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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Light Painting of Maggie in San Diego. Wonderful gift of light painted photos by : Gary Buzel who is a pro photographer and the VP of King Schools [does all the video production]. This was a Montgomery Field in San Diego. Here is Gary's website: https://www.illumigraphic.com/ and https://www.creighphotography.com/ The photo shoot was such a blast. Christmas is coming! My advice: Get a session booked today. Second piece of advice: when able, be a Unicorn!
  2. 4 points
    Buy the nicest, newest and fastest plane you can comfortably afford to pay for and maintain.
  3. 2 points
    After reading through several of the posts on here on installing Shoulder Harnesses on an older short-body Mooney, I figured I'd give back to the community with our process on installing inertial reel shoulder harnesses on our 1965 Mooney M20E. Resources/Reference Threads Which kit we installed, and what to know before you order? We installed the inertial reel shoulder harnesses with lift-lever buckle release from Alpha Aviation: https://alphaaviation.com/mooney-m20-a-thru-k-front-inertial-reel-shoulder-lap-belt-replacement-upgrade-lift-lever-buckle/ . Can't say enough good things about them, they were extremely helpful over the phone and when we lost some of the washers in the included minor change kit (more on that later), they were kind enough to mail me a baggie full at no additional cost. Before you order, you need to know 3 things: What's the attachment point of the seatbelt to the airplane? There are two. Either it is bolted on where a bolt goes through to attach it to the airplane, or it's hooked on, where there's a metal hook clamp at the end of the lap belt that hooks into the metal ring on the seat. What colour do you want? Match the interior. We went with the Fawn, they look great! Push Button or Lift Lever? Personal preference. They say not to use the lift lever with the manual gear, however after a half dozen flights on ours with the Johnson bar I've never had it release on me or cause issues. Now the fun part - installing! Tools Needed: Masking Tape Set of wrenches, if I remember correctly, a 9/16ths and a 5/8ths is what we used the most Handy phillips head screwdriver Slack-jaw pliers Needle-nose pliers Socket head wrench for the bolt (or you can do it with a regular wrench) Cotter pins since you're removing the seat Drill with multiple bits (recommended a rotary ream) Overview Video IMG_2630.MOV Step One Remove the seats. You're going to need the access, and this makes it easier to unhook the old seatbelts anyways. Step Two Pray to Al that the engineers when assembling your particular Mooney gave you a little bit of clearance between the steel bars of the cage and the skin of the aircraft. Okay, now you're ready to get started. Do the pilot's side first, it's by far the hardest, and also the one you're most frequent to use. Step Three Remove the side-plastics on the side you're working on, for this guide, I'm going to focus on the Pilot's side as I recommend to do that one first. Remove the window surrounds - side plastics/paneling around the windows. Remove the headliner. Step Four Now the fun part. Take the clamp, and open the clamp up by inserting a screwdriver into each hole opposite of each other so they make an X, then push against them to open the clamp up so it will fit over the tube. You're going to need to install the clamp, included with the minor change kit, around the structural tube that runs in between the two windows with the flange & screw holes facing aft. This is murder. It is very hard to get the clamp on and turned around and took us probably 3-4 hours to do it. I wish I had advice for you, but there's not really any. What we did was used the needle nose pliers to hold the aluminum around the tube back and then just brute forced it on and kept pushing/turning, pushing/turning until it was where it needed to be. One thing that makes it a little easier - try to find the place with the most clearance between the skin of the aircraft and the tube. For us, it was at the top under the headliner. We worked it on there then just shimmied the clamp down. Step Five Once you finally have it turned around, align the clamp to the vertical midpoint of the two windows, then use those slack-jaw pliers to tighten the clamp. Step Six Now it's time to do a test fit. The minor change kit includes the bolt, washers, spacers, and nut that you'll need. They are going to go through the provided hole on the inertial reel box, then through the two holes on the clamp, affixing the nut on the end of the bolt (spoiler alert: tightening the bolt on to that nut is like doing open heart surgery with swiss army knife tweezers), like so. Step Seven Do a test fit with the bolt through the clamp holes. Is the clamp in the right position or is it too high/too low? Step Eight Take the plastic window surrounds you removed earlier and line it up with the bolt holes on the clamp to determine where you need to drill the hole for the bolt to go through the plastic and into the clamp. It's more of an art than a science and requires some eye-balling. Mask off the hole, then use your drill & rotary ream to drill a hole big enough for the bolt to go through in the plastic window surrounds. Step Nine Make a blood sacrifice to Al. This part took us the longest. You're going to have to put the bolt through the inertial reel box, through the plastic window surrounds, through the bolt holes of the clamp, and hold the nut at the end of the clamp in place while you tighten the bolt on. Congratulations, you've got about an inch and a quarter to work with to hold it in place, and I hope you're instrument rated because you're not going to be able to see anything as the plastic is covering it. We tried several methods to do this, including using masking tape to tape the nut to the wrench itself but no matter how tightly we got it, it never was enough to hold tension for the bolt to start to thread through. Good luck, and may the Mooney gods be with you. Step Ten Once that's on, torque it to the appropriate setting (I want to say it was 70 or 90 inch pounds) and put the plastic cover back on the inertial reel. Step Eleven Reinstall the headliner, plastics, etc. into place. Step Twelve Reinstall the seat, install new cotter pin, and install the lap belt back on to the seat, then do a test fit. Crack open a cold one, sit back and admire your work, and look at your watch as you realize that just took you almost a full day. I hope you found this helpful, this was not a fun process, but I will say the passenger's side is much easier (a lot more clearance, and you can actually see!) and rest knowing your flying now just became a lot safer. Apologies for the sideways pictures, they are right side up on my computer but inserting rotated...
  4. 2 points
    It is me José N11606. The -72 holes are about 1/4" above the bottom (well below the fuel pickup screen). I found about this on an engine failure on takeoff on my old M20C based at TJBQ on the ramp. The runway was 9,000 ft long so I Ianded on it and taxi out with the momentum. On the taxiway I drained the tanks with the old 53S valves and only fuel came out just like it did before flight when I drained them. I decided to unscrew the valves and plenty of water came out. Once the -53S nutplate drain holes are clogged they will not drain water but fuel at the top of the valve stem. The higher water accumulated level raises toward the fuel pickup when the plane accelerates and climb causing the engine malfunction. This why the malfunction does no show on the ground run up. Have been using the -72S for over 20 years with no leaks and no engine failure. The nutplate bottom drain holes can easily be plugged during tank reseal or by old sealant debris. If using the -53S make sure the drain stream is greater than yours on a palm tree, otherwise suspect a clogged nut plate drain holes.
  5. 2 points
    I loved my 1980 231’s eager climb from sea level right on up to the high teens, which made climbing over weather, bumps, and mountains very quick. Liked built-in O2, but refills were a pita. The turbo took management, easing the throttle in on takeoff, messing with cowl flaps, watching CHTs, and so forth. I live at 7 feet MSL, and it turned out that taking headwinds into account, most of my flying over the years didn’t take advantage of the turbocharger’s skills. I now have a 1999 M20S Screaming Eagle, and like the long body very much. Lots of leg room, baggage space, plenty of useful load, and 7+ hours of fuel. Found I really didn’t much miss the turbo on a recent trip from NC’s Atlantic Ocean to Oregon’s Pacific, as lower routes were fine even through the Rockies and Cascades. The plane seems very happy at 12,500’.. Book says it’ll go to 20K, though. Haven’t tried that.There’s plenty of power for high DAs, though, and the simplicity of flying this poor girl’s Ovation is astonishing. Just firewall the throttle and aim the pointy end up. No cowl flaps, no temperature worries, decent panel. I happy!
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    It’s likely PRC fuel tank sealant. Use a sharpened piece of plexiglass to carefully peel the old material off. Mask the metal and window allowing for a pleasing width, clean everything with IPA, mix sealant and apply, use a tongue depressor to smooth the sealant leaving a nice radius, remove masking tape. Clarence
  8. 2 points
    If a J without a turbo doesn’t limit you, I would look at an Ovation first. Clarence
  9. 2 points
    My two cents on the subject To avoid any stains on the valve I replaced the F391-53S valve for the F391- 72 valve used on Cessnas and many others and sealed the threads. No leaks and drains better than me on a palm tree. The - 53S has the drain holes at the very bottom of the threads. It drains through the little holes on the nut plate F391-53- SMP-2. If the nut plate little holes at the bottom are easily plugged with debris or sealant the drain valve will drain fuel but no water from the very top of the stem. The -72 drain holes are just above the threads of the nut plate. So debris or sealant on the nutplate will not block the drain valve holes. Because of this you can put sealant on the threads (no need for the O-ring) to avoid leaks without impairing the draining ability. These are the same ones used in the Monroy long range tanks.
  10. 2 points
    I had one of those update questions come up and almost pushed the wrong button. I don't remember the exact verbiage, but I thought it was along the lines of Update Now, Update Later, and do not update. The "Update Later" turned out to mean it would update later that night (or something along those lines). Is it possible that's what happened to you?
  11. 2 points
  12. 1 point
    Hey all, Rocket Drivers especially: my 86 Rocket fresh out of paint and interior today. Good as new, faster than new (almost) but 1/4 the price! What a machine!
  13. 1 point
    Hello guys here is an update: As per your advice on anonymity and knowing it would lead to possible bad area I deleted the post but didn't want to leave you hanging. As of yesterday morning the problem item you know about has been "resolved". Item in question is physically red-tagged. Thanks to everyone for their sound advice!
  14. 1 point
    Make sure you have the proper Hartzell o ring. Anything else will leak. They are expensive, like $6
  15. 1 point
    Emergency Descents are new to me and are now part of the Private Pilot training. As you know older POH's weren't much better than a "Thank You" card for buying their aircraft (well maybe a little more detailed). The 172 checklist (highly modified from the POH, by the CFI/DPE that use to lease it) for the procedure is "Carb Heat ON, Power to Idle, Airspeed 100 mph and Full Flaps (40°), you are headed down hill quickly (VSI was pegged at 2000 fpm). I was at 4500 ft when I started the maneuver, "cleared the throttle" going through 3000 and leveled off at 1500, its a fun maneuver but I still like Slips better . Very little in the POH about carb heat other than you should see an RPM drop when applied, but no mention to how much of a drop. I generally see a 100 rpm drop on the run-up (1700 rpm) and a little less at higher RPM's. I've had carb ice in cruise 3 times, twice in this plane and once in a Cessna 150 (both Conti powered)
  16. 1 point
    Beautiful! way to go Jolie! The ArtCraft paint is still looking superb! Use caution... Gary’s photography skills seem to erase a few years of age... Thanks for sharing the details and the pics. Best regards, -a-
  17. 1 point
    Well, where do you have automatic updates turned off? There are at least two places where you can do something like that. One is in Settings>iTunes & Apps, there are a couple of buttons there, where you can turn off App updating, or Automatic Downloads of cell data. The one that counts the most is in in Settings>General>Software Updates, where there is a menu item to enable or disable automatic updates. That one should be off. I also keep the Automatic Downloads of cell data off in Settings>iTunes & App Store. I don’t have a problem with my iPad downloading OS updates with those settings. I just checked, Settings>General>Software Updates says I still have not downloaded 13.1.3 . I also usually keep Settings>Cellular Data off unless I have a reason to use the cell connection to download something. If you leave it on and the iPad makes its own choice, you can wind up downloading too much data and blow through your monthly account limit. That would also prevent your iPad from using the cell connection to autodownload an OS update. Don’t know the answer for sure, I just know I don’t have the problem on my iPad.
  18. 1 point
    It sounds like you hadn’t used the carburetor heat during the practice emergency descent and that would add to my suspicions that it was carb ice. I have a 150 hp Lycoming in mine and anytime we power back below about 2000 rpm, the carb heat is on.
  19. 1 point
    Shorts and a T-shirt is so we can run the AC unit in the deer blind on low
  20. 1 point
    With fuel in the tank use compressed air to blow over the surface to evaporate the fuel. Roll some tissue paper into a point and probe around the circumference of the valve, the paper will instantly wick up the fuel. Cherry Max rivets are contrary to the SB, and may be the cause of the leak, but the condition of the skin is also in question. Damage to the skin can tear the O ring under the valve. It’s normally an MS29513-014. Clarence
  21. 1 point
    I’m biased, but I would go turbo/ Bravo based on flying the western mountains. If mostly flying below FLs and East of the Rockies, than an Ovation would be a great choice. I think most turbo pilots who fly over the Rockies and Sierras are pretty happy they have a turbo.
  22. 1 point
    There's no need to work about the turbo I'd you fly and maintain it correctly Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
  23. 1 point
    We have a 15 lb. mixed terrier. Wife wanted a companion for him. I relented saying don't get something that will be larger than him. Chihuahua mix. Right. In 6 weeks it has gone from 8 lbs. to 23. Must be Chihuahua Grande. It's gonna eat my new seats. 27 Pounds today, 10/31. Thing grows overnight!
  24. 1 point
    Of everything I see out there,this would be my choice: https://www.controller.com/listings/aircraft/for-sale/155264785/1997-mooney-m20m-bravo Only issue I see here is the 430w. They have everything you need but not sure about indefinite support... Also, I’m no aircraft appraiser but considering the 430’s and everything else, feels like there is some room in the price. Yes, those aspens aren’t cheap but neither are 750s and 650s. Don’t want to be selling the equivalent of a KLN-94 to someone else if you want to get out of the plane in the next 3-4 years.
  25. 1 point
    Regardless, RH is at its peak just below the cloud bases . . . .
  26. 1 point
    Id say ovation. Same power as a bravo at 8 to 9k, and same speed if not faster on less fuel. Dont have a turbo to worry about either
  27. 1 point
    Thanks Anthony. Always a pleasure to read your posts.
  28. 1 point
    Here it is. I got it from Mooney directly because I was in the same boat as you. Non of the wiring harness number matched and there are slight differences. Since I paid for the all the lot of manuals when I got my airplane, there was a blurb in there that not all model electrical diagrams are included and that I would need to contact Mooney to get the one specific for my airplane. cheers. sci-800269l-0.pdf
  29. 1 point
    USAIG is a good company with good claims service. So are Old Republic (I used to work for them as an underwriter) and Starr.
  30. 1 point
    I do engine breathers in stainless, we mfg a jig for production cross reference On the lower, we add a 1/2 ice hole 6 inches from tip After inspection, they get buffed out on our Bandor polisher The upper breather is 3/4. we slide on 5/8 for a tight look, finish with heat shrink so there is no wicking Questions, just ask.... Made to your sample The m20k/m252 will be the next group going bad as owners fail to clean and install new firejacket
  31. 1 point
    My Mooney is noticeably quieter than when I leave the door open.
  32. 1 point
    Originally, I wanted to repair the plastic door panel, but after a few tries, I decided to go for a new panel. This was the old one, cracked up at all the wrong places... So I bought a new panel and we did a lot of trimming to make it fit. Some areas were problematic, like the upper right side, the extra material would interfere and not permit to achieve a tight closure. To match the holes, we used screw that we decapitated, screwed into existing holes and applied pressure. Decided to use larger screws and put less of them and I prefer that less cluttered look. We'll finish it with silicone after the winter season.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks. The slide button to automatic updates is turned off yet it still updated on its own. I have a message on the Apple Forum Community right now but no one has responded. It is really not that big of a deal other than I have an issue with computer devices taking on a sort of AI and doing things when I have clearly stated I do not want them to be done. Apple seems to be the main offender. They feel they know what is right for you and your device and do it without asking. My android phone is now getting to be that way with Google.
  34. 1 point
    Yeah, I had a feeling that it wasn’t the factory piece....and it has no whistle hole. It must have been put there prior to the last engine overhaul, perhaps to do exactly as you suggest... I will need to fix this!
  35. 1 point
    I have also been emailed by the guy named Max at blackbird. Haven’t really talked to him yet but I put a lot of time into my airplane and wouldn’t feel good turning it into a rental because you know. Nothing out performs a rental!
  36. 1 point
    Posthole digger some 4x4 woodposts and some sacrete. Through bolt to the steel. Or you could pour a post, embed some steel and through bolt.
  37. 1 point
    The loss you describe is unlikely, but it is not unreasonable to want the person providing training to have their own insurance coverage. You will just have a smaller pool of CFIs to provide services to you. You'll also have to note your policy will pay out first and they'll subrogate (if they can) on the CFI's policy. So you'll have a bad loss ratio for awhile. This is because the CFI's policy is only going to pay out if legally responsible or if the insurance company wants to settle, knowing their client is responsible for the occurrence. I would accept this kind of legal and financial risk as a CFI as long as I knew my services were keeping within the terms of your insurance policy. But it is also entirely reasonable for the CFIs here to go about their risk-averse strategies.
  38. 1 point
    I got a message within Pilot saying they are finished testing and that I could update..
  39. 1 point
    Find an accomplished, knowledgeable Mooney guy to help you understand what to look for. Better yet, hire him to look for and with you. Be passionate about searching...you’ll be learning a thing or two on the fly, pun. There are many strengths and weaknesses to look for. Not knowing can cost a bundle... no guesses. The art is in the buy, and can be a real fun part of the journey. I see folks try to buy the best price deal possible and while that may work for some, it turns into alligator tears for others. And a huge consideration might be, buy from someone who can afford to own an airplane... stay away from those guys that buy a ship, park it outside and wear everything down to a nub. Look for the best cream puff your budget will allow. Right now you don’t know much, most here have been in your shoes... well, not your shoes, but shoes like yours, me included. Enjoy the Chinese arithmetic.
  40. 1 point
    Will try what BigD posted, a quick call PF got gesttiment and WOW $1800/2500. Will MS updated.
  41. 1 point
    It's a 1984 (built in 1983). S/N 1425 I believe. I have a pic somewhere, just not with me at the moment.
  42. 1 point
    Looking for cracks visually can be fun but the real way is to connect a shop vacuum in blowing mode to the tail pipe using a cut up inner tube and clamps to seal the connection and spray light soapy water on the muffler (after removing the heat shield or moving it around enough to see all sides) and on the ends also. Shows up leaks not visible just looking with the naked eye! If you actually have to remove the muffler for some reason it really only takes about a half an hour to get it off and an hour to put it back on if the lower cowl is already off. . Always good to use new NO BLOW gaskets and new nuts on the two studs holding it on. I doubt that the ball joint hardware has ever been changed so it might be a good idea to order new springs and bolts and nuts and do it right. The springs collapse after 50 years and need to be renewed.
  43. 1 point
    UPDATE- Allen at Hartzell technologies walked me through a very simple procedure. Disconnect the F1 lead and then turn on master switch and alternator switch. The wire should have buss voltage and the terminal should also, if not then the alternator is no good. Also the F1 and F2 terminals when tested for resistance there should be a small amount. If zero or infinity then again a problem with brushes. All alternator problems. Will replace and update you this weekend.
  44. 1 point
    There are a gazillion Mooneys out there. Virtually all of them are for sale .... at the right price. So? How about listing all the things that you want in a Mooney and how much you're willing to pay? It also helps if we know where you fly out of and what your experience is... Give a little info, get a little info!
  45. 1 point
    FWF claims up to 25hp increase with their 10.1 cr pistons stc. Volumetric Cylinder match when new cylinders are used as in my case. I don’t have any provable science to back up my explanation... and my only previous experience with the a3b6d was about 400hrs running around with intake valves that were not opening all the way. I bought this ship with a new cylinder recently installed... I suspect the previous owners got a look at the cam while the cylinder was removed and hung a for sale sign on it. Oh, they conveniently forgot to disclose... And at the time, I had not yet become wise to cams. Whatever, I’m pleased with the cruise and climb numbers... also added a power flow exhaust to diminish the hp loss of a stock muffler. She’s a grin maker now! Just received Blackstone oil analysis at 155hrs smoh and they say everything looks great and engine is healthy. Was asked a week ago to deliver a pilot back to his home town 130nm away and while he was drooling about several things, among others, he mentioned how smooth the engine ran. FWF rocks!
  46. 1 point
    Hey guys, here’s my plan C. All components purchased and ready for install. Just wanted to get some feedback before I send the panel file for laser cutting. Note I have 77J so radio stack height with depth is issue. That’s why they are shown lower down. You’ll note my work around to the asi, alt and vsi maintained in dash per G5 stc but if that changes down the road they can be easily removed. dual G5’s stec 30 with gad29b gad13 gnc355 pma450B kx155 gs kt-76( no Ads-b mandate in Canada yet) dual cgr30p/c with cies floats Guardian iPad mini mount running foreflight which will push flight plans to gnc-355 I have thought really hard about what I need to fly ifr and this setup is affordable, realistic and Practical
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Well waddya know, THAT sounds like a familiar story
  49. 1 point
    Your servo has two circuits. one that runs the motor bidirectionally. The other powers the engagement solenoid. It sounds like your engagement solenoid isn't working. I would suspect wiring and connectors more than your solenoid. It is unlikely to fail. Have your mechanic disconnect the connector by the servo and put a meter on the wires from the plane. Two of the wires should go to battery voltage when the autopilot is engaged. The other two should go from about -10 to +10 volts depending on where the roll knob is set.
  50. 1 point
    Alex, Ill show you a nice scar on my head at the Summit where it was stapled back together. Did I mention I was wearing a shoulder belt? Without it, I wont be here typing. Hopefully, you will realize the few $ spent on shoulder belts are a far better addition to your plane than some new headset or other gizmo. Personally, I wont fly in any aircraft that doesnt have them.

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