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Thanks - it helped!

I think I've heard of more gear collapses due to lock block or other J-bar failures than I have electric actuator failures that led to damage. I think Skip is on the nose that the most likely failure mechanism is the pilot.

I also have some problems to get the Oil temp up when it's cold or less than 10c. Suspect that AeroShell 100W is little bit to cold to flow properly then, giving me MP fluctuations. Philips X/C 20W50 would most probably work much better, and I will change next week or at next annual and use it both summer/winter. Have 7x AeroShell 80W on the shelf that I might use this time, since I won't fly many hours until my Annual i February due to bad weather here.

Then I can use AeroShell 80W Plus if I want to use "two" different oils. Will use Philips X/C 20W50 + Camguard all the time in future.

Thanks Skip, I'd never reverse bled a brake system, but alas, this old dog has been taught a new procedure / technique ( I hate the terminology of trick}. After reverse bleeding the "bad side" I had to do my "good side". NEVER have i had such solid brakes in many years of flying. Thanks Again & Merry Christmas !!

They didn't on mine, either. And stopping position has varied occasionally as described above since I bought her in 2007 . . . The prop was balanced prior to my purchase, and I had it checked (still 0.01) several years ago.

The biggest failure mechanism isn't the actuator -- it's the pilot. Just look at all the gear ups. And, it's not that people are stupid or careless -- a lot of very experienced pilots have gotten distracted and missed the gear. I used to be in a club in San Jose that had a manual gear M20C that managed to get bellied in twice.

Check with Skylar Thody at Skyman Avionics 541-604-9573. I think he still has mine from my 1994 M20J MSE. It was working fine when removed for the G3X installation.

What’s the point of having 2 engines if you forget to have fuel going through them? https://www.wesh.com/article/small-aircraft-crash-i-95-brevard-county/69665707 https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/563147

Who’s “outraged”?

I don't think they remove the prop on a dynamic balance. At least they did not do that on mine.

I went thru this last year and would advise you not to mess around with a used one unless you bench-check it first for leakage. Seals are not available for many of these old ones, unfortunately. I had Century Instruments in Wichita mark a freshly-overhauled United ASI for my J and would recommend that course vs. gambling on some salvage/used ones.

for those having a hard time, keeping up, there are plenty of motor repair facilities that can service a Dukes motor. The weak point in the actuator has also been addressed with the pending batch of gears to be manufactured and sold to service the fleet, keeping your eyes on eBay can result in a good bargain regarding actuator components. Contrary to popular belief, the J bar system is not infallible. Wear to the bar, handle, and lock points in the up and down block as well as physical demands to raise gear are an issue in the real world. Gear ups occur with improper seating of the bar into the down lock, and as a result of down lock failure due to wear resulting in the J bar not properly latching down and releasing with a fold up of the gear. Gear failures, whether Johnson bar or electric are likely to total an aircraft if not adequately insured.

Q Rodney King…

imagine coming to a thread and sniping and then presenting outrage when ridiculed. Now that's funny.

Anyone has a spare ASI that could be installed in a 2900GW M20J? We currently have a Sigma Tek 820308-525, but it's leaking and wouldn't pass pitot/static check. Thanks.

Lance, I think someone miss remembers this issue with the Cowl flaps. What you’re describing is absolutely true with the 231 but not the 252. Quite some time ago, I had the privilege of spending a week with the continental engineer that did the original engine installation engineering. that’s when they discovered that if the 231 Cal flaps were completely closed it caused backflow at the air inlet, reducing the efficiency of the prop, reducing cooling and reducing air speed and my recollection is the advice from the continental engineer was to keep the 231 Cowl flaps open by an inch and a half for the fully close position. but if you examine the 252 cowling, you’ll see that issue was corrected because we have large exhaust scoops on either side of the larger cowling door, so the aircraft has plenty of exhaust outlet on both sides with the cowl flap door fully close. my own testing as an owner for over 20 years has shown me as well that I gained a couple knots going completely closed even though most the time I have to run with them just a little bit open at altitude in order to keep my CHTs where I want. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do they normally remove the prop? I didn't see anything in the log entry about that, just removal of the spinner. I'll check with the shop.

I got it done and it was relatively easy, although it took two people. I combined the advice from MikeOH and N201MKTurbo. I got a heat gun (Home Depot) and a skin wedge (Amazon) and [from the outside] had my son use the heat gun while I used the skin wedge to separate the plexi from the metal skin. It went pretty quickly once we got a rhythm. I then used the heat gun again on the inside to scrape off [using a putty knife] the residual sealant. Thank you for the advice everyone - I appreciate it! - Matt

I think on my engine there is a locating dowel on the flange so the prop can only go on one way?

FWIW I had a job back in the 80s where I needed to cross the Rockies a couple of times a week. If I couldn’t fly I would drive. I never crashed my plane because of ice. Wish I could say that about my car. I was able to make 95% of the trips flying my NA M20F. I was flying the Mooney about 450 hours a year back then. There are two ways to cross the Rockies. Go up high to the MEA and cruise across the mountains. Strategically pick your way through the passes VFR. If you have a turbo, oxygen and FIKI, #1 is the way to go. If not, #2 is more reliable. #2 requires a lot of experience and familiarity with the area.

Yeah, the landing gear motor / gears need attention every 50 years. Well, guess what, 50 +/- has now arrived, or will soon enough, for a lot of Mooneys and the parts aren’t there or they are at LASAR prices. I’ll keep flying around like a hobo with my well maintained and balanced J-Bar, and you all can…… sit on the ramp. Enjoy!

Friends don't let friends buy Gill batteries. Concorde has two sizes that will fit your airplane, the RG24-11 and the RG-24-15. You don't need the vented version (it has an "M: as a suffix), but you can use either version. Since you only have one battery on a J model it makes sense to buy the one with the best amp rating, the RG24-15. Chief Aircraft has the best price when you consider they cover shipping and they don't collect tax. A shop is going to charge you full retail on the battery. You can easily change this yourself, although you may need some help safety-wiring the hold down. You can buy the RG24-11 for $749 or the RG24-15 for $899.

The autopilot wasn't working, but it sounds like the attitude indicator functionality was still working OK?