Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/10/2024 in all areas

  1. I posted about the upgrade and avionics available in the pre-J model forum but this is what the new panel looks like from Monarch Aviation in Defuniak Springs, FL. I’ve had Carl work on my 1965 M20E for 15 years and I recommend him with the highest regard. The installation was superb and you cannot find better customer service! Steven
    4 points
  2. The switches are sealed so there is no way to clean the contacts if that's the problem. If the plunger is sticking, you can spray it with solvent and work it back and forth manually before the solvent dries.
    2 points
  3. WOW! I had this happen to me once, back in 2003, in my 231. I was at Stella Maris in the Bahamas and had left written instructions re towing and the limits, but it didn't matter--they bent the tubes. I don't find the damage until pre-flight--after I'd already cleared Bahamian Customs outbound and had a US Customs time cut to make. In the end, my insurance wound up covering it--despite my getting pictures, etc. The wrinkle was trying to subrogate an FBO in a foreign country. Don Maxwell did the repair--thankfully, it wasn't as bad as the apparent damage your pictures show! --Up. P.S. I love love loved this lineman's t-shirt at the 2022 Mooney Summit in Tampa (KTPF).
    2 points
  4. I’ll also say that the worst part of the upgrade is seeing how well the GX3, GTN 650xi and GFC 500 can fly compared to hand flying. I’ve completed about 10 hours cross country so far. It is absolutely better than anything you can imagine. I didn’t get the yaw damper but it flies great just needs a little right rudder on climb or it’s about 1/4 ball out of trim. I don’t mind holding it in as I still get to participate in the flying…. A little. It’s truly amazing system!
    2 points
  5. I used Gee Bee’s baffle seal. It’s better than the red rubber. Well reinforced.
    2 points
  6. The buyer would only turn it into an annual once the sale is consummated. No seller in their right mind would submit to putting their airplane under annual inspection for the pre-buy.
    1 point
  7. I don't understand why someone would want to remove the Miniflo-L from their panel even when upgrading it. If there is one item where multiplicity of function is useful it is fuel quantity and fuel computations. Even though I installed the MVP-50 in my upgrade, I kept the Miniflo-L due to its usefulness. When my display goes out again, the unit is going in for repair, not removal.
    1 point
  8. Work continues... Old panel completely removed (looks like the plane hit the flying spaghetti monster), new LEDs (nav, strobe, and recog) are installed, new servos in place. Should have panel mockups and options soon to finalize.
    1 point
  9. I agree with Andy about acidic gases, but I suspect the main reason they vent the air box is H2 gas. Hydrogen gas is a byproduct of a charging battery and a sealed battery according to Google isn’t completely truly sealed. “While called "sealed," aircraft batteries are not completely sealed in the sense that they have no vents; they are designed to contain the electrolyte and prevent leaks under normal operation, but may have small pressure relief valves that can release gas if the battery becomes overcharged or experiences extreme conditions”. I remember as a kid the comment that you should always charge a battery in a well ventilated area due to the byproduct of hydrogen gas. I always thought that was ridiculous, until I actually had a small explosion under the hood of my friend’s car. I assumed there was a small arc at the battery terminal and the hydrogen under the hood ignited. (FYI, my friend didn’t believe me when I told him about the explosion)
    1 point
  10. I don't believe they've addressed it.
    1 point
  11. It is. The filler neck is just plastic, so if you crank down the safety wire it’ll break off the ear with the safety wire hole. So the tube will loosen 1/4” and get stopped by the safety wire- which then causes more wear to the ear. So the best thing is for people to simply not over tighten the dipstick. There’s no reason to do so, it won’t come out in flight, and even if it did the oil still couldn’t get out.
    1 point
  12. That makes sense. There is a tube in the side of the box that I’ve assumed was just a vent. Since I am using a sealed battery, should I still connect it, or should I seal off the tube to force that air across the #4 cylinder. I’ve closed off the gaps at the rear of the doghouse, lower cylinder barrel area, on both sides, and tightened up the front baffling as well. Still finishing up the annual so haven’t determined any benefit yet.
    1 point
  13. That tube is supposed to be connected to the battery box with a rubber hose attached to a fitting. Your battery box fitting might be missing. The original idea was to pressurize the battery box in order to ventilate corrosive battery acid fumes out the tube at the bottom drain through another rubber tube to the cowl flap area. Not so important nowadays with sealed batteries, but should still be connected for cooling.
    1 point
  14. It’s actually been in the works for nearly two decades as I discussed in my blog… https://www.avwxtraining.com/post/the-end-of-airmets-finally
    1 point
  15. well i see all the other planes have their tails on backwards as a trick to try and make their airplane look like it’s going fast because in reality they are not, like the 60’s fin tail cars, But i grew up in a mooney and only learned of these slower less efficient other airplanes when i went to get my private pilots license cause dad wasn’t going to let me learn how to land in the mooney.
    1 point
  16. I just use the bottle adapter that screws into the oil filler neck, that comes with all 20w-50 oil cases. You get a new one every time you buy 12qts of oil. It’s specifically designed to hold the bottle so you can leave it and let all the oil drain out of the bottle. You just have to push the bottle into the funnel past the lip, it’s designed for that. Not sure why nobody knows how to use it or what it’s for. It’s the best funnel attachment I’ve ever used and it’s FREE
    1 point
  17. The map is for winds at cruise altitudes (7000-10000) not surface winds, they were 1/2-1/3 Once above 3000ft agl, it went smooth: there is not much terrain around and temperatures are very cold for thermals. Under 3000ft agl it was bumpy and the takeoff and landing were gusty (Mooney handles it well with no flap).
    1 point
  18. I bet you're a hoot at parties. You aren't completely wrong though. Those numbers vary quite a lot with conditions, altitude, etc... obviously. I wasn't trying to say every time you take the aircraft up that you're going to get the exact same performance. Sometimes it's 172kts... sometimes it's 177kts. Sometimes it's 12.2gph... sometimes it's 13.3gph. For example, here is a photo of 175kts on 12gph @ 10.5k feet. (note, this is before we removed the Moritz gauges)
    1 point
  19. Thanks for coming on the forum and letting us know what and why it happened. A valuable contribution is an understatement. Don’t be surprised if some day you’re invited to present your experience and the way you handled it at a safety seminar.
    1 point
  20. The M20K seems to be the sweet spot for insurance for instrument rated pilots flying short & mid-body Mooneys.
    1 point
  21. Is this the first time with a constant-speed prop airplane? If so, the manifold pressure in a NA (normally aspirated) engine can never be higher than the atmospheric pressure at the altitude the airplane is flying. So, on a standard day (ISA 15C 29.92inHG), if WOT (wide open throttle), you would get ~29.9 at sea level, and drop 1" every 1000ft of altitude. So, lets say you are flying at a density altitude of 11kft, then, WOT, you won't have more than ~30-11=19inHg.
    1 point
  22. Awesome! Thank you! The learning is coming at an insane pace right now.
    1 point
  23. That stuff confuses me too (not that hard). I'm thinking "Didn't I just read this a couple of hours ago?"
    1 point
  24. The overall thrust of the comments is that you might need some ground refresher on the effect of altitude on engine performance, manifold pressure, and indicated vs true airspeed. If @redbaron1982's pickup of 11K is correct, depending on ambient temperature, ~18" MP sounds about right and your 125 KIAS equates to ~150 KTAS. Is that OK?
    1 point
  25. @finnicky7 Tim - I'm gonna have to make a tiny detour to see your plane some day. You're doing the avionics, too, right?
    1 point
  26. That "Date of Issue" does NOT mean that is when someone first became a Private Pilot. I had my SS# on my initial ticket so changed after a bunch of years. Yes, he may be knew, but maybe not...I understand you did say "may be"
    1 point
  27. Exactly. Plug it in and leave it on. I use an Aerotherm Deuce. Once temps go below 50 I put it on and leave it on. Aviation Consumer did research and found leaving a forced air heating system on is the best way to prevent corrosion in cold weather. I put a comforter over the cowl to lower the load on the heater. Yesterday, I arrived at my hangar, OAT 46, DP 29 oil temp on power up was 74. By leaving it on you take advantage of heat soaking the engine and using the latent heat properties of the oil to keep it that way, even after unplugging for flight.
    1 point
  28. This will not affect your rate in any way whatsoever. It has no affect on you financially personally or otherwise.
    1 point
  29. En route MMQT-MMOX, I got a couple of shots of Mount Popocatepetl, which is southeast of Mexico City. There was a sigmet for volcanic ash downwind of this; I flew on the upwind side.
    1 point
  30. Everyone likes their panel design going into an upgrade project. Hours and hours of thought and "what ifs" go in to the layout. I'm no different and I really love how it came out, but there are a few things I would think through differently now that I've had a year to fly behind it. Mine looks quite similar to your plan, accepting the GMC507 location. I'd put the GMC507 where you have yours. I set my panel up so that everything I needed to touch inflight was accessible with my right hand, and I run the G3X split screen most of the time with the EIS and PFD on the left side. I make all my altimeter, altitude and heading adjustments through the G5 and the GMC507 rather than with the left knobs on the G3X. This is easy with the G5 and GMC507 at the top of the panel, but would be even easier if the 507 was under the G3X. I would think more about a clean sheet design on the panel, rather than constraining myself with the standard placement for the radio stack and the gear switch/trim indicators. I would look at moving those switches/indicators and the G5 and the strike finder elsewhere so I could have the radio stack right next to the G3X. This makes it easier to access the GTN650 for the flight plan elements and procedures that don't pass through the G3X for IFR ops. Not a huge deal as it isn't difficult to fat finger the GTN650 in the standard location but it would be easier. In my case I would move my GDU 470 from the right side of the panel and put it next to the GDU460. However, a lot of things have to move around to move the G5, so there are trade-offs. I agree that moving the USB ports to the bottom of the panel is a good idea, unless you're needing to power a portable device on the glareshield. I have the Electroaire mag/start switch panel and really like it. @Pinecone is right, the mag switches have a light and cheesy feel to them compared to mil spec switches but they work and have a decent positive over-center switch function. Some things to consider with the Electroaire as compared to a keyed ignition switch is engine start requires a new habit pattern to make sure you get the second mag on after start, and at shutdown you need to make sure you add a checklist step to confirm you've turned the mag switches off. "Key on the glareshield" isn't a thing anymore. I moved my headset jacks from under the panel up onto the panel on the pilot side to get them out of the way. I found that I kept bumping the plugs with my knee in the original recessed location under the panel and that's why I moved them. A better location would be to move them to the side panel in a recessed housing like in the later model Mooneys. EDIT: Something else we did that required a minor modification to the installation was to put the TOGA button on the left horn of the yoke. We used the CWS button on the King autopilot cluster since CWS isn't available for the certified GFC500. That way both the A/P disconnect button and the GA button are under my left thumb as I approach minimums, and I select the proper one as appropriate. I also used the remote mount Guardian CO detector and interfaced it with the G3X. I get CO values from 0ppm, rather than from 30ppm with the 553 model, and I also get a CAS message and a tone on the G3X if the sustained CO level goes above 50ppm. The CO level is recorded along with all of the other flight and engine data on the G3X data card. And it's one less thing taking up panel space. You might consider putting the compass out of the way on the right side of the panel. You would need it if the whole panel went down, but in normal operation you will never look at it. So consider using the valuable panel space areas for other things. Just as an aside, I understand the DC8 cockpit had the compass located on the back wall behind the pilots.
    1 point
  31. How is the Scimitar working for you?
    1 point
  32. 240K is going to be the highest price ever fetched for a J with a 2200 hr engine and 5-6 P&I
    1 point
  33. They don’t have to be the original felt, actually the modern silicone baffle material is far superior but will take more time to make it right. Picture below is an example of how to seal around the starter.
    1 point
  34. Of all the goofy things we have had forever…. That could be changed by swapping two wires… Why is the order of the ignition switch… 1) Off 2) R 3) L 4) Both IOW… why is R left of L? Bryan, really great graphics… I can read them from here! Best regards, -a-
    1 point
  35. Hello, I wrote about some interest for a Mooney M22. I am the owner of the M22 in Australia. Aircraft was originally registered in the US as N7719M. My father flew the aircraft to Belgium in 1974 and I flew the aircraft to Australia in 2000. I have registered the aircraft in Australia since 2003. (VH-YVE) If interested in the aircraft please let me know Regards, Yves
    1 point
  36. This picture of N1167Y was taken on December 8 and posted on the Facebook Mooney Forum. Generally after a Mooney has a clean gear-up landing, they lift the plane and extend the gear. This sad K likely has damage to the landing gear and mechanism if they are just leaving it sitting on its belly.
    0 points
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.