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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/02/2018 in all areas

  1. We all start in the same place my friend. I can assure you my 65C didn’t get an AP. It wouldn't have gotten one for 5AMU either. Are you insulted by the S-Tec price? I used to get angry by that kind of pricing strategy, and presentation. After you have seen a few presentations that aren't targeted towards you, they get easier to ignore. 25amu upgrades for planes aren’t going to be picked up by many people. Garmin gave(?) us an example of this type of expensive upgrade to add WAAS to the G1000 nav system. Voice your disinterest, but realize some MSers may actually be interested in this system, especially if they have most of the parts already. No need to take out your frustration on me. I’m generally here to help other people out... Best regards, -a-
    6 points
  2. I was replacing the tube on the nose dragger and the IA started asking questions about certification and standards and work procedures. I mean after all it does drag around a certified plane and all that. we negotiated down to if I was going to get an annual done in Feb, I would have to do the work. Annual #3 Nothing major to do this time.
    3 points
  3. Definitely lack of an autopilot should not dissuade you from getting an instrument rating. Perhaps one of the biggest obstacles for new instrument students is simply getting the aircraft properly trimmed quickly so they can move onto the next task. Its the first obstacle keeping students behind the aircraft, with lack of understanding and proficiency with their avionics second. Using an autopilot for this would do the student a huge disservice since it would merely make them dependent on the AP rather than learn to quickly trim the aircraft on their own. We already have too many pilots that are overly dependent on their AP's that have gotten into the habit of using them from cruise on through the approach. As your training progresses you'll learn to stay ahead of the aircraft with a much higher workload that what you'll actually experience in a typical cross country IFR trip due to the artificial nature of the training environment . Although the more challenging the weather conditions the more difficult the workload can be; especially with turbulence or strong winds added in. But this is why we have personal minimums. But where autopilots become most important in on longer and longer flight so that the pilot isn't exhausted by the time they arrive at the terminal environment for an approach which will require their full concentration. Its also important in allowing us to monitor weather ahead on long cross country's and enable us to develop diversion plans for enroute weather or our destination . But after you get your IR, you'll be in a better position to set personal minimums based not only on your skills, but also your experience level and your equipment limitations. But certainly as you desire to fly longer trips with weather, an autopilot or another pilot right seat or even a capable right seat pax become more and more vital to keeping the workload manageable.
    3 points
  4. All this work was done under the supervision of an IA. The described issue. About every 5th or 10th the breaker would blow on the gear down. Never a big issue, just put the breaker back in and it would continue on it’s way to down and locked. Nothing in the log book about servicing gear. It is an ITT actuator. First step was to replace breaker since they get old and wear out. That was done and found another breaker where the wire was loose on it. So yay another potential issue found. Planned for annual to pull the actuator and send it off for servicing and a lube. Called a MSC and they said they would take a look at it. As an FYI it takes a ground off socket to reach one of the nuts and the removal of 2 belly panels. Which was fine since it was annual and it allowed me to clean up all the gunky brake fluid that went there from the leaky master cylinder. master brake cylinder rebuilt with 3 Mil spec O rings. So ship off actuator. Wait a week. Annual is finished but no actuator. Finally start calling. After several weeks find that gears are fine and things are lubed. Find that sometimes there is a brake in the back of the motor that will come unpinned and fall off and short. The reason for the brake is so the gear does not work down while flying. The brake is released by the 4th terminal on the solenoid (sear tractor forum to learn about 4th terminal). MSC and I agree to ship motor off to California to have it gone through. Wait several weeks and start calling MSC to learn status of motor. MSC refers me to the motor repair. Motor repair says my Emergency Disconnect is bad. There seems to be no Emergency disconnects available. I find one in Colorado. Also research if the 12 spline gears can be purchased. Also look into machining said gears. Do you know they can Print titanium parts now. More time goes by. Start weekly calling of MSC. Finally get a “We are shipping it back and there is no charge” I get a box of disassembled components back. Start inspecting the supposed bad gear actuator and find no issues. Trade photos with A&P and he says no issues. So grease everything and reassemble and safety wire. Tell saga to IA. His comment is “sometimes people try and sell you stuff” Reinstall into plane. Do 3-4 Emergency gear extensions. Do 3-4 regular gear ups and downs. Make video to check alignment on everything. IA comes and checks assembly and the overlocks and other things that IAs know how to do. Lessons Learned If you read about the Mooney Electric gear you would think they are flimsy one step away from breaking. That is not the case. The gear actuator is a really well made unit. The Emergency gear disconnect is well designed and will still be there when the airframe is toast. Does not matter how much you try to do things the right way, you will sometimes having to do it yourself Since February there has not been any circuit breaker popping As much as you would like for people to project manage things, sometimes you have to do it yourself If I had not stayed on top of it, I would probably still not be flying It is good to have skills in how mechanical thins work. Dad was right, learning to fix things, will take you far If people are going to outsource things, they should check their vendors to make sure they are doing things to keep everything moving along I will need to have a conversation with the MSC. I believe him to annoyed with me Total time of annual was from End of November to beginning of February. I would love to have access to the factory component supplier list It would be incredibly frustrating to be in most people shoes just relying on others to get your plane back together so you can go flying Not having a plane to fly for 2-3 months is a bummer After two annuals with the IA he is learning to trust me more…. The plane is in a little better shape that is was last year.
    2 points
  5. tire tube would have added context... and the internet removed my wiry sense of humor It's kind of like when I asked him if he wanted to help with the starter replacement.... he laughed and said it would be better if he supervised
    2 points
  6. I'm working towards my IFR too. My old M20E doesn't have an autopilot and in 1963 they didn't even put in the positive control wing leveler so I'm missing that advantage. I'm on a tight budget so I ponder this question quite a bit. Many say it's very foolish to attempt IFR without an autopilot. I think it's possible but you need to be very careful not to put yourself into a situation where the workload overwhelms you. You don't get to take a coffee break but you can tell ATC to wait. I'm pretty sure if you do that much they'll want to have a talk with you. I'm pretty lucky that my son, who I helped get his private, is now enrolled in a B.S. in Aviation program so in a year or so I'll have the perfect secretary. Also he may be able to help me with the cost of strategic upgrades. If we get an autopilot, he'll probably be the one to pick it out.
    2 points
  7. So it has been a year and the gear popping the breaker has not resurfaced
    2 points
  8. Unfortunately this story is all too common. My experience has been that I have to show up every day or at least a couple of times a week and push. By spending enough time, it keeps focus on your plane... and eventually you become the guy who's plane gets attention immediately as soon as it rolls in the shop. It also helps to find a good shop. I've been very happy with SWTA. And they deliver when they say they will. Of course, there is always the possibility that sourcing parts will take unexpected time, but they get the work done. Best of luck, but I'd be hanging out at the shop every day I could until it's done.
    2 points
  9. @McMooney, I think that you will find that this is the wrong site for your x rated vocabulary. Most of the ladies and gentlemen here will welcome your posts if you can show us, and especially newbies here like Barry who bring us a vendor's viewpoint, respect. As suggested above, only you as the poster can delete or edit your objectionable post. Well, the admin could...
    2 points
  10. @McMooney relax and please delete your all caps profanity rant.
    2 points
  11. In my it's always windy in Oregon theme... I headed out to Aurora to Pacific Coast Avionics today to get my IFR Cert done and my Garmin 430W/530W units upgraded to software more recent than 5 years ago. So, Chris and his guys helped me out, even when I got there and handed them an Autopilot Disconnect switch and said "hey, can you install this too". The flight out was a nice boring VFR flight with rain... The flight back I had managed to pick up a 54kt breeze with 43kts on the nose... But at least I was still able to keep the ground speed of a 172. Got a nice ILS into Newport and while I'm glad my King Autopilot works again, I can't wait for the Garmins...
    2 points
  12. Yep speed + efficiency is good. 4:56 - 1,154 miles - 56 of 76 gal used.
    2 points
  13. After lots of comparing, we have decided to install the JPI EDM-900. After installing TSO'd Volt/Ammeter, will be able to eliminate cluster gauge, yielding space for Accutrak II if one is available. Space above the cluster gauge will allow mount of IPad. Thanks to everyone who provided input and advice. Much appreciated. Three week delivery to finish replacing pilot's side panel with six pack.
    2 points
  14. Keep in mind the King Schools videos and the like are concentrated directly on questions on the exam. If after a practice exam you find your understanding of a specific area is lacking what you do next may be depend heavily on what kind of learner you are or what works most effectively for you. In addition to reviewing the video on that topic again, many of us would be better served by reading about the topic in detail as covered by the excellent free FAA bibles for the IR. These are the Instrument Procedures Handbook (IPH) and the Instrument Flying Handbook (IFH). These and all FAA handbooks are available for free download at https://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aviation/ So I would encourage you to review any area you might need further understanding in the appropriate section of the either of these two handbooks. They should fill the any gaps. However, I am of the opinion every instrument pilot should have a hardcopy of these two vital handbooks. When I learned to fly and get my instrument rating the FAA didn't have anything like these and you had to find an independent author to get this stuff. But now days the FAA has commissioned these very excellent handbooks that cover everything you need.
    2 points
  15. So, as it apparently happens frequently my King AP disconnect switch went out on my KAP 150. This is not asking for help, it's been replaced, but I wanted to provide the part number that might have been used for the replacement and what the old one looked like. If I were to have ordered the replacement part from Mouser.com it would have been part number 633-MB2061SS1W01CC and it would have looked like the below(new switch on the left). (check the cap size before ordering, there is a large cap -CC and a small cap -BC, some other sites have reported the small cap, in reality it doesn't matter as you can reuse the cap) But the most telling thing is what the old one looked like when disassembled. Notice the contact for the trim power side of the switch is basically totally gone as they run way too much power through it and using it to disconnect causes an arc. So, I've now learned(about $300 too late) to never use the Yoke disconnect switch except in an emergency and just disconnect from the autopilot front panel or by engaging the manual electric trim which might also be safe for the switches, although that unit is even more expensive to replace or rebuild. Edit: and one other thing I learned is that it's a fully sealed switch, so spraying it with contact cleaner probably won't hurt to try and make it work again, but if it still doesn't work the problem still may be the switch as there's a good chance none of the cleaner actually got inside.
    1 point
  16. Back in the fall, a thread was started about an MT Propellers. Back then I had one on order for my Bravo. I promised I would give a pirep when I got it installed. I ordered the prop right after OSH and it arrived about Christmas. I needed to help a friend in Titusville so I decided to stop in Deland and have them install and balance the prop. Long story about install but I will save that for another day. Since the install I have been to KTIX, M54 (Nashville) and back to Denver and done some local flying. My impressions so far are The prop (a four blade) is extremely smooth. One reason I wanted to do this is that after 3.5 hours behind the Mc Cauley I needed to get on the ground for a spell. The vibration was fatiguing and I often do long trips and I need 4-4.5 hour legs. On the way home from Florida I did 4+ hour legs without difficulty. The four blade MT is about 2" shorter than the McCauley. It makes the cabin much quieter. In fact I am very comfortable flying without a headset. Since I like background music I still wear the headset a lot. I found takeoff runs shorter and the climb rate better. I also found I need to keep the taxi RPM down to 800 or lower or get going to fast. Landing is different, I think due to blade drag and the lighter prop. The airplane seems to float less and decelerates faster which I rate as a positive factor. I find I can hold the nose up longer as the tail has less weight to lift. I have not put this to the ultimate test as yet. The test will be a full load of fuel and two fat boys in the front seats. The Bravo now handles much more like a K model. The ride in turbulence is a little less desirable than it used to be. With the heavy prop. the Bravo would really plow through the bumps. It now bounces a bit more. Cruise speed I am still working on. I normally use 28/2300 and a fuel flow of 15.5. When the MT was set to that power I got the same indicated airspeed at lower altitudes (under 10K). Since the prop is shorter I tried 29/2400 and found that the fuel flow was higher and the plane was a little faster and the gas mileage only decreased 3%. I also tried 32/2200, fuel flow about 17.5gph. The result was a good 5% higher indicated over the McCauley and the gas mileage was about the same or a little better. The percent power however is 81%. When the weather gets warmer I will get an idea if the engine cooling is improved. I think it might be. Well that is about as much as I have observed so far. I see improvement in all the areas that I deemed important when I ordered the prop. Not large improvements but certainly worthwhile improvements. The only potential problem is that to pour enough TKS fluid over the prop blades they increased the flow which seems to cheat the flow to the wings. I only flew in a little ice so I need to evaluate this a little more. One other thing I have found more difficult is trying to install the lower cowling. A few more practice sessions may improve my skill at this.
    1 point
  17. I'm just randomly thinking. Would it be feasible to make a portable AOA device by attaching a sensor to your side window? If you take a small windvane with a metal base, you could attach it to your side window with a rare-earth magnet on the inside (both protected by rubber, of course). The windvane has a electronic position sensor and bluetooth transmitter, with the receiver being a display that you would velcro to the top of your glareshield. Since it is not permanently attached to the plane, it requires no installation. It might need calibration, or you could have the receiver use the position during the ground roll as your zero degree calibration automatically. Heck, if you wanted to go really low tech, you could just have a mirror on the glareshield pointing at the windvane on the side window. Anyway, just my brain droppings for today...
    1 point
  18. Well Let me go to the opposite side and say Thanks Barry! Just got off the phone with Barry who has extensive avionics experience but new to the Mooney crowd. I had contacted Stec to discuss what would be required to update a Stec 30 to either an Stec55X which I have or bettter yet. 3100.unfortunately the 3100 will require the same 15 participants as the M20R. This is due to certification costs. This is a TSO’d and STC’d product carries significant costs for each airframe. Barry spent quite a bit of time with me t explain the why and wherefore of the process. Let’s give him a break and the respect each of us deserves. He is simply trying to do his best for us as well as his employer. BTW any Eagle owners that want this autopilot let me know and I will help coordinate.
    1 point
  19. You do what you want. My family will never get in your airplane beicause it’s not maintained to airworthy standards. . I’m advising people to follow the service manual lubrication requirements. An MD80 crashed and killed everyone because they used the wrong grease on a trim jackscrew. WD-40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT.
    1 point
  20. Rust isn’t the problem in the trim jack screw. Old knarly grease is the problem with binding.
    1 point
  21. I did not enter any. Literally, the only entries I put in after giving it your N-number were empty weight and CG I made up. FF used the N-number to get the serial number for the plane and then referenced the TCDS for that serial number and used the data it contained to fill in the fore and aft limits. Do you have a current weight and balance for your plane? (I know you do, as you must have one to legally fly.) If so, please take a photo and post it. I promise, if you do the exact same steps I posted here using your empty weight and CG where I put 1650 and 47.3, it will generate your envelope just like the one I posted. If you want, you can PM me a phone number and I will walk you through it.
    1 point
  22. Yep carusoam, that is what was messing me up! I will report back when finished.
    1 point
  23. No, I just use the same insulated glove I use when I am in Phoenix or Tucson in August and the rental car company gives me a black car they got in from California.
    1 point
  24. Or just learn to fly as apposed to trying to program the plane. :-) I would think a AoA would be pretty easy to build. I just built a home alarm system using a PIR and Raspberry PI Zero with camera. It is going to flash lights via the Wemo and play audio clips via the HDMI. Next up is a ground sensor like they have on big planes that calls out "150 feet", 100 feet, 50 feet, 25 feet, just like the big planes. Going to velcro it inside the front wheel weel
    1 point
  25. Taking bets...? Battery charge level... remember Batteryminders are best when they match the brand and type of battery... Battery failure.... Concorde vs. Gill Starter Solenoid... responsible for delivering the amps required to move the prop... they can age and not deliver the amps... Starter motor... OEM starters haven’t had a lot of complaints. There have been a few... Starter adapter... a friction clutch device that may have difficulty with some oil additives... (George outlined this one) Ignition switch... sends power to a Solenoid... Battery terminal and all the electrical connections up to the starter....oxidation can inhibit electron flow. got any white salty looking build-up on the battery terminals or rich green looking surfaces on connections? Quick question... What happens to the voltage reading when the starter is engaged? Funny thing... I can’t push the button to read volts when starting my plane. Quirky old Mooney challenge. Volt and amp meter is the same device. To read volts the pilot has to push and hold the button.... I have only two hands... Sounds to me... Batteries are charged some electricity is getting to the starter but not enough to develop the proper torque to push the prop through the compression stroke... if this is the case, the Solenoid and all connections are suspect, or the starter is weak...? Be extra careful being anywhere near the prop.. PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  26. I've always ensured I got at least one question wrong - I don't believe in perfection. So my scores on my 6 knowledge tests ranged from 85 to 98.
    1 point
  27. Here are the steps I took to create your "fake" W&B in my Foreflight. In "More", select Weight & Balance and tap "+". Enter your N-number in the field and tap "Next" In the next screen, enter your empty weight and CG from your current weight & balance. Moment will be calculated for you. (I made up these numbers) Tap "Next". Screen showing where ForeFlight got the figures it uses. Tap "Save". Screen showing your W&B Profiles. Tap on your plane. Your empty weight & balance screen shows up. Note the tab at the bottom of the screen is "Setup". To calculate a W&B for a flight, Tap the "Load" tab and fill in the fields on the left side of the screen by tapping each applicable one. Again, the figures I entered in the second screen were ones I made up. Use the figures you should have for your current empty W&B and it should give you the same graph with the only difference being where the icons within the envelope are located. Once you complete this setup, it never needs to be changed UNLESS you perform work on your plane which results in a new W&B being issued by the shop doing the work.
    1 point
  28. Just take pictures with your phone.
    1 point
  29. Is the mechanic or avionics shop holding the process up? No reason why the mechanic can finish 95% of the annual and do almost all of the wiring before March. Someone needs to get something done before the last minute. Not your fault that he took on extra work while being six months behind already. If it comes to i I’d talk to the city and airport authority who employ him. I’m sorry but if I take on extra work while running behind nights and weekends will be devoted until I’m caught up.
    1 point
  30. Remember... Before and after pictures are an MS tradition! Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  31. That’s a good move. There is a lot of information packed into a modern engine analyzer. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  32. My avionics shop, Twin Lakes Avionics, Mocksville NC, redid my panel 5 years ago. It was a $54 AMU job. No deposit or progress payments. They had a lot of incentive to finish the job. As I recall it took 10 weeks instead of the 8 that they projected but there may have been extenuating circumstances, we discovered a bad alternator and sent off fuel sensors, perhaps other gotchas. In my experience, getting ahead of a contractor with payments does not turn out well for the customer.
    1 point
  33. My understanding is that you will have to replace the control shafts as well... I believe they changed them for the J and later models.
    1 point
  34. I don't know exactly. you are right it is a DJI. Chris has a backpack for it for hiking and 3 spare batteries. We used the first battery to figure out the waypoints and make the flight plan. The second flight was only as long as the video and mostly automatic. I'll text him to see what model it is. OK, he says it is a Phantom 4 Pro.
    1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. All good advice and info. I see what you guys are saying, shorten the twists so the brace on the backside keeps the wire from moving. Is the safety wire there to keep it from moving at all or just unscrewing completely? I thought it was just to keep it in place if it did back out a bit. I've rebuilt a few VW engines but of course they don't have them. Not nit picking at all...I've been told by everyone to get rid of the jabbing hazard. That copper washer is 'convex' that came off an old battery but you guys think I need a lock washer on top of that one? Anthony or whoever suggested the electric grease, I picked some up today to keep that thing clean from now on. Shouldn't you leave the lower nut as a 'hold back'? I didn't know it's that sensitive. Hope I didn't already ruin it but I don't think I got it that tight till I got the grease on it. I was going to use dielectric compound I had but picked up the Dow stuff instead...not sure of the difference. I love this community. Sometimes pride is a hard pill to swallow but the advice is good. Thanks guys.
    1 point
  37. Often we read about people having negative experiences with a maintenance shop, and often the shop is not named. Because there are 2 sides to almost all such stories, this is probably a good course of action. But that leaves us, the readers of the post, without complete data. There are lots of those threads here on Mooneyspace This isnt one of them. This is the opposite. The last few days, I have been in Morgantown, NC with AGL aviation getting an annual done by Lynn and Tamara Mace on Greg Fischer's Bravo. Greg won the annual at the Mooney Summit V's silent auction, as he thought it would be a good idea to have a new set of eyes looking over his near perfect plane as Don Maxwell has been doing the annuals for quite sometime. Most of you know how highly I think of Don. Lynn and Tamara did not disappoint. They exceeded my expectations in every way. I pitched in to "help", as it was an opportunity to really do a 4 day interview with Lynn and really learn of his skillset and his integrity. As Mooney International's newest service center to my knowledge, he really sets a bar for a lot to follow. On time, under budget, attention to detail, integrity and fairness. I could not have asked for a better experience. In full disclosure, Lynn and Tamara have given back to the Mooney Community via the Mooney Summit, like 4 other outstanding MSC's. (Premier, Oasis, Daytona, and SWTA). Thanks AGL for supporting us! If you have a parts need, or a service need, reach out to AGL, you will not be disappointed.
    1 point
  38. Two G5s not half the performance capacity of an Aspen.
    1 point
  39. Wow STEC, $20,000 for a new digital autopilot before installation?! Even by S-tec standards that sets a new low, or high actually. I think I'll go with the new Trutrak setup for $5,000 instead.
    1 point
  40. I do the same thing Paul does. A couple of things. First, there is an interlink between the throttle and fuel flow in the 231, so if you change one, the other changes also. The interlink has a “bump up” as the engine nears full power, in other words, the mixture becomes quickly richer. If you lean out a couple of inches from full power, the interlink brings the fuel down faster than it does in the cruise power range, in other words the mixture becomes leaner. Don’t ask me how this works exactly, I just know from experience that it does. So to produce full rich mixture for takeoff and climb it is important to run the engine at full power. Also, Paul is right that most 231 engines are not set rich enough, particularly those with an intercooler. The intercooler reduces the MP at which the engine makes full power. So if the engine is set up to make 22.5-24 GPH at 40” of manifold pressure and 2700 RPMs (that’s the factory engine full power setting) and the mechanic uses the SID for the factory engine to set the mixture, and then you actually use 36 or 37” on takeoff because that produces 100% power with the intercooler installed, the engine is now running at full power but leaner than 22.5-24 GPH. There are instructions to modify the standard factory engine settings that are in the STC, almost no mechanic uses them unless you provide them yourself. Footnote: its not called a SID anymore, Paul knows the name, I just don’t remember. I just climb at 500 fpm and descend at 500 fpm, makes it easier on the passengers’ ears, and the math is easy. I might fudge the climb to around 700 fpm. This lets the engine stay cool. Cruise climb settings work ok in many weather conditions, but if you have ever done a takeoff and climb in “high, hot” conditions, such as departing Phoenix when its one hundred and teens, or departing high plains airport during the summer, you need all the fuel flow you can get to keep the cylinders cool. Here in MN, I can climb at whatever power setting I want to in the winter, the problem is to get the engine warm enough, not to keep it cool. Summer climb out of Rapid City SD to the flight levels is a different deal entirely.
    1 point
  41. Once you get a Mooney, you'll find yourself flying much farther since it becomes much easier. I love that I can reach either coast from Kansas in an easy day, unless there is widespread ice along the route. All with a modest 4 cylinder non-turbo J. . Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  42. My last flight in N708PJ. I was on the way to drop her off in Florida. Brad.
    1 point
  43. I'm not sure why I find that image funny, but that made me laugh
    1 point
  44. I got my baby back yesterday y'all. After a lot of time and money spend she's back In the air. Fresh overhaul by Zephyr engines, and a lot of oddball airframe work has really made a extreme difference to my Mooney! I'm happy to be back in action! Now it's time for the break in period, I've been going by zephyrs recommendations and hopefully will be finished breaking it in here in a week or so
    1 point
  45. So far for the ahars I think it’s just the 345; GDL 39/52 and the flightstream 210 that will use connext format to throw ahars data. I do see that the Flightstream 510 might be compatible with the 660 via Bluetooth or WiFi but havent heard of anyone using it. Might be a worthwhile negotiation with Garmin ... throw in a discounted 510 and you’re game. :-)! This is probably what you’re looking to do ... FS-210 with synth vis to the Aera 660.
    1 point
  46. No, it’s not. We can’t even get a single electronic ignition to replace the dual magneto. Anyways a properly maintained Bendix D2000 or D3000 series mag is more reliable than two Slick mags anyway.
    1 point
  47. Get the test prep from these guys http://www.sheppardair.com/instrument-rating.htm
    1 point
  48. Not sure if mentioned. Realize that instrument training is artificial. In the real world, you do not fly an approach to missed, set up the next one, fly that to missed, set up the next one.... That is a training/practice/IPC exercise intended to overwork you and force good staying ahead of the airplane habits. Real IFR flight is so much more relaxing.
    1 point
  49. I don't know. I have over 300 Hrs on Bravos, mostly ferrying them. But 0 hours on paying turbo bills, 18gph bills, $100 on oxygen bills, $500 on batteries and who knows what this engine is going to cost me. Glad that this one does not have TKS or air conditioning. But it has long range tanks, which is a must for me. I am very happy with my 82 M20J. Super reliable, trusty and well equipped. Before 2020 AVGAS is going to be over $10/gallon. That would be over $7,000 extra over what I would pay on my M20J for 100hrs of flight time. That is not too bad when I consider that my Aerostar hangar neigbor would be paying over $21,000 for the same hours. Like my neighbor says "oohh but I get there faster". "Yeah but I don't mind saving lots of money by sitting one extra hour, after all I enjoy flying", Like I tell my neighbor my 201 comes with an extra flying hour, hotel and rental car all for free. Can't beat that. Not to mention that he has 12 cylinders to worry about vs me that only has 4. And it takes him half hour to get the thing taxing vs 10 ninutes for me. Maybe I should keep my M20J. José
    1 point
  50. Jose..... The Bravo conversion is almost a non starter. With only 600 hours on a 20 year old engine that never had the conversion, I would strongly consider getting the best price you can at purchase and doing a factory OH first. At last I checked, this was $63k. For that kind of money, I am sure Lyc. would work out the updated cylinders at a nominal coast.
    1 point
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