I do some in depth A-I on google and this is what I gathered. With engine running and master and avionics on, start pulling breakers to isolate. NO joy there. So A-I steered me to a "ghost" reading or the shunt leading to the ammeter needing cleaning. Don't believe in ghosts, so I went for the shunt. I cleaned all the terminals, washers, screws, bolts - everything and proudly took her out to give it a test. Guess what? Same reading. I ran her up long enough to get whatever was "drawing" to get hot. I shut her down and went for the battery,  since a bad cell was mentioned. Nope. Although I did not open the battery box, the cables felt cool. 

That led me to believe that the MOONEY stock meter itself was bad. With the engine running, I checked the ammeter with my meter on “amps 20. Then it got exciting. Immediately the ammeter went from 35 to FLLL pegged 70 amps. 

Better than that, I pulled the breaker and shut her down. I tapped on the gauge, now with no power stuck at 70 full, right deflection. No joy.

Then I decided to start her up and see if that would help to get the ammeter reset.  Well, now the starter does not work. Wonderful. So there we are. In retrospect, I am going backwards. Just back from the hangar so I have not consulted  A-I. Any Ideas?

Bottom line is I HAD a running AC with a high ammeter reading. No, I cannot start  her. I would reall any appreciate any help

Thanks,

Tbf I've not done anything that resembles short fields, I think the shortest was 3400ft.

I find that no flap, 90kt approaches vastly improves my landings. Plus on go it's less management I just advance throttle and manage speed. Is this normal to basically have done 30+ hours now and not used the flaps, like ever?

Seems I have a minor fuel seep on the fuel outlet on one wing; the seepage is evident both by blue stains and by avgas smell. It seems to come through both the 4 screws that attach it, and the gasket itself. The IPC lists the gasket as pn 610261-001 (section 28-20-00, part of item 58).

Lasar want $65 for one, but also refer to 462-021, which seems to be a gasket for a fuel sender (bigger hole inside, 5 screws). Pretty expensive, and a long wait for me, with shipping to Poland.

Two questions:

 - the gasket doesn't seem to be particularly complicated, so I am wondering if I could just OPP one, and if so, what would you suggest to use as the source material?

 - should I use some kind sealant on the screws, or a washer from the same material the gasket is made of?

Any and all suggestions greatly appreciated!

I have a M20J MSE and am having gear retraction issues that are intermittent.  Starting last fall, first flight of a day upon gear selection up, I would momentarily get a "gear unsafe" light and the gear bypass button would occasionally illuminate shortly.  The gear would then retract and would work normally the remainder of the day.  Unfortunately, this issue is going from momentarily to a longer time.  

Yesterday, I flew and upon gear selection up, the gear unsafe light was on, gear down light on, bypass button illuminated, and warning horn.  I waited 5-10 seconds, then pushed the lighted bypass button.  The horn stopped and the gear down light extinguished, however, the gear unsafe light remained on.  I waited a short time (15-30 sec)  and put the gear back down, it extended normally.  I tried to retract the gear again, same issue.  Gear unsafe light remained on.  I decided I would extend the gear and fly the short hop to where I have maintenance performed gear down for it to be looked at.  

When I got to that airport, I decided to try the gear again.  It worked fine.  Retraction and extension at normal rates with no abnormal lights or horn.  I cycled the gear in flight several times even.  

My thoughts...

1) It's the airspeed safety switch...  But, if that was the case why would the gear unsafe light remain illuminated after pushing the button?  And if that was the case, why is this problem only occurring first flight of the day?  I would think if the airspeed diaphragm was bad, it would continue to be bad.

2) Up limit switch...  Makes sense that the switch is dirty and once it is exercised, it works normally.  Also makes sense that it started to occur when its cold.  However, the gear bypass button lighting up makes no sense if this is the issue?

3). Gear motor...  Maybe getting old and needs replacement?

I am having this put on jacks to look for the IA and myself to look at, but was hopeful someone maybe had this issue before and could maybe point us in the right way.  I am leaning towards it being the airspeed switch.  I have read on this forum that there is a way to repair the existing switch with a drop of oil.  Anyone care to share how to take this apart this switch and lube since they appear to be impossible to find?

I thank everyone for any help! 

Today I was changing the oil and filter and noticed blue stain on the fuel line for the #2 cylinder and what looked like a wet spot around the injector and on top of the push rod tube.

I ran the fuel pump with the engine off and couldn't see any obvious leaking.

Pictures below.

How worried should I be?

Then ended up swapping my KAP computer. That fixed the original issue, however, a new issue has popped up which they have traced back to the manual electric trim switch on the yoke. Some malfunction within this switch is causing the autopilot to disconnect in flight at different intervals. 

They would like to replace this switch. A new part from Honeywell is $3k+ and is not available until at least October 2025. I see a couple on Ebay for around $300, but before rolling the dice on an Ebay part, I thought I would check here to see if anyone had one due to a recent autopilot upgrade. My understanding is that this trim switch will usually get replaced during an autopilot upgrade. 

I have the KAP 150 autopilot, but I think the Bendix King trim switch could be somewhat more universal than that. It is a split switch, left side is smaller. 

If anyone has one, or can point me to a good source, I would appreciate it. 

Arm support point broke where it attaches to the baggage door.

Cannot  find the small piece that broke ant top in hinge support. Appears to be light aluminum. Has internal slider that use to extend when lifted.

1994 M20J MSE.

Mine fell out some time ago, I hope it did not hit anyone one!  My service center can't find a replacement.  Mooney was not helpful.

Is this a totally throw away unit, or is there a chance a new shaft o-ring could be installed?

Thanks!

I was looking into my annunciator bulbs and see they are CM7330 bulbs. I was looking into an LED alternative and found these that say they replace 7330’s: 

BPF200-0CW-014V

https://www.ledtronics.com/Products/ProductsDetails.aspx?WP=1087

has anyone on here tried these and had luck with them? Thanks in advance!

 Jared

Please PM me if you're interested...

*This was truly a full avionics upgrade, from steam gauges to full glass, so there will be a lot to review.

I am trying to find the P/N for the switch "housing" or "assembly" (I don't know how it is actually called ).. I am talking about the black plastic that houses the buttons and trim switch on top of the yoke horn. Mine broke on the base and I want to find a replacement. However, I couldn't find it in the IPC.

I did get a few new red plastic rings for the circuit breakers from Aircraft Spruce. Hopefully they will fit or I will try heat. I have three...one for the gear motor....So...question...which circuit breakers should the other two go on? 

Thanks everyone!

Alan

N913ND

Question for more knowledgeable people.  Is this ground handling damage in your experience or a common failure point?  Additionally, they are investigating if this is an airworthy issue and hope to get the plane airworthy for me to have it repaired at my local mechanic.  
 

I appreciate any thoughts or insight.  I want to be fair, but also know the nose gear is prone to poor line techniques which isn’t my financial issue.

Curt

Attached are pictures of a Monroy long range installation - this is the vent from the forward inboard Mooney tank to the outboard aft Monry tank.  Seems like a perfect place to hook up a ferry tank inlet.

My question is - will a 2006 M20M have a similar vent?  How did Mooney make the tanks larger, same as Monroy?

Aerodon

Thanks Everyone

Alan

While I look at a larger upgrade, would you try to replace the 525A or does this sound like a magnetometer/gyro issue?  Anyone have a similar experience?  I saw some old threads from 2016 but no issue was quite the same as this one so thought I'd start this thread.

David