OldGlassMan

This may be here somewhere, but I could not find it. Does anyone have a diagram of the Garwin Starting Vibrator (31-324) used for the Shower of Sparks, or lacking that, does anyone know the value of the capacitor in that box. The cap in mine has failed (electrolyte everywhere), and it looks like it is straight forward to repair it, if we can just determine the value for the cap or even better a part number. It is not readable on the one I have due to the electrolyte and other corrosion.

Does anyone have any experience with replacement of the Alternator Output Filter (Electrolytic Capacitor on the bulkhead just where the power pass-thru is)? This is NOT the RFI capacitor on the alternator, but is the main DC power filter. The parts manual for my '68 G model calls for a Sangamo Part Number, 500-1041-01, but this cap is no longer made. It is a 2400 mfd (uF), 25 volt electrolytic with screw connections. I cannot find an identical capacitor, although I am sure Mooney has superseded the part number and has something they will sell me for six times what it costs from anywhere else.

Everyone be aware that there is a large, organized scam on ebay for Garmin 400 and 500 series avionics. The asking price seems reasonable at $2500 or so in mid-auction time period. But these guys all want you to communicate via email and not using eBay messages. Most of them (I have see about eight of them) want you to "contact" them via email, and you get back an official looking instruction letter from "eBay" that instructs to to use MoneyPak or some other cash transferral method, and not PayPal or a Credit Card. They pull the eBay listing as soon as they get an email. If you check out the email address given on the ad in Google, it will usually be clear that this is a scam. It took only two minutes to decide in my case. I sent them back an email asking for the serial number of the unit, and an address, telephone number for "Parts Tracability".... Never heard another word from them. Be careful out there! RFB

The fuel selector should also be an annual item. A few years back, mine was getting harder and harder to rotate. I had my guy pull it and take it apart -- we found that over the years, dirt and grime from the floor had built up a deposit around the shaft where it went through the floor and also into the valve itself. Some Mouse Milk, some mild solvent, a rag and a little elbow grease removed the deposits, and it worked like new. One word of caution, if you use solvent, do not let it get near the seat seals in the valve, they are rubber, or maybe neoprene, and the solvent can do them harm -- use a Q-tip to keep it on or near the upper shaft area or the upper shaft housing. RFB

Looking for: Mooney Airspeed Safety Switch, (Any model with electric gear). Original part was Dukes 3203-00 on M20G. Any later part number fromM20J and newer acceptable for installation by 337. This part may be found by looking behind the airspeed indicator. It is connected to Pitot System very near the airspeed indicator pitot system connection. Must be functional and no air leaks on case surface. Thanks for looking, RFB

Do y0u still have this? (sorry for the generic language, I copied it from some other inquiries that I have been making. I am sure you know about this part.) Looking for any Mooney Airspeed Safety Switch, (Any model with electric gear). Original part was Dukes 3203-00 on M20G. Any later part number from M20J and newer acceptable for installation by 337. This part may be found by looking behind the airspeed indicator. It is connected to Pitot System very near the airspeed indicator pitot system connection. Aome are in-line to the airspeed indicator, others are off of a "Tee". Must be functional and no air leaks on case surface. Thanks for looking, RFB

Two things. First, most Mooney guys I know rarely climb at Vx or Vy. Most go for a higher speed with 90-110 knots being the most common depending on M20 model. This for better climb visibility and a more comfortable angle for passengers. Doing this pretty much precludes a turn back to the runway if anything goes bang. In my old '68 my own standard is to never do a straight out departure, and to go for an early crosswind turn (400 feet or end of the runway, whichever is later). That puts me in a better position, either with the first 90 completed or downwind, if anything should happen in the first few minutes when forces have just come on the engine and airframe. I like to do this even if the desired course is right in line with the departure runway becasue one turn in the pattern gives me a GPS course intercept of the planned leg at 1000' AGL right over the runway with a very natural place to start a leg time. KBDN does'nt have a tower, so I can even do this IFR prior to calling ATC. In Olympia, the tower used to accomodate the request most of the time, and I rarely had to do anything different.

Probably a 180 Commanche or if not that, them an older Sierra (the faster one). For me, it is bang for the buck, and although I admire the Debbie, the six can engine is just to costly to operate. Lower cost of operation == more flying for me. RFB

Good advice, I would add one other that is probably obvious to most everyone here except those new to Mooneys. DON'T TRY TO SALVAGE A HIGH BOUNCE! The reason is that all M20s tend to be a bit nose heavy with typical landing fuel loads, and low airspeed, and the nose wants to drop after a bounce, it is VERY easy to get the nose wheel first. When that happens, look out, because two things happen: 1> the nose wheel position abruptly changes the direction of the aircraft; and 2> the mains hit a split second later and compress the short travel in the rubber shocks, which then rebound, creating another oscillation inducing bounce with even lower airspeed. I think more Mooneys have died this way than any other, there are plenty of stories. You definitely want all of the airspeed gone before the mains hit.

Me too. Oil analysis has been good since I bought the plane. She was a bit of a hangar queen for two years becasue the seller had lost his medical. He had been using Camguard, and his mechanic had the periodic engine heatup flights and oil checks in the documentaion package. It was a major factor in the decision to take the airplane. Everything I have seen says that if you are using Camguard, then X/C is as good as anything else out there.

Agreed, My avatar may indicate new member, but I was on here earler for almost the entire life of the website. I certainly got much more out of it that anything I might be able to throw in for support. Count me in, whatever you decide.

Ditto, except I used Mouse Milk. Same result, but maybe a different smell (for a while).

If you find one, let me know by PM. I moved here in August, and got my BFR just before moving, just in case. I will need a CFI for my next one. Opps, acutally, I AM a CFI, but not current. Maybe I should look into that!

Bump this one. When I bought my G model, it had a cold starting problem. After much hair pulling, my mechanic and I determined that the manual primer had a leak in the internal seal, so it was not delivering sufficient prime. We discovered it by pumbing excessiverly (up to ten strokes "full throttle"), which worked around the problem. I replaced the carburetor on the next annual -- and no more problems. You can drop the carburator slightly without disconnecting the controls. If you don't see a strong up-jet of fuel from the top of the carb when the throttle is pumped, bngo that is the problem.

Bump the Concorde option. Mine has been in for two years now. No service required, and extra cranking power over my old Gill.