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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/11/2018 in all areas

  1. We just finished this panel yesterday. Turned out Great!
    6 points
  2. Can we get @carusoam elevated to administrator? Lifetime achievement or something?
    3 points
  3. Back to the topic I side tracked. Here’s the profile side view. Might be difficult to really gauge the difference, but it is a fair amount more sloped as the carb airbox hits the lower cowl preventing me from fitting it completely right now. David
    3 points
  4. PT20J, Everyone giving you numbers about the time it takes to change the oil, generally have been talking about theoretical or maybe ideal conditions. Her is a real account. (I am not making this up). I arrived at the hangar a little after 11:00 this morning to change the oil. Taking the cowl off, I found that someone had put additional washers on the lower two camlocks on the lower cowl, to help with wallowed out camlock holes. One of them made the camlock so tight, it would not come loose. After trying three screwdrivers, I had to use a Dremel tool abrasive wheel to cut the washer before it would come off. Then I put the hose on the quick drain and attempted to push it up and latch it "open". No luck; no oil cam out. I cut its safety wire and discovered my open end/box end wrench set skips from 3/4 inch to 7/8ths inch, and the quick drain is 13/16ths. Trip to Lowes to get a 13/16ths wrench. Removed the quick drain, draining the oil into a plastic pan. (I usually drain directly into empty milk jugs). I cleaned out the quick drain and it was open. Cleaned it up, replaced it and re-safety wired it. I still have no idea why it would not drain. Attempted to remove the oil filter, finding someone had used gorilla strength torque installing it. Too tight to remove with the usual box end wrench. Hooked up a 1 inch socket with a long break-over bar and a 2 inch extension, since the cowl flap linkage prevents reaching it without the extension. Loosened the filter and while putting the plastic zip lock bag around the filter to keep it from leaking too much oil, a friend showed up in front of my hangar to chat. I didn't time our chat, but it was probably 45 minutes or so. It was actually kind of nice, as it gave the oil time to run down into the zip lock bag, and created less of a mess. Uneventfully installed and re-safety wired the new filter. Poured in the fresh oil and set out the empty oil containers to drain, since I don't like waiting for the length of time it takes to completely drain the quart containers, and I'm too much of a CB to toss them with a tablespoonful or so of oil remaining in each one. Emptied the plastic drain pan into my container to take to the oil disposal place, and set the filter to drain. I will go back tomorrow to cut the filter and replace the cowling. I left the hangar at 2:45. Re-cowling, filter cutting, inspecting, oil disposal and logbook entry, yet to go.
    2 points
  5. Thanks for the responses so far.... Here is some additional data: My mechanic discovered the cracked transition piece at annual 3 months ago. He replaced it with a new ACORN brand piece. I do fly with a CO detector. I only noticed the very rare and brief alert of CO during a slow flight type of maneuver. I always fly LOP and keep TIT less than 1600F. I always let the turbos cool down during my 5 min taxi back to the hangar. My mechanic discussed the issue with ACORN today. Everyone's thoughts are the slip joints may not be slipping due to the mix of new/old parts and/or Continental/Acorn parts. So the latest plan is to replace all the parts to the exhaust system on that side of the engine so new is matched with new and brand is matched with brand. Don Maxwell chimed in on facebook recommending checking all the slip joints for proper operation which we have done and will do again. He also recommended loosening the whole system and then retightening while tapping parts to minimize metallurgical stresses. All good ideas. I think TCM recommends this as well. My mechanic indicates TCM/ACORN have a life expectancy of 700 hours on the transition piece as it endures a lot of heat and pressure. My engine TT is 1800 hrs and top overhaul 800 hrs ago which may or may not have included the exhaust parts. Either way, it appears I am well past 700 hours. As for the new transition which cracked at only around 40-50 hours.....I don't know for sure.... I don't have photos currently but have requested them because they will be educational for all of us.
    2 points
  6. I need to do some data clean up, but here is the alpha version of the google map. https://drive.google.com/open?id=12dwNoTTjZ2MeJEpHApxktguTtlaFYuwa&usp=sharing
    2 points
  7. Aspen’s new product called the Max addresses this. All of us who have the first generation Aspen also have a mechanical or electrical backups. The Aspen uses airspeed data (like all AHRS units) in part to determine the pitch representation. A backup unit like the ESI-500, are certified to operate in a degraded mode without the airspeed input. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    2 points
  8. Could they be mis-rigged such that there is a bending load being introduced when everything is tightened up? Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
    2 points
  9. I take a somewhat opposite view: If the manufacturer recommends changing the oil at 50 hours, it means you can easily go 100 hours without ill effects. I therefore go with 50 and will not worry if I go 55 hours before doing the oil change.
    2 points
  10. Had a chance to begin part trois with some guidance from the local A&P. Hopefully this thread will help those who may be headed down the same path. The AP suggested we pull the master cylinder for at least the right side since that was the first symptom. He was also perplexed about the hydraulic lock we encountered. He was concerned about the problem being common to both sides. He recommended we pull and inspect the parking brake. His suspicions were well founded. When we rebuilt the right master we found the one of the O rings in rough shape. This picture shows the same O ring from the left and right master cylinders. Here is a picture of the inner mechanism for one of the Cleveland 10-49 master cylinders I have. I also had a squawk of the right pedal not snapping back as crisply as the left side. We found that one of the attachment pins was installed backwards and it would periodically catch the rudder shaft. We also noted the play in the cylinders that Paul saw in the pictures from the earlier threads and will correct that with a washer on the sides. The parking brake was removed and we found that the earlier work we did to rebuild it wasn’t done correctly. We managed to shave one of the O rings when we reassembled the shaft. You can see in this picture the differences in the two O rings that should be identical. The bad news is we ran out of the correct O ring for the parking brake and I needed to order new ones. I did purchase a new pressure pot. Hopefully this one will work better than all the gizmos we tried in our earlier attempts. Anyone who has experience using this model, please let me know if there is anything unique to the usage. It looks like the bleed valve attachment is a metal to metal connection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  11. Understood, she already told me that "xfoil doesn’t account for vortices, wing-body join, interface between the two airfoils, etc. so there are probably a lot of things contributing to the differences". I think she gets it.
    1 point
  12. The auto pilot wasn't working, so it got removed. Now waiting and hoping for the TruTrak or GFC500 to become available.
    1 point
  13. Charles, See our friends at... @Alan Fox and @acpartswhse To see if they have the matching parts for the sim project... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  14. I guess it would be seen as unseemly to mention fuel injection?
    1 point
  15. Hurry up and fix your brakes already! You've about exceeded my French . . . .
    1 point
  16. Depends on the examiner if they like to be "snowed" or not. If you want to go down a rabbit hole, be prepared to fully explain their use, how to interpret, etc. Alex, might I suggest you stick to answering questions asked for the best results on the oral. The DE has a plan of work he/she will follow and that will cover the bases of weather briefing for your planned flight. They will be able to tell if you know what you are talking about or not without the need to acquire "points".
    1 point
  17. Anthony, do you take a vitamin for "positive-thinking" daily?
    1 point
  18. My service manual says I should change the oil every 50 hours. Does that mean that I should NOT change the oil at 35 hours. What about 49 or 51 hours. My Mooney Service Manual also says to remove and clean the oil pump suction screen at each change. I wonder how many owners follow this advice. My point is that someone who changes the oil filter at 50 hours but also chooses to change oil at say 25 hours (without a new filter) isn't necessarily out of compliance relative to the Mooney Service Manual.
    1 point
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