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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/10/2018 in all areas

  1. I commuted back and forth form Phoenix to Tucson for over 20 years with my Mooneys. For most of that time I just had see and avoid. My normal commute was very relaxing, way less stress than driving. It was rare that I would ever see another airplane. I don't commute anymore, but I am doing work for a giant defense contractor in Tucson and make quite a few trips down there these days. Now I have an IPad with a Stratus and an Avidyne with traffic. It is nerve wracking flying down there! There are a zillion planes in the sky all trying to get me! I long for the old days when I could relax and look out the window and see an airplane now and then...
    5 points
  2. To answer my own question, ended up going to Kurt at Expert Aircraft (F70) since they had lots of experience installing the Gee-Bee kits. I have noting but good things to say about Kurt and the kit. Installation was fast, great guys (I ended up spending the whole day hanging out at the airport) and on my flight home my CHTs were easily 20 deg cooler. With the amount of gas I’m going to save not having to go extra rich with the crappy baffles this will pay for itself quickly!
    3 points
  3. Another see and avoid story.... About a year ago I was riding along on a training flight in a Cherokee 6 en route to a Mooney Rocket I needed to ferry back to Tucson. I was in the way back. The stratus situation was AFU and not everybody was properly connected. We were flying along and I saw traffic on my IPad at 12 O'clock and about 1 mile. I kept telling the folks in the front seat about the traffic, they kept looking down at their IPads and kept saying that they didn't see the traffic! I started yelling with very colorful language that they needed to look out the window! They never did and kept saying that they didn't see the traffic and never looked up. I saw the Cessna pass 50 feet off our right wing. I have had nightmares about that incident. It makes you feel very helpless when you can't get to the controls.
    3 points
  4. Looking at flight tracking my old gal has found a new place to nest in Denver, Colorado. Wednesday 07-Nov-2018 04:40PM CST Joe Foss Field - FSD 07:03PM MST Rocky Mtn Metropolitan - BJC M20P
    3 points
  5. Car, This is my first turbo so no I am not very experienced with them. Have read a lot about it and actually ran LOP for the first time ever from Las Vegas to Central Oregon a few days ago. Was down as low as I could be due to strong headwinds. Flew back at 10,500 and 20 degrees LOP. Running at 29 & 23 I saw FF at 12.8 which seems amazingly low. TIT was just over 1600 and CHT hightest was 385.
    2 points
  6. Glad to hear you're back up 'n running:) My first annual is coming up the end of this month....palms are getting sweaty!
    2 points
  7. I'm guessing you could achieve the same ridges with a vinyl wrap - why not try a wrap in similar configuration on a friends plane. Do some pre and post speed tests. Should be an easy theory to prove/disprove. I wouldn't touch the paint until I proved it was causing the issue - my 2 cents - best of luck.
    2 points
  8. Scary. I’m buying sensorcon right now. Thanks for sharing.
    2 points
  9. There is a recurrent AD on the Wing. The Rear fuel tank needs to come out, flap gap seals off, Wing root fairings off. Technically you are suppose to remove flaps and ailerons. It's not hard. Just takes time. My opinion is a metal wing Mooney is more expensive to maintain. Especially if you have corrosion on spar or a fuel tank leak. M20A has aluminum tanks and wood is easy to repair as long as you don't have rot. Find someone that know fabric airplane to inspect the plane. Things to look for- Grab the Flap brackets, if any movement then you should probably pass on the plane. Any give on the wing walk could also be a issue. Good luck and hopefully it's a gem. I bought mine for 12K a few years ago and couldn't be happier.
    2 points
  10. I think we waste way too much time worrying about this. The number of midair collisions in the US each year can be counted on the fingers of one hand. You're far more likely to run out of gas, yet how many of us have working fuel gauges?
    2 points
  11. I'm probably going to start a fire storm here but it could also prove to be an interesting discussion. In my opinion, just pure see and avoid does not work. If we are not listening to the radio, just looking for traffic, in my opinion we probably see less than 25% of the traffic that comes within 2 miles of us. It's probably closer to 10%. The reason we think it works is because of something else, the big sky theory. That being that the sky is big and our planes are small. The chances of two planes being in the same place at the same time is remote. Although with the accuracy of GPS and newer autopilots, if we operate along airways this may no longer be the case. On the other hand; hear, see, and avoid works pretty well. For example, in the traffic pattern if we pay attention to the radio chatter and all the traffic is giving accurate position information, we do a pretty good job of spotting each other. I'd guess something around 75% or maybe even a bit more. Another example would be if we are enroute and talking to ATC either because we are IFR or getting flight following. ATC doesn't always point out all the traffic, and we don't always spot everybody they call out, but we see a lot more than if they didn't call them out at all. And finally; ADS-B, see, and avoid works pretty well too. If we know where to look we do pretty well. If we have no idea where to look we don't. Be safe out there.
    1 point
  12. Here is the way I have done mine in the past Remove the filler plug on the reservoir on the firewall and screw in a barb fitting for ¼” hose, fold the vent line on top the reservoir over and zip tie together (pinch it off), attach a 48” length of clear hose to the barb and run the other end of the hose into catch can, let it hang off to the side of the aircraft and sit the catch can on the ground. Get a hose fitting to go one the “T” at the flap cylinder (see photo, only the black pieces will be used). Attach a hose from the pressure pot to the tapered hose fitting, force fluid through the system from the bottom, you can see the fluid coming out of the reservoir through the clear hose while under plane, when all the air bubbles are gone from the clear hose from the reservoir you are ready to seal the system back up, have the cap ready to be installed as soon as the hose fitting is removed from the “T”. Allow the fluid to drain from the clear hose and then pump the flaps down, while there is pressure on the system loosen the nut on the “T” and allow any air to bleed out, this also lowers the fluid level in the reservoir so the barbed fitting can be removed, recheck the fluid level and go fly
    1 point
  13. Pre-load the pump portion of the hydraulic unit to prime it before installation in the aircraft. Otherwise, it takes forever to get it pumping. Bleeding it by the book doesn't prime the pump, it only gets air out of the flap actuator. Once you get it pumping, you'll find it takes more pumps than usual to lower the flaps. That eventually decreases after cycling the system 15-20 times. Over the course of the next few months, it will slowly allow air bubbles out so eventually it will take the normal 4 1/2 pumps. Good luck, let us know how it works out.
    1 point
  14. Also, you might find this useful as far as power and MAP settings are concerned. TLS Bravo Percentage of Power... Redux. (UPDATED 11/2016) https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=55491&share_tid=18699&url=https://www.mooneyspace.com/index.php?/topic/18699-TLS-Bravo-Percentage-of-Power%2E%2E%2E-Redux%2E-%28UPDATED-11-2016%29&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  15. Several times I’ve stayed a week at a wintry airport & asked the FBO to pull my plane into a heated hangar starting the day before I leave.
    1 point
  16. Just be careful that your insurance likely specifies the pilot flying must meet the insurance requirements (including US ratings). Insurance doesn’t care about pic. -Robert
    1 point
  17. Sorry couldn’t help you out Fred. The later model F senders are a lot of different than your C model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  18. That is the end of the oil gallery that supplies the lifters.
    1 point
  19. Good luck running LOP on the Bravo, however, if you should do it, here is the spreadsheet showing power at various fuel flows. LOPFFvsHP.xls
    1 point
  20. You are correct, and this is a common problem with humans. We worry about things that we perceive to be problems and ignore things that are actual problems. Read The Science of Fear by Daniel Gardner... He starts with an example that we can all relate to... The rise in highway deaths because of the irrational fear of flying directly following 9/11. It's a very interesting read.
    1 point
  21. I can’t believe I liked this post! I probably need to build a bigger, heated, dog house...
    1 point
  22. If it makes you feel any better, I transitioned from a Cherokee 140. Definitely no floating there And an unsolicited suggestion--lose wife. From the plane, I mean, not otherwise. Don't hesitate to swap her for a CFI. You're still getting transitioning, and the last thing you need is the extra pressure and distraction.
    1 point
  23. Amillet, I will let you know how it goes...Aircraft will be listed this coming week (not by me), photo day this weekend...It has only taken 6mos to get here...and for me to emerge back into Mooney space, I was glad to see it is as viberant as ever!
    1 point
  24. That's crazy amount of local oscillator noise that the Stratus is putting out. I guess they know what happened to MH370 now. For the GPS on the Stratux I have a USB Ublox on 3 foot usb extension cable that hangs over the rear seat with the Stratux on the rear hat rack. No GPS interference. I could see where a Raspberry PI could generate enough stray RF to mess with a GPS signal, but not so far.
    1 point
  25. Having just written a check for full tank reseal, my inner CB is in a rage. No way I'm paying for new senders right now. I think Marauder is going to come to my rescue and make my inner CB smile a mile wide.
    1 point
  26. Go practice slow flight at 80 clean at altitude. Its easy once you get the idea of pulling the power back to where it should be. Practice turns at no more than a 20 degree bank at that speed staying at a set altitude. It also easy once you get comfortable. Then do the same with gear and approach flaps. Then do descents at 500 fpm at the same speed. Get comfortable with the speed and how it feels. You just need more practice that's all. You'll do fine with more practice. To slow down- pull the power off. It works the same way in a Boeing or a Mooney.
    1 point
  27. The "0" now I feel stupid. I've just recently only learned to count to "J"... I've flown a 180 Cherokee for the last 12 years. I've never had to worry about floating, and the sight picture is quite a bit different. I love this plane.
    1 point
  28. My partners and I had carb ice THREE times THIS YEAR! Once at cruise (WOT), once on departure (WOT), and once on approach in IMC (without carb heat applied). We have changed a few things: 1) Always use carb heat on approach or in the pattern 2) Always leave carb heat on for more than a few seconds at run up. 3) If holding for release either use card heat or check it again. 4) Make sure you lean when carb heat is on to ensure smooth running engine and no fouling of the plugs 5) We overhauled the carb, since it was way overdue and might be contrbuting to the problem. 6) We added a carb temp gauge so we know what is really happening. (and we'll adjust the items above as needed based on the carb temp) 7) Just because the carb temp is in the "ice zone" doesn't mean that it will ice...there must be moisture...so we'll be learning because we don't want to have carb heat on all the time.
    1 point
  29. If things drift... it is an artifact of the turbo bootstrapping. Are you familiar with turbo ops in general? Related to how to avoid MP overshoots. The Bravo engine is pretty well refined in terms of upper deck pressure control... The only thing the Bravo didn’t get was nicely balanced air intake tubes... LOP is possible with the Bravo. Often, people describe smooth operation of the Bravo engine, LOP, occurs at a power setting too low to make desirable... Bravo lovers often prefer fast flight over efficient flight... Do as much reading on the subject as you can. there isn’t much written on the topic compared to other Mooneys... For comparison see pictures of Continental twin turbos and curvy intakes to go along with the pair of inter coolers... watching TIT and CHTs are important skills. Air cooling in the thin air can be challenging under high power settings... Getting good Transition Training from a Bravo owner probably saves a few AMUs... want a recommendation? Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  30. Living in this icebox called the PNW, I flew the plane down to the avionics shop yesterday, absolute perfect atmospheric conditions for carb icing, high humidity and cold. Really noticed it in cruise and descent. I have, never used my carb heat so much, albeit not my first rodeo, it was educational to have a flight where managing carb ice was key, and the reminder of how to best manage the plane with it as a constant, increased the workload but, not horribly. I also had my IA put the carb temp :-) sensor in with the JPI install, fantastic investment.
    1 point
  31. I bet that is a good feeling to get back into the air. On the positive side the plane probably flys much better because you don't have to carry all that cash around.
    1 point
  32. BTW, You don't need the muffler overhauled. Any A&P is legal to weld it. I would find an an aviation welder and just have him fix the crack. As an A&P I would just find a good TIG welder and supervise him doing it. Shouldn't be more than $100 or so, or a few beers if you know them well enough...
    1 point
  33. And I bet ca$h money every pilot who ever ran out of gas said the same damn thing. Yet pilots run out of gas all the time, its one of the leading causes of crashes. I had working fuel gauges in my last airplane, and I can tell you than when they start headed or empty it gets your attention. I promise you working fuel gauges would reduce the number of accidents due to fuel exhaustion. But instead we worry about midairs, which almost never happen.
    1 point
  34. damn always a hair short. I would take the sidewider in tx if cdnflyby cant
    1 point
  35. So Alex @Raptor05121, You apparently have chrome cylinders, 1-3. Contact Blackstone and let them know so your reports will be compared to the rest of the nickle cylinder engines in their database.
    1 point
  36. My E is was a bear to start hot... or after just sitting the Texas summer sun all day... until i found and use the Dave Mcgee Hots Starts M20e... process.. google it... I always set throttle to 1000 rpm now on shut down.....
    1 point
  37. Dust boots,tailwheel boots,Gate control rod boot,shock strut boot,control column boot...steering linkage boot,dust boot for retract rod ..
    1 point
  38. I use Micro-Mesh regularly. Some thoughts: a) Removal of scratches requires significant sanding down of the plastic surface to a depth below all scratches. b) Sanding needs to be done in an organized manner, over a wide area. Optical clarity requires a uniform surface, without low spots. c) The finer grit papers need to be used far more than it at first seems, as you need to remove all the micro scratches you just put there with the previous sanding. d) Use a lot of water as you sand. e) I use a BluePoint 3 inch buffer (snap-on) with wool pad and "Flitz" (the metal polish) as a final finish. Done with skill, it results in world class clarity. Done without care and burns result. This heli is 17 years old and I've been able to keep the windscreens perfect, including sanding down through the minor crazing and polishing. No imperfections.
    1 point
  39. You’re hot start procedure is actually a flooded start. Hot start you leaving throttle where it was.
    1 point
  40. I've seen threads going down hill but this one has gone down a rat hole!
    1 point
  41. FWIW, they are delicious! A delicacy in Peru. Had to try it while I was there last week. Served with potatoes and a mushroom salad. They call them Cuy.
    1 point
  42. Or is this what you are looking for:
    1 point
  43. I found another source other than Laser: https://ratsmakemehappy.com/products/rat-socks
    1 point
  44. Rat socks are so small and I always end up with 3 after washing them. I never can find the last one.
    1 point
  45. This discussion and the PTSD from getting a new trim tube from the factory inspired me to look at mine today (it’s in annual anyway). Is the only wear place where it goes through a bulkhead just aft of the battery/avionics bay door? Mine seems to have black blocks installed on the bulkhead that support the trim tube just above the bulkhead instead of it setting on the bulkhead. My IA said “sacrificial material”. It still has black lines on it from rubbing against this material but is not “cut” into like the op pictures. Is that just how they wear? Wear on sacrafial blocks until those wear down and then wear on the bulkhead if you don’t catch it?
    1 point
  46. As much as I’m disapointed with the situation with SkyBeacon, I can’t see any way that Garmin is responsible for the situation. You can’t blame a company for protecting their IP. SkyBeacon is the one that wouldn’t lift a finger to explaine how they weren’t infringing. After reading all the documents It looks to me like they are infringing.
    1 point
  47. Is the buyer an MSer? A really fancy E like this makes a great retirement plane.... Just ask Bob or Nancy... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  48. waving my hand here. I am interested in the plane.
    1 point
  49. To land a Mooney well, don't beat your Mooney up. Get a few hours in a taildragger.
    1 point
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