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Ragsf15e

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Ragsf15e last won the day on March 8

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington State
  • Reg #
    N4044N
  • Model
    1968 M20F

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  1. They’re about $135 each. I use them. Engine runs great! But maybe I shouldn’t use them? Heck I dont know, but it’s hard to change away from a good thing.
  2. A low(ish) pattern, overshooting final, heavyweight, unexpected return, new owner, distraction from wind/noise… there are lots of things stacked against them. None of them should be fatal by themselves or even together, but they do increase the risk.
  3. It seems like it’s solid metal 1” open with no hinge at cruise speed. I had 3 hours to play with it. You can neither open it or close it, although I only had my interior pull strap to pull on, so I don’t think I pulled so hard that id separate that from the door panel.
  4. Are the ADSB altitudes usually pretty accurate? I wonder what else was going on, but typically you’d want to get higher than 700’. He was abeam the numbers at like 400-500’. That can make your pattern look wide enough when it’s not. Couple that with low airspeed, distraction, and find yourself in a tight turn to final. Probably heavy too since he just took off. I had a pilot induced door failure once as well. Didn’t get the top latched before takeoff. I was at mgw and high DA. Decided to slow to 100, open and fully close… it was impossible to open the door more than 1” or close it fully. I didn’t try slower or slipping based on my situation. Considered landing but didn’t like the weight, DA, etc. climbed up to 10,000 and flew 3 hours to my destination (yes it was annoying, luckily no pax). It was a non event to land, but the door did pop open on landing. Could have been his baggage door… that would be even more distracting based on other people’s descriptions.
  5. It does seem to be sort of “captive” due to the curvature of the baggage door. Mine was approximately 2.5 inches out of the hinge, but it didn’t appear that it could easily get farther due to the curvature of the baggage door opening. The part of the hinge without wire was noticeably loose though. I guess I’ll think about crimping the last loop, but I suspect there’ll be some reason that’s a bad idea too… probably right after I do it.
  6. Never thought I’d learn so much about the handling qualities of shopping carts on MooneySpace!
  7. I guess I just think adjusting the heat/cold system so it works is pretty much as easy as leaving it broke and shoving sponges instead. I live somewhere real cold and I haven’t had an issue with too much cold or not enough heat.
  8. I agree. I was trying to think of a nice way to say that the air/heat system is already cheap and easy to maintain. No need to go CB on it. Also, while I don’t want to lose my CB card, I don’t like the idea of shoving sponges into air intakes…
  9. Ha! I was going to say the opposite end. Either way, having the over center work properly makes all the difference. Mine required adjustment near the actual ram door and access was difficult but possible through the pilot side cowl.
  10. Not that many Ovations/Eagles with FIKI for sale. I wonder if there just weren’t that many built? Those can have a great UL even with tks.
  11. I was almost thinking it should be slightly longer than needed and the ends bent over so it couldn’t pull through. I’ll be keeping a closer eye on it for now and see how much it migrates.
  12. Rainy day, was out at the hangar cleaning the airplane and saw something that didn’t look right. I was cleaning the top near the baggage door and the hinge looked loose. Maybe the last 3 or 4 hinges weren’t exactly lined up. Went around and looked from the other side and found a good few inches of the wire pulled through. Not sure how that happens, and I’m guessing door departure wasn’t imminent, but it didn’t feel good. I got it pushed back in and will have to keep an eye on it.
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