get that feeling in 2014 so I switched to Falcon and really have no complaints, other than that I would send in my annual info in September and would have liked my quotes earlier. Earlier in 2019 when I heard that Parker was going to be an option I planned on getting him to quote me this fall. I met him and his wife in April at Sun N Fun and everything I had heard was true - very sincere, honest people. I let him know when my policy was due and he reached out a few weeks ago. I'm glad I switched. Outstanding experience! Very knowledgeable, very responsive. A huge plus is that he speaks "Mooney". This is an unsolicited endorsement - but give @Parker_Woodruff a shot at your business - you won't be disappointed.
  3. 5 points
    Light Painting of Maggie in San Diego. Wonderful gift of light painted photos by : Gary Buzel who is a pro photographer and the VP of King Schools [does all the video production]. This was a Montgomery Field in San Diego. Here is Gary's website: https://www.illumigraphic.com/ and https://www.creighphotography.com/ The photo shoot was such a blast. Christmas is coming! My advice: Get a session booked today. Second piece of advice: when able, be a Unicorn!
  4. 5 points
    At the risk of beating a dead horse even more, I took some pictures of the standard fuel drain valve and the suggested alternate, plus the plate nut which is in the wing tank of many Mooneys. In the first picture, the standard(correct) drain valve is on the left, the alternate is on the right and the plate nut is in the center. Note that the correct valve has holes which align with the arches in the plate nut, this allows water and contaminates to drain off the bottom of the tank. The alternate valve on the right has drain holes which are above the plate nut and have no means of draining water or contaminates from the bottom of the tank through the arches. This valve can allow about 3/8” of water and contaminates to collect in the fuel tank never to be drained, hardly and improvement is safety. Water causes engine failures and corrosion inside your fuel tanks. The second picture shows the difference in O ring size, the correct O ring should seal against the lower wing skin, the alternate valve will force the O ring into the opening in the lower wing skin. I hopes this helps. Clarence
  5. 4 points
    Buy the nicest, newest and fastest plane you can comfortably afford to pay for and maintain.
  6. 3 points
    I've seen a few bounces from the ground as an observer. This didn't fee like that. It was more like a stone skipping across a pond. No pitching or rolling around. I was rounding out and felt the wheels gently touch the runway and then I was climbing for a moment. I was about to push in the throttle, but my CFI said "just hold it". It was a 5,000 ft runway and the first contact was at the 1,000 ft marker. Turned off with about 2,000 ft to spare and light braking.
  7. 3 points
    Torque it precisely, then lock wire it. Then un-torque it to get the lock wire on, then re-torque it, rinse repeat. And who doesn’t love screwing it on 1/6 of a turn at a time X six bolts. We all must love this aviation thing!
  8. 2 points
    After reading through several of the posts on here on installing Shoulder Harnesses on an older short-body Mooney, I figured I'd give back to the community with our process on installing inertial reel shoulder harnesses on our 1965 Mooney M20E. Resources/Reference Threads Which kit we installed, and what to know before you order? We installed the inertial reel shoulder harnesses with lift-lever buckle release from Alpha Aviation: https://alphaaviation.com/mooney-m20-a-thru-k-front-inertial-reel-shoulder-lap-belt-replacement-upgrade-lift-lever-buckle/ . Can't say enough good things about them, they were extremely helpful over the phone and when we lost some of the washers in the included minor change kit (more on that later), they were kind enough to mail me a baggie full at no additional cost. Before you order, you need to know 3 things: What's the attachment point of the seatbelt to the airplane? There are two. Either it is bolted on where a bolt goes through to attach it to the airplane, or it's hooked on, where there's a metal hook clamp at the end of the lap belt that hooks into the metal ring on the seat. What colour do you want? Match the interior. We went with the Fawn, they look great! Push Button or Lift Lever? Personal preference. They say not to use the lift lever with the manual gear, however after a half dozen flights on ours with the Johnson bar I've never had it release on me or cause issues. Now the fun part - installing! Tools Needed: Masking Tape Set of wrenches, if I remember correctly, a 9/16ths and a 5/8ths is what we used the most Handy phillips head screwdriver Slack-jaw pliers Needle-nose pliers Socket head wrench for the bolt (or you can do it with a regular wrench) Cotter pins since you're removing the seat Drill with multiple bits (recommended a rotary ream) Overview Video IMG_2630.MOV Step One Remove the seats. You're going to need the access, and this makes it easier to unhook the old seatbelts anyways. Step Two Pray to Al that the engineers when assembling your particular Mooney gave you a little bit of clearance between the steel bars of the cage and the skin of the aircraft. Okay, now you're ready to get started. Do the pilot's side first, it's by far the hardest, and also the one you're most frequent to use. Step Three Remove the side-plastics on the side you're working on, for this guide, I'm going to focus on the Pilot's side as I recommend to do that one first. Remove the window surrounds - side plastics/paneling around the windows. Remove the headliner. Step Four Now the fun part. Take the clamp, and open the clamp up by inserting a screwdriver into each hole opposite of each other so they make an X, then push against them to open the clamp up so it will fit over the tube. You're going to need to install the clamp, included with the minor change kit, around the structural tube that runs in between the two windows with the flange & screw holes facing aft. This is murder. It is very hard to get the clamp on and turned around and took us probably 3-4 hours to do it. I wish I had advice for you, but there's not really any. What we did was used the needle nose pliers to hold the aluminum around the tube back and then just brute forced it on and kept pushing/turning, pushing/turning until it was where it needed to be. One thing that makes it a little easier - try to find the place with the most clearance between the skin of the aircraft and the tube. For us, it was at the top under the headliner. We worked it on there then just shimmied the clamp down. Step Five Once you finally have it turned around, align the clamp to the vertical midpoint of the two windows, then use those slack-jaw pliers to tighten the clamp. Step Six Now it's time to do a test fit. The minor change kit includes the bolt, washers, spacers, and nut that you'll need. They are going to go through the provided hole on the inertial reel box, then through the two holes on the clamp, affixing the nut on the end of the bolt (spoiler alert: tightening the bolt on to that nut is like doing open heart surgery with swiss army knife tweezers), like so. Step Seven Do a test fit with the bolt through the clamp holes. Is the clamp in the right position or is it too high/too low? Step Eight Take the plastic window surrounds you removed earlier and line it up with the bolt holes on the clamp to determine where you need to drill the hole for the bolt to go through the plastic and into the clamp. It's more of an art than a science and requires some eye-balling. Mask off the hole, then use your drill & rotary ream to drill a hole big enough for the bolt to go through in the plastic window surrounds. Step Nine Make a blood sacrifice to Al. This part took us the longest. You're going to have to put the bolt through the inertial reel box, through the plastic window surrounds, through the bolt holes of the clamp, and hold the nut at the end of the clamp in place while you tighten the bolt on. Congratulations, you've got about an inch and a quarter to work with to hold it in place, and I hope you're instrument rated because you're not going to be able to see anything as the plastic is covering it. We tried several methods to do this, including using masking tape to tape the nut to the wrench itself but no matter how tightly we got it, it never was enough to hold tension for the bolt to start to thread through. Good luck, and may the Mooney gods be with you. Step Ten Once that's on, torque it to the appropriate setting (I want to say it was 70 or 90 inch pounds) and put the plastic cover back on the inertial reel. Step Eleven Reinstall the headliner, plastics, etc. into place. Step Twelve Reinstall the seat, install new cotter pin, and install the lap belt back on to the seat, then do a test fit. Crack open a cold one, sit back and admire your work, and look at your watch as you realize that just took you almost a full day. I hope you found this helpful, this was not a fun process, but I will say the passenger's side is much easier (a lot more clearance, and you can actually see!) and rest knowing your flying now just became a lot safer. Apologies for the sideways pictures, they are right side up on my computer but inserting rotated...
  9. 2 points
    Yes, just be sure to pay attention to any policy limitations: horsepower, max seats, landing gear configuration, max value covered, etc.
  10. 2 points
    Thanks all for your support. If any of you are (understandably) concerned about placing your business with a new agency, I'm happy to report that we were profitable as of about July 1 (6 months in business). I'm presently licensed in 50 states plus DC (most expensive startup cost). By far the best marketing dollars are Sun 'n Fun and this MooneySpace sponsorship. Thanks again, all.
  11. 2 points
    Cut that little piece of tape and put it on your ASI, clean stall speed x 1.404
  12. 2 points
    I suspect it wasn't so much a stall spin but collision with the high power lines almost directly above that you can see in the video and that Nick refers to above. Perhap they were maneuvering to the very nearby private airport 61VA. I wondered if it could be an instructional flight but I see the Captain's CFI expired some 35+ years ago, so probably not. But if indeed it was a collision with the power lines, something had them flying very low and the best I could come up with is the very close by private airport. Perhaps the preliminary will tell us. Wonder if the power lines have the large orange balls on them like they do out west? I couldn't tell from the satellite view.
  13. 2 points
    So the best way to adjust the roll threshold is to max out the pot until it produces a slight roll oscillation and then back it off until the oscillation stops. There is a product that Bob has suggested to me and I have started using that works wonders with connector pin issues. Stabilant 22, you can find it online. I have been using it for about a year and had great results.
  14. 2 points
    Winchester connectors used to have a machined 4 pin female connector that worked great but I have not been able to locate the connector for some time. Using a small pick you can push the female split pins back together. Sometimes this will fix the intermittent issues that are connector related.
  15. 2 points
    MSA is published and available on charts and approach plates. The MVA is generally only known by the controllers.
  16. 2 points
    And replace your alternator belt while the prop is off.
  17. 2 points
    Nice pictures! That's the spring inside the cartridge that pulls in one direction. There is an external spring that pulls in the other. The springs bias the elevator as the empennage moves with the trim. Without the bungees, the trim system would have to change the incidence of the tail by a greater amount to get the same trim effect. This system was used up through the J. Skip
  18. 2 points
    Welcome aboard, edmg... My kids survived a decade in the back of a raggedy M20C... When they were tiny they got to wear ear muff style sound protection... No problems having them keep them on... kept their ears warm in the winter with the lower sound levels... @12k’ they were sound asleep... they were often asleep after engine start up... also check on what the plane has for a CO monitor. Kids sleeping is one thing... PICs sleeping is unacceptable. Best regards, -a-
  19. 2 points
    They seal better if dry, they go on better if they have a little lube. Lube them with a little mineral sprits or alcohol, which will dry up.
  20. 2 points
    It is me José N11606. The -72 holes are about 1/4" above the bottom (well below the fuel pickup screen). I found about this on an engine failure on takeoff on my old M20C based at TJBQ on the ramp. The runway was 9,000 ft long so I Ianded on it and taxi out with the momentum. On the taxiway I drained the tanks with the old 53S valves and only fuel came out just like it did before flight when I drained them. I decided to unscrew the valves and plenty of water came out. Once the -53S nutplate drain holes are clogged they will not drain water but fuel at the top of the valve stem. The higher water accumulated level raises toward the fuel pickup when the plane accelerates and climb causing the engine malfunction. This why the malfunction does no show on the ground run up. Have been using the -72S for over 20 years with no leaks and no engine failure. The nutplate bottom drain holes can easily be plugged during tank reseal or by old sealant debris. If using the -53S make sure the drain stream is greater than yours on a palm tree, otherwise suspect a clogged nut plate drain holes.
  21. 2 points
    I loved my 1980 231’s eager climb from sea level right on up to the high teens, which made climbing over weather, bumps, and mountains very quick. Liked built-in O2, but refills were a pita. The turbo took management, easing the throttle in on takeoff, messing with cowl flaps, watching CHTs, and so forth. I live at 7 feet MSL, and it turned out that taking headwinds into account, most of my flying over the years didn’t take advantage of the turbocharger’s skills. I now have a 1999 M20S Screaming Eagle, and like the long body very much. Lots of leg room, baggage space, plenty of useful load, and 7+ hours of fuel. Found I really didn’t much miss the turbo on a recent trip from NC’s Atlantic Ocean to Oregon’s Pacific, as lower routes were fine even through the Rockies and Cascades. The plane seems very happy at 12,500’.. Book says it’ll go to 20K, though. Haven’t tried that.There’s plenty of power for high DAs, though, and the simplicity of flying this poor girl’s Ovation is astonishing. Just firewall the throttle and aim the pointy end up. No cowl flaps, no temperature worries, decent panel. I happy!
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    It’s likely PRC fuel tank sealant. Use a sharpened piece of plexiglass to carefully peel the old material off. Mask the metal and window allowing for a pleasing width, clean everything with IPA, mix sealant and apply, use a tongue depressor to smooth the sealant leaving a nice radius, remove masking tape. Clarence
  24. 2 points
    If a J without a turbo doesn’t limit you, I would look at an Ovation first. Clarence
  25. 2 points
    My two cents on the subject To avoid any stains on the valve I replaced the F391-53S valve for the F391- 72 valve used on Cessnas and many others and sealed the threads. No leaks and drains better than me on a palm tree. The - 53S has the drain holes at the very bottom of the threads. It drains through the little holes on the nut plate F391-53- SMP-2. If the nut plate little holes at the bottom are easily plugged with debris or sealant the drain valve will drain fuel but no water from the very top of the stem. The -72 drain holes are just above the threads of the nut plate. So debris or sealant on the nutplate will not block the drain valve holes. Because of this you can put sealant on the threads (no need for the O-ring) to avoid leaks without impairing the draining ability. These are the same ones used in the Monroy long range tanks.
  26. 2 points
    I had one of those update questions come up and almost pushed the wrong button. I don't remember the exact verbiage, but I thought it was along the lines of Update Now, Update Later, and do not update. The "Update Later" turned out to mean it would update later that night (or something along those lines). Is it possible that's what happened to you?
  27. 2 points
  28. 1 point
    Hello guys here is an update: As per your advice on anonymity and knowing it would lead to possible bad area I deleted the post but didn't want to leave you hanging. As of yesterday morning the problem item you know about has been "resolved". Item in question is physically red-tagged. Thanks to everyone for their sound advice!
  29. 1 point
    for what it is worth.....this company that makes door rubber gaskets is telling me with their rubber gaskets we don't need the welting anymore....
  30. 1 point
    Thanks, I am neither a CFI or commercial so when I fly another plane it is pleasure or business. I assume that would include moving a friend's plane to/from a maintenance shop or to ferry someones plane, w/o compensation of course.
  31. 1 point
    One bounce followed by a good recovery is just fine. Going around has it's own complexities and while you should be comfortable with it, it's generally no problem to salvage the landing after a bounce. On the other hand, someone who bounces a second time, or third time, probably isn't salvaging anything and would be best to take it around and try again. But I think the Mooneys are easy to land. Finish up the hours for insurance and then get out there and work it out. You'll figure it out quickly and get really good at landing.
  32. 1 point
    My Century IIb with STEC-30 ALT is perfectly level and straight with no oscillating in heading mode. When I go to NAV mode running off of the Avidyne 440 I have a slight oscillation that I was not able to adjust out. The altitude hold works perfect if I manually trim it slightly up or down, but if I trim it perfect then turn on the STEC-30 ALT hold it hunts up and down and is uncomfortable. If it does that I turn the trim up or down slightly then is butter smooth.
  33. 1 point
    The (new to me) self darkening welding hoods are wonderful.
  34. 1 point
    I use forceps and needle nose pliers. Was kind of disappointed when the IA said "That is passable, but we don't want people knowing that came from our shop, do it over"
  35. 1 point
    I didn't like the curved windows at first. but I saw a photo of my aircraft in flight, and saw how the curved windows reflected the curved lines in back. it really is quite lovely. Now I like it just fine.
  36. 1 point
    Parker saved me some money and is great to deal with. Knowledgeable, and honest. You may not like what’s going on in the Aviation Insurance world but he will give it to you straight, without the sugar coating.
  37. 1 point
    Four long and two short bushing is normal, one will be oversized when measured and compared to the others. The oversized bushing must line up with the oversized hole in the ring gear support or the timing marks won’t be correct. If installed wrong the oversized bushing will easily punch a new oversized hole in the ring gear support. The propeller normally has four counterbored holes holes in the hub, these must align with the four longer bushing on the crankshaft. Lubricate the O ring, install and torque the bolts and safety in pairs as described. The Hartzell manual shows 0.032” safety wire under the consumables section, but most prefer 0.041” safety wire. Clarence
  38. 1 point
    My experiences...... please do lubricate new O ring fully prior to installation into hub. Fresh engine oil as a lubricant will be fine.
  39. 1 point
    Engine oil is fine. Both the “o” on the prop flange and the “O” on the flywheel should line up. The flywheel should only fit one way. who didn’t index it? Lol. -Matt
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Make sure you have the proper Hartzell o ring. Anything else will leak. They are expensive, like $6
  42. 1 point
    Well, where do you have automatic updates turned off? There are at least two places where you can do something like that. One is in Settings>iTunes & Apps, there are a couple of buttons there, where you can turn off App updating, or Automatic Downloads of cell data. The one that counts the most is in in Settings>General>Software Updates, where there is a menu item to enable or disable automatic updates. That one should be off. I also keep the Automatic Downloads of cell data off in Settings>iTunes & App Store. I don’t have a problem with my iPad downloading OS updates with those settings. I just checked, Settings>General>Software Updates says I still have not downloaded 13.1.3 . I also usually keep Settings>Cellular Data off unless I have a reason to use the cell connection to download something. If you leave it on and the iPad makes its own choice, you can wind up downloading too much data and blow through your monthly account limit. That would also prevent your iPad from using the cell connection to autodownload an OS update. Don’t know the answer for sure, I just know I don’t have the problem on my iPad.
  43. 1 point
    Shorts and a T-shirt is so we can run the AC unit in the deer blind on low
  44. 1 point
    USAIG is a good company with good claims service. So are Old Republic (I used to work for them as an underwriter) and Starr.
  45. 1 point
    My Mooney is noticeably quieter than when I leave the door open.
  46. 1 point
    Originally, I wanted to repair the plastic door panel, but after a few tries, I decided to go for a new panel. This was the old one, cracked up at all the wrong places... So I bought a new panel and we did a lot of trimming to make it fit. Some areas were problematic, like the upper right side, the extra material would interfere and not permit to achieve a tight closure. To match the holes, we used screw that we decapitated, screwed into existing holes and applied pressure. Decided to use larger screws and put less of them and I prefer that less cluttered look. We'll finish it with silicone after the winter season.
  47. 1 point
    Thanks. The slide button to automatic updates is turned off yet it still updated on its own. I have a message on the Apple Forum Community right now but no one has responded. It is really not that big of a deal other than I have an issue with computer devices taking on a sort of AI and doing things when I have clearly stated I do not want them to be done. Apple seems to be the main offender. They feel they know what is right for you and your device and do it without asking. My android phone is now getting to be that way with Google.
  48. 1 point
    I have also been emailed by the guy named Max at blackbird. Haven’t really talked to him yet but I put a lot of time into my airplane and wouldn’t feel good turning it into a rental because you know. Nothing out performs a rental!
  49. 1 point
    Find an accomplished, knowledgeable Mooney guy to help you understand what to look for. Better yet, hire him to look for and with you. Be passionate about searching...you’ll be learning a thing or two on the fly, pun. There are many strengths and weaknesses to look for. Not knowing can cost a bundle... no guesses. The art is in the buy, and can be a real fun part of the journey. I see folks try to buy the best price deal possible and while that may work for some, it turns into alligator tears for others. And a huge consideration might be, buy from someone who can afford to own an airplane... stay away from those guys that buy a ship, park it outside and wear everything down to a nub. Look for the best cream puff your budget will allow. Right now you don’t know much, most here have been in your shoes... well, not your shoes, but shoes like yours, me included. Enjoy the Chinese arithmetic.
  50. 1 point
    Your servo has two circuits. one that runs the motor bidirectionally. The other powers the engagement solenoid. It sounds like your engagement solenoid isn't working. I would suspect wiring and connectors more than your solenoid. It is unlikely to fail. Have your mechanic disconnect the connector by the servo and put a meter on the wires from the plane. Two of the wires should go to battery voltage when the autopilot is engaged. The other two should go from about -10 to +10 volts depending on where the roll knob is set.

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