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Speed Mods ... ? Really?

Speed mods

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#61 Bob_Belville

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 02:52 PM

 Speaking of the radio access panels, any opinions on the best way to seal them so they get stuff wet in the rain? 

201 windshield and seal the top cowl once and for all.  :P


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#62 daver328

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 03:27 PM

Speaking of the radio access panels, any opinions on the best way to seal them so they get stuff wet in the rain?


I read in a thread on here where guys were successfully using a thin weather stripping from hardware stores. One of those future projects on the list for me ...
David

#63 Shadrach

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 04:31 PM

I read in a thread on here where guys were successfully using a thin weather stripping from hardware stores. One of those future projects on the list for me ...

 

That's what I use, but I don't like it much.  It's sticky and is about the consistency of taffy in the summer. It does seal well though.  If you go this route, know that in this particular application that "less is more"...


Cheers!

Ross


#64 daver328

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Posted 22 December 2013 - 02:48 AM

Just got the Flap/Aileron Lower Gap Seals and Elevator/Rudder Hinge Covers on ...

(Prop is off for rebuild and hub modification ... so no flying yet ... AND still have wing, elevator and vertical fin root fairings to install, and wheel well liners and brake caliper reversal to do ... )

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#65 Hector

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Posted 22 December 2013 - 03:24 AM

I read in a thread on here where guys were successfully using a thin weather stripping from hardware stores. One of those future projects on the list for me ...


It's what I use and it has worked better than the black goo and much nicer with no leaks. Got it from a Home Depot. I can get you stuff when I get home. I'm in south Florida at the moment. Not a drop since I switched,


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#66 daver328

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Posted 22 December 2013 - 03:57 AM

It's what I use and it has worked better than the black goo and much nicer with no leaks. Got it from a Home Depot. I can get you stuff when I get home. I'm in south Florida at the moment. Not a drop since I switched,


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Thanks Hector. Please do post your information. A picture or product name/specifications would save my time and money from the "trial and error" method!
David

#67 jetdriven

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Posted 22 December 2013 - 04:14 AM

Just got the Flap/Aileron Lower Gap Seals and Elevator/Rudder Hinge Covers on ...

(Prop is off for rebuild and hub modification ... so no flying yet ... AND still have wing, elevator and vertical fin root fairings to install, and wheel well liners and brake caliper reversal to do ... )

A tip from someone who just did the dorsal fin and and horizontal tail root fairings. We used flush Avex #4 rivets to fasten the dorsal fin. It makes for a cleaner look. Also, flush rivets on the tail horizontal fairing where it meets the dorsal. And one more thing, a RAMI AV-100 antenna meets the TSO for 121.5 and for 406 ACK ELTs.  If you put it under the dorsal fin now, you can use it with whatever you got now and later on. Then remove the old ELT antenna for some more drag reduction.

 

We also used Avex flush rivets for the wing root fairings. It takes a 120 degree countersink in a micro-stop tool. You can get the avex rivets from Spruce and the countersink from aircraft tool supply.

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#68 healthfx

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Posted 29 December 2013 - 05:04 PM

Here is a very comprehensive article by Richard of Mooneyland.com http://www.mooneylan...r-construction/



#69 Hector

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 06:11 PM

Thanks Hector. Please do post your information. A picture or product name/specifications would save my time and money from the "trial and error" method!


Sorry it took me a while for the pictures but here they are. I purchased the weather stripping at Home Depot and it works quite well as a replacement for the black goo. Make sure you clean off the black goo first. This is peel-and-stick and you can use it full width or cut it right down the middle as needed.

I'll see if I can get some pictures of it as installed.


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Attached Files



#70 daver328

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 07:46 PM

Sorry it took me a while for the pictures but here they are. I purchased the weather stripping at Home Depot and it works quite well as a replacement for the black goo. Make sure you clean off the black goo first. This is peel-and-stick and you can use it full width or cut it right down the middle as needed.

I'll see if I can get some pictures of it as installed.


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Thanks Hector.
David

#71 SkyPilot

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Posted 03 January 2014 - 06:56 AM

Many of us don't use MP to set power. Just assume in my posts (and I'm sure many other folk's posts as well) that my MP is "all I can get". I would never intentionally choke off intake air to my engine in cruise. Throttle is fire walled on take-off and does not get closed again until I need to slow down for approach and landing..

Even if I was flying a carbureted bird, I'd still be WOT from take-off to landing I may try to fiddle with the throttle to get LOP, but I'd likely just lean it to rough and enrich it until it smoothed out...

 

So I've been using book 75% power at 7500'. I'm usually running about 22 to 23 inches of MP depending on temperature. You are running WOT? And do you get TBO doing that? I have read that the engines are good for 2700 rpm all day long but I am getting a little conservative in my old age.



#72 Hank

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Posted 03 January 2014 - 12:00 PM

WOT means full throttle not full RPM. Many people fly LOP at full throttle, choose an RPM for smooth operation and use the red knob to set fuel flow for speed. A common RPM is 2500.
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#73 rob47v

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Posted 03 January 2014 - 03:27 PM

A tip from someone who just did the dorsal fin and and horizontal tail root fairings. We used flush Avex #4 rivets to fasten the dorsal fin. It makes for a cleaner look. Also, flush rivets on the tail horizontal fairing where it meets the dorsal. And one more thing, a RAMI AV-100 antenna meets the TSO for 121.5 and for 406 ACK ELTs.  If you put it under the dorsal fin now, you can use it with whatever you got now and later on. Then remove the old ELT antenna for some more drag reduction.

 

We also used Avex flush rivets for the wing root fairings. It takes a 120 degree countersink in a micro-stop tool. You can get the avex rivets from Spruce and the countersink from aircraft tool supply.

If I might ask on your horizontal root fairing. what is the rivet edge distance? It seams fairly close to the bulkhead rivets? In other words rivet edge distance seams too close which might result in cracking or could result in cracking of the existing      skin? Just asking, been looking at this mod. 



#74 jetdriven

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Posted 03 January 2014 - 07:18 PM

Rivet edge spacing is 1.5 times diameter of rivet. Per the STC you match the rivets to the adjacent ones along the front edge and bottom.
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#75 Skybrd

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Posted 03 January 2014 - 09:03 PM

I have many of the mods with the exception of a one piece belly. They were installed before I got the plane and the speed is good. My former E model was slower and since then the E airplane had an engine change at Lycom in Visalia and the ADF wire antenna was removed. That E is now a fast airplane and can almost keep up with my modified J model. My son ownes it now and likes to run high power settings. The E doesn't have the newer windshield or cowl. Concerning return on investments, I have been considering upgrading my avionics to a Garmin 530. The 201 windshield makes it harder to access the radios. I think its somewhere around 15 K to do the avionics. Not sure the ROI works out.



#76 daver328

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Posted 03 January 2014 - 11:45 PM

I have many of the mods with the exception of a one piece belly. They were installed before I got the plane and the speed is good. My former E model was slower and since then the E airplane had an engine change at Lycom in Visalia and the ADF wire antenna was removed. That E is now a fast airplane and can almost keep up with my modified J model. My son ownes it now and likes to run high power settings. The E doesn't have the newer windshield or cowl. Concerning return on investments, I have been considering upgrading my avionics to a Garmin 530. The 201 windshield makes it harder to access the radios. I think its somewhere around 15 K to do the avionics. Not sure the ROI works out.


You may be correct, but my thinking is that installing relatively in-expensive mods like brake caliper reversal, wheel well liners, LASAR type cowl mod etc. and thus removing parasite drag is an efficient way to speed up the plane and will eventually return the investment in fuel savings in the years to come ... . That's my hope anyway.

Maybe it's not logical at all like I've been making it out to be and I just want to go faster? :-)
David

#77 scottfromiowa

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 02:11 AM

You may be correct, but my thinking is that installing relatively in-expensive mods like brake caliper reversal, wheel well liners, LASAR type cowl mod etc. and thus removing parasite drag is an efficient way to speed up the plane and will eventually return the investment in fuel savings in the years to come ... . That's my hope anyway.
Maybe it's not logical at all like I've been making it out to be and I just want to go faster? :-)


and there is NOTHING wrong with wanting to go fast...er, darn it.
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#78 fantom

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 03:45 PM

and there is NOTHING wrong with wanting to go fast...er, darn it.


So true, but suggesting you're doing those hopefully go faster mods to save money is logic that should be saved for the wife, not us.

We know better :)
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#79 N1395W

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 10:24 PM

I am on my second M20C. The first one I put on every speed mod available and saw the greatest speed increase when I removed the ADF antenna and rigged the controls.

On my current C model, I have installed mods that have multiple benefits or are inexpensive (ie., brake reversal). I installed the flap gap seals for speed and better climb. I installed LASAR cowl closure for speed, better cooling, and looks. I installed the 201 windshield for speed, less noise, and looks. A previous owner had already done the tail mods- sure wish he had hid the ELT antenna for speed and looks.

I picked up a few knots, didn't break the bank or my marriage, and am very happy with the results.
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#80 SkyPilot

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 12:23 PM

Mods or no mods, I'd ensure it's rigged properly if I were you. 10 knots is not a huge deal, but if your stock AC is under performing, it's worth it to get it straightened out; if nothing more than for safety's sake. Your plane should do it's best work between 4K and 8K.  I have a stock F with lousy paint and a "laundry line" from the tail to top of the cockpit (scheduled to be removed soon) and it will do better than 140kts at 12,500ft.  Something is not right with your bird...

 

Good information. I am curious what throttle setting and rpm you are using and at what altitude? I'd like to try the same to compare. I'm gone in Borneo for January but I would like to figure a few things out in February when I get back. I've got a couple of 530 NM trips to experiment with. Usually I use 75% or less power (by the book value)







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