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Alton Bay Ice Runway (B18) - What a great day.

Here's a very simple and maybe counterintuitive formula for getting a good deal on an airplane. Choose a model that you like. Buy the most expensive example of that model. If you can't afford the most expensive example, choose a different model. While overly simplistic, it is somewhat true. I'd fine tune this formula by saying to buy the best condition, best equipped, best panel, best engine, etc that you can find in the model you're after. Do that and 2 years down the road, you'll realize you got the best deal.

Just returned from Longview with new paint by Aerosmith Aviation. Scheme was done by Scheme Designers and is a combination of the 2009 Acclaim and the 2009 Piper Mirage tail. Very professionally done and great customer service.

Got mine a couple of days ago. Velcro'd above the intercom and below the glare shield. Taking it out for a test flight today. I never use the heater here in Florida so it does not get much use but I'll check it out today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A good avionics shop should know. On my panel upgrade all old wiring was removed and replaced. This is the hardware in the back of my plane and how a good avionics shop's work should look like.

My impression having bought a couple of planes, is that deals are seldom to be had. The best bet for used aircraft is to find one that has been well loved, and don't try and find too much of a bargain. A bargain plane can really bite you later if things are missed on inspection... pay a fair price, and move forward. Some people overprice, make a fair offer and if they don't accept, just move on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did pick up our pup with the plane, about a 45 minute flight home. She is grown up now and loves the car. I should get her used to the plane too.

Now about that Ford... if it has a catalytic converter, it won't keep running on seven cylinders. The cat will pack up. As the back pressure builds, the engine stops running very well.... Preemptively swapping out spark plugs is better than changing out cats... often, when the service engine soon light is turned on, the timing and/or mixture get adjusted to a 'safe' rich setting. Dumping excess fuel to the cat is going to kill the cat over time... ------------- +1 on getting the rigging boards out... Consider Having a rigging day fly-in... the boards come out and everyone can see how close theirs are to being well rigged. The only cost comes with the need to make adjustments. Thinking outloud.... -a-

Brad, Congrats on the big 1000 posts! A panel with so may modern indicators is a sure sign that the finance administrator likes you to fly. Best regards, -a-

Yep to go down fast, drop the gear put out the brakes and dive in a 45 degree bank and go to the max gear extended speed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I 100% agree with don's assessment. Moreover- the guidance he posted is applicable to any aircraft that is equipped with speed brakes. the key to speed brakes is to remember- that any time you deploy them, you are consciously degrading the efficiency of your aircraft. There are circumstances outside of your own control that may dictate their use... but if you think ahead enough and stay ahead of the aircraft enough... and ATC doesn't paint you into a corner- you should be able to fly more efficiently without them. just my opinion.

It's been a long search, but it patience has paid off. Thanks to all for the info and encouragement shared on this site.

Cyril: See the picture below. You already know how to create a new topic from the top right of the screen. When you do, you will see two options on the middle left of the screen. Under "Create New Topic" you will see the options under "Topic Details." They are "Content" and "Poll." Take it from there. My work is done here.

Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't . . .

Yesterday, another ki258 bites the dust, less than 10 hrs on an overhaul. This time vfr. Thankfully, the "non primary" Aspen was on board. Please rethink serious ifr (all ifr is serious) with only a "fine Swiss watch" ki25x IA and no backup.

Purchased mine from Amazon today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm hoping a new user signs up in a couple of days calling himself "mynameisalsonobody" or "armyhelicoptersRcool". And none of us will let on that we know anything about it but be glad that Dave's back.

I decided not to rummage through tax returns and garbage financial data today then I tackled my baffling that folded down in a couple places, I suspect at my annual the MSC did not ensure the baffling was in the proper position,prior to putting on the cowling and presto it formed folded down. On a trip to West Palm last month I noticed my temps were up on some cylinders so I looked at the baffles and yep. I purchased the materials from Aircraft spruce last week and used the bad pieces as a template, then used a pop rivet thingie for the first time, geez worked great. Fit great looked great. Took it for a test fly, they stayed in place, plus the temps are back to normal, I can't believe I did it and it worked. I attached the before pix and after pix. My Observation every time I bring it in for service I'll mention to the mechanic did he make sure the cowling is over the baffling properly, grab my flashlight and check it before leaving, It's a real shame having to look over the shoulders of the MSC mechanic but lesson learned.

We idle at 1000RPM to keep the cams wet.

I agree, which is why I do exactly as you described, but he is 76 years old and isn't going to change. He can keep popping jugs until he quits flying, but I sure as hell cant win an argument with him on anything. Haha

While I agree that speed brakes become less effective with lower speeds, I use them to some degree in most landings, and keep them deployed on rollout. The electric units pop in and out so quickly that they can be used to "fine tune" the last few hundred feet before the flare. I fly out of a 2600' runway, which means you don't want to float down it with excessive speed. With full flaps, and speedbrakes deployed, and in no headwind landings, it is easy to roll off the runway below 1000' from the approach end. This means that touchdown occurs just as the stall warning starts to sound, and the red light in the CYA-100 AOA lights. I've had speed brakes on all three of my Mooneys, and I find them to be a useful tool. I also find them valuable when having to descend rapidly to get under closely spaced Class B rings where topography limits getting lower too soon. I know that some MS members regard speedbrakes as a crutch for "poorly planed descents", but I have no problem using them as just one more tool in flying. By the way I have a light on my panel that lights up when the speedbrakes are deployed, but at high speed, the rumble alone, and the instant perceived speed reduction makes their deployment quite obvious-and you always look out on the wing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also fly a Lear 60, have over 15,000 hours and 7,000 hours of night time. A Grumman is no more or less an airplane than any other, just one that fits my mission and budget. "Cool" is operating an airplane that best suits your mission, at a price well within your budget and with a high degree of safety. Sad that some think others are less worthy because of the aircraft they own. I guess I have a unique ability, I look forward to learning from everyone, regardless of experience level, background or the aircraft they fly. The OP originally stated his desire to inexpensively comply with ADS-B. Depending on his existing equipment, cost efficient compliance may not start with purchasing a Garmin navigation system. There are less expensive alternatives he may not be aware of. The FAA is not going to shut down all the VORs, they aren't even going to shut down most of the VORs. If they did, what would be the backup to GPS? GPS is easily jammed and a backup is needed both on the ground and in the airplane. Deciding to sell your SL30 and install a new GPS nav system because you read on a post that the FAA is going to soon turn the switch off on all the VORs, could be a decision based on misinformation. More research would be wise.

AP didn't like seeing the white streaks on main exhaust so i pulled the muffler... Bead blasted questionable spots and didnt see anything on main out, but did see start of crack and you can clearly see bulge on right side. Sending in to AWI, they wanted down tubes also. Im thinking in back of my mind about just getting all "new" slip joint unit. Will the SB allow for a conversion on my core to slip joint if they find down tubes are shot too? Probably have them weld the egt holes and move them up a couple inches, get rid of the farmyard engineering and replacing the old EI w/JPI. On another note, how often do you check torque on your engine mounts? J Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Tested mine today. Taxing with the door open read between 12 -18. In flight it was steady at 3 both with heat on and off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You might forward the information to AOPA and EAA I know they have folks that help fight this sort of thing unfortunately it's a tough fight.

Nice. Better than most I have seen here. I have been discussing some future installs with my AME and he is willing to inspect, sign off and do the revised weight/balance, etc. I suspect I may go this route even though it would likely cost a bit for some specialized crimper dies, etc. it is a little frustrating as am in a position where I should be paying people to do this work, but after seeing what most installers and techs seems to think is acceptable, means that I usually have to go back in and clean it up to my standards. I can't hire people to work on my house for the same reason...

I'm looking forward to Cyril's next steps..... Best regards, -a-

just wanted to let anyone know that may be interested. Dan quoted me $199 with exchange for a rechromed johnson bar handle. He didn't have a price for a new one, but he said it was nearly $300 in 2007. LOL. Since I'm having mine worked on at Cole, I've decided to swap the handles. I've been trying to clean up my cockpit, and my handle looked like rusty colored crap.

I have a diagonal bruise across my chest right now. I'm convinced it helped save my life. Add a CO detector too! Beautiful F. My C was one earlier N number. 9149V. As Marauder mentioned, after the above mods add GPSS of you don't have it. Those that don't have it don't know what they are missing. Dan

The 90s Mooneys (J, M, R) all had similar beautiful analog panels! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe I'd know which way was up if I had all this: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Mike.

The basic rule of thumb in aviation is ... Pay now or pay later.

Here's my problem I too have a D and feel realisticly they're worth what? $30,000-$35,000 if you had to sell it? So now I add in $14,000 for new radios (45-50% of hull value). Is my value going up $14,000? My guess I might return half that. So now I have a $42,000 resale airplane (with $49,000 in it). Reasonable in my mind for a well equipped mid-time D. Now, will I get the extra $14,000 value for the flying I do? Probably not me and my style flying. I don't need LPV. I've got a first generation GPS that drives my Accutrac A/P so I can go where I want. So for me it wouldn't pay off, nice as it is. Now, the "cool" factor is way up there. I can wait for another year or 2 for ADSB at maybe $1,000 + install? :-) :-) It might just happen

Old news, but it can happen to experienced professionals too: https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB125816841453048137

There is no rule of thumb, my advice is to narrow your search to a particular model, and any must haves for you to consider it. Then constantly check various sites, makes notes of any that fit your search requirements. Keep doing this, it will give a feel for what's a good price and when see a plane drop in price that is a clue the seller is motivated. Sometimes they get listed for a good price right from the start, these don't last long, and can sell within days. If you have done your homework you'll realize it's a good buy and be ready to jump on it.

I quit them after having the same issue. I'm now a tempest user and won't ever go back. A bonus...Tempest has a magnet! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Champion quality. Just like their spark plugs and slick magnetos. you can use it. The clean oil flows out from center to the bearings. So as long as the inside center is not rusted it will be ok.

I finally got the accu track installed. It works as it should. Also the ability for standard rate turns with the turn of a knob is nice. Im happy with it so far. It's pretty basic, but it follows the magenta line just fine.

Wow.. mine are off as well... this thread is great, I may have to take mine to kmrn as well. Thanks!

Did a little experiment. 4 CO detectors side by side while I was heating up my hangar with a propane heater. Only the Sensorcon unit picked anything up. The other 3, including one with a temperature gauge didn't move. None of them triggered an alarm but I expected the ones with a zero PPM number display to begin counting up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I vote to either leave it the same as it is now, or create three groups: Vintage: M20A-G Classic: M20J-K-L Modern: M20M-V JMHO.

Well what I did was trade the installer for my ki 256 ( some nut really wanted it with 700 hrs /100 since overhaul...I also traded king hsi...basically for the install labor and S Ellis built the new panel ,painted and labeled (remember the pre chinese skeleton crew)He matched the grey pebbled perfectly..I remember it was 950 for the metal forming,g-500 cutout...those were the days!

Maybe this thread needs to be move to the "Rant & Rave" section. Quite honestly, I am getting tired of hearing opinions about the "deficiencies" of glass from people who have limited or no working knowledge of the technology. I have 4 solid years of ownership of a glass panel and I can assure you as a 29 year "steam" gauge flier, that I would trade all those years for the 4 years of "glass" flying. It doesn't matter which glass you fly, they both do a great job of increasing awareness and providing additional capabilities. Any of you who want to see first hand, come fly with me.

Anyone still flying a vintage Mooney without shoulder belts should reconsider. I'm certain that both my wife and I would have sustained serious injury landing our 64E off airport in 2012 had I not had shoulder belts installed.

Ample internet venues out there for bloviating on non-mooney topics. I use this site strictly as a place to alienate people with my divisive Mooney-related opinions.

Yup. As I've been doing for almost 50 years. Might not be PC, but clear and brief. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I have absolutely no idea is this was related to vfr into imc as has been suggested. But I thought as long as we were taking guesses I'd add this one...

Alex- Congrats again on your new bird - can't wait to go flying with you. You know my opinions on tugs, but what I didn't mention is that most owners, just like aircraft, will let you know what they picked is what to go with. Many of the tugs work, and personally I sometimes suffer from paralysis from analysis. The reason I like the powertow is because they do well in wet or bad weather as you just have to push down on them some, and physics wise, more weight equals more friction equals more traction (not quite the equation, but the logic). My old powertow that you saw was the EZ 35 model - there really is not clutch. It runs at a constant speed, and you lift if off the ground to slow down progress when pushing. The reason I use it is it was free and with a little elbow grease and the help of a mechanic, it works again! I purchased the Mooney hookup for it from Powertow and got it working. If it breaks, most likely I'll order a new powertow EZ 40. When I was in Minnesota Tim Lundquist of Strategic Aircraft showed me his EZ 40 and the improvements are substantial as there is a clutch and it just is much more nimble and easier to use. I've never used a two wheel model, but probably would like that too. Last suggestion is what we talked about which is to get an old tractor/lawnmower off craigslist for $100-$350 and then remove the broken cutting deck (why it's being sold cheap) and bolt an attachment point on. Get a towbar, and boom, you have your own mini tug. I think Brett (bnicolette) used to have a similar tug setup - Brett - can you post a pic? If anyone else has this sort of tug/tractor/riding mower setup, please do post. Towbar- The towbar that came with the Missile is adjustable (it expands). The reason we had the short towbar is because it fits in our baggage compartments. The long tow bar is good for steering, but is hard to leverage for pushing. I've thought about getting a long one just for the hanger and leaving the adjustable one in the airplane for trips. Good luck! -Seth