macosxuser

I got one from Alan, so Mooney Man can have Brian’s.

Sweet, done. Paypal or Venmo? Shipping to 93561?

Hi guys, does anyone that’s done an engine monitor upgrade to their C model have their old Manifold Pressure/Fuel Pressure combo gauge for sale? I need one for my 180HP converted Swift.

Mine is similar to yours, I just finished the major installation stuff, doing a couple wiring fixes, and tying everything up. This is a interim panel until I do a full Hendricks with a JPI900 or JPI930. PS8000BT GNS480 KX155/GS KN64 Sandel SN3308 G5 Attitude

Wonder why the E is less than the F? Seems punitive as well.

I know that only half of the users will care, but very quietly (it seems to me anyway) Continental Motors Titan division has been issued a PMA for angle valve cylinders. It took a few minutes of googling to verify, but here is to hoping that the ridiculously high cylinder prices are a thing of the past! http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:dxTEDvyVBXQJ:continentalmotors.aero/xPublications/xService%20Bulletins/PDFS/SIL001/+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

I don't see what the problem would be with 25"/2500RPM. It's an approved power setting for the O-360 Lyc. I run my E at 27"/2550rpm when I'm trying to get somewhere, that puts me in the middle of the yellow at 3000' DA. To gain some speed, overshoot your cruising altitude by 100-200' and then descend back down onto it. Brings the airplane up onto 'step'. In smooth air, can be good for 5-10mph.

I'm working on the drivers side sub panel of my E right now. Quite a few options out there for Mooney's. I like http://www.hendricksmfg.com/panels.html the best for mine so far. Good price too. For now I'm doing my own fab work to save money. I'm going to do the full panel when I get an engine monitor.

I'm keeping quiet for the most part about Mooney "experts" because I know a few guys that work on a bunch of Mooney's that I wouldn't trust to wax mine. I got to say though, no problem with a good honest mechanic if he knows what he is getting into (he knows he will have to learn) and doesn't charge you for his learning curve. There are many times where I bill 1 hour for every 3 I work because I have to educate myself of a specific problem. If I think that the knowledge I gain will pay dividends on future work, I have no problem taking the time hit if the owner is willing to let me do it. That is how experience is gained. Same reason I pay my apprentices $15/hr and charge the customer $75, because I can only bill for one out of every 4 hours they work

Ever look at the D'Shannon baffle kits for Beech? The top cowlings have a fiberglass piece that gets added to the ears of the cowling. These have a lip in them that the baffle seal rests in to create a better seal. Here is a picture, you can see the lip in the top of the picture.

I like having the overhaul done, and I like it being at a shop I trust. I've done 2 in the last 3 years. I am a mechanic, so do the R&R myself. The only other option for me would be an overhauller I trust, or a factory engine.

Two ways. Breaking the rules, or determining through engineering that the limitation is based on something else (stress during retraction) then proving that to the FAA and getting your AFM revised to add an extension and extended speed limitation.

And this is what I'm getting at. From everything I've seen, there is NOTHING different about the E to the J except the actual mechanical actuator itself. The system does not need to be modified, the gear doors do not need to be changed, nothing. I would even venture a guess that the Ovation and up 160mph gear speeds would work in a J if the motor and trans was changed to match, but that is just speculation, as I have never had anything newer than a 80's 252 in for annual. $4k for speed brakes, or a 337 to add VLO (Extension) and VLE speeds to the airplane...? Seems like it might be worth the paperwork exercise.

That 30 hrs may include disassembling the interior, REMOVING and replacing transponder wiring, replacing antennas and antenna wire (Garmin likely specs RG400 or RG142 for the new antenna wire), and reinstalling everything. Yeah, almost anyone can chop wires and pull a tray, but some shops won't leave the old stuff in there to fester. I know I much prefer working on a panel that has only active wires in it over the ones with remnants of 3 avionics installations zip tied all over the place. Just saying. I know I would expect to pay about 3-4k for that install, and would charge that if I was doing it for a customer.

Sounds like a fueling issue to me. I would second the Flow Divider check to start.