47U

Heather is still taking orders… I signed up for one. Even if my current one is still airworthy in 10 or 12 years when I decide to hang it up and put 47U on the market, having a spare intake duct should be a huge selling point.

Oscar… LASAR website says the STC is limited to open baffles (no doghouse), 1967 and later E / F models. https://lasar.com/stc-kits/laskit126

Check with LASAR. Gather up the part numbers and give Heather a call. You might check their website to see if they are in stock. They won’t be cheap, however. About 15 years ago I replaced a handful of gear bushings and they were .3 amu. But, it fixed the main gear from fully retracting and hanging an inch below the wheel well opening. If you call around other MSCs might have better prices. And, you can type the part number into the search window on controller.com and one of the parts warehouses might have bushings in surplus stock.

I would think a loooong time, if kept in an air tight bag with desiccant in a dark closet in your house, not the hangar. That would be my plan. Then, after I’ve passed on, my heirs will find it, wonder what it is, not realize its value, and toss it in the bin. And declare me a hoarder. I replaced my intake duct in 2010. LASAR had it in stock for just over .3 amu. I’m contemplating ordering one for the future, but mine is in such good shape I’m debating on maybe waiting for the next round. I had to do one small repair where I had allowed the carb air duct to touch the intake duct. It had a pea sized chafe mark on top of one of the reinforcing wires. I repaired it with some fiberglass cloth and high-temp black RTV. That was several years ago and the repair is stable. If I had an E or F, I think I’d order one, regardless. They appear to be subject to more wear than the B/C/D/G models.

Part of the problem here is that Mooney used Stratoflex 193 hose, which isn’t rated for fluid. It rated for low pressure air/vacuum. My friends G model had a puddle of 5606 on the floor of his hangar one day last summer when this hose failed at an adel clamp. I was surprised it was a 193 hose because when I installed new hoses in my ‘63C, this hose was Stratoflex 111, rated for hydraulic fluid. Someone before me had upgraded the hose from 193 to 111. I initially thought someone had installed the wrong hose in my friends G model, until I looked up the part number. Surprise, surprise. I had some -6 193 hose in work order residue so that’s was we replaced his failed hose with. As for me, I’m sticking with my 111 hose.

That’s not right for you to be picking on poor Mooney like that. April fools day, or not. I’ll bet AI wrote it.

I had one of those. There’s a wire ‘bale’ welded inside the end of the exhaust pipe that goes into the muffler. Photo credit to Wag-Aero.

I’m NOT an expert. But I think it might be better to sell it for the core value. I don’t know what the shelf life is on a pump sitting in box. Five years? Ten years? In a hot hangar in Fort Worth (or Sacramento)? I think I’d rather install a pump either new manufacture, or with a short time elapsed on the shelf since overhaul. My opinion might be biased, though. The last airframe I worked on in the Air Force, it wasn’t uncommon to go into phase inspection with over a hundred time changes scheduled. And yes, sometimes we had mx induced failures.

I have this part, if it helps. PN 600028-505.

Your IA might have incorrect information. I called Knisley a few weeks ago to inquire about a modification to my muffler shroud. A person who works for AWI in Minneapolis answered the phone. He was attentive to my questions. If you call the old Knisley phone number, your call should be forwarded to AWI. I can PM you an email address to the AWI rep I talked to, if you wish. Knisley - (800) 522-6990 AWI - (800) 597-4315 Edit: Sooooooo… AWI is a subsidiary of Hartzell. Learn something new everyday (I hope). Thanks Rich!

If you’re looking for approved methods and practices, the military tech orders can be a good source. The 01-1A-8 is particularly useful for guidance on structures and hardware. https://vdocuments.site/navair-01-1a-8-structural-hardware.html?page=1

I’m guessing the engine driven fuel pump. How old is it? I read on the RV forum that Lycoming recommends a time-change at the 10 year mark. I’m not sure if any of us CBs are actually doing that. I replaced my (‘63C) engine driven fuel pump three years ago when I was experiencing some fuel pressure/flow fluctuations. That turned out to be a cracked flare on the hardline between the gascolator and the elbow in the pilot’s footwell. The pump is sitting on the shelf in the hangar… I could send it to you for troubleshooting purposes. IF you wanted to go through that much pain to install it, then replace it with a new/overhauled pump if the problem is with your existing pump. It’s really not a fun job. Might be prudent to check how old your hoses are, too, just because you’re in there. If you’re paying shop-rate to do this work, you might be money ahead to just install a new/overhauled pump to begin with. Hopefully someone with more experience than me will chime in with a better idea.

There was as Piper Pacer with a glider hook two hangar rows over from me… looks pretty simple.

A valid consideration… I certainly discussed this mod with my IA before I went forward. When working with my IA, it’s better to ask for permission rather than forgiveness.

I didn’t have room for the rocker switch ignition panel, so I installed two DPDT mil-spec toggle switches. I put them on top of the radio stack, where nothing else fits. I moved the ship’s Master switch and the ELT panel there, too. I adopted a mag switch schematic I found on a RV’r website. Both mag switches in the ‘up’ position grounds the right mag and energizes the starter solenoid. The left mag (SureFly) is hot. When the engine starts release the switches, they’re spring loaded back to ‘center’ and both mags are hot. Inflight mag checks are a piece of cake. No more after-fire from not moving the key quickly enough with SureFly latency on the left mag. Shut down is normal… pull the mixture, when the engine stops both switches in the ‘down’ position grounds both mags. After shutdown, I do have to double/triple check that the mags are cold, both switches down. But, there’s virtually no chance of inadvertent starter actuation because both toggle switches have to be ‘up’ to complete the starter circuit.